Wicked awesome! (might as well talk like a Bostonian) I could have pieced it together from the manuals, but having the diameters is a real help!
Thanks.
Steve
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
I pieced it together mostly from memory but then revised it with the service manuals, parts catalogs, and quick trips out to my car.
Metric hose can be hard to find, but I think these substitutions ought to do okay (especially if you use silicone since it's very flexible and stretchy):
3.5mm <-> 1/8"
4mm <-> 5/32"
5.5mm <-> 7/32"
7.5mm <-> 1/4" or 5/16"
10mm <-> 3/8" (though, since the brake booster hose needs a check valve, you may as well use an OEM hose)
I'd try to keep the boost control hoses as close as possible to stock diameter and length so the ECU's calibration remains correct.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
The thing is, most of the stock hoses are vulcanized, so knowing their stock lengths won't necessarily be useful.
The next person to replace all the hoses with bulk hose can try to give us the lengths they used that worked without kinking or getting in the way of other stuff; I can add them to the diagram.
If you can afford it, I think you should consider buying some or all of the stock hoses new.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
I need to do nearly all the hoses so I'll try to measure everything out. Engine is progressing slowly, though. Damn jobless recovery!
Steve
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
I had been running with hoses of approximately the right diameter but without the restrictor in the hose between the wastegate control solenoid and the resonator. Boost control didn't seem that precise; it seemed like it would spike a bit and vary in different gears or at different engine speeds. I tried cleaning out the solenoid and it helped a little, but...
Today I put a restrictor in (I drilled a 5/64" hole in a little piece of steel rod I had) and it really cleaned up the boost control a lot.
So anyone who has replaced their vacuum hoses but didn't notice the restrictor, I recommend replacing it. I would imagine that if you left out the union fitting in between the solenoid and compressor outlet it might show similar symptoms.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
I recently installed a DNA MBC. I got rid of the stock hose and replaced them with silicon. my boost was all over the place virtually uncontrollable
good thing i didnt throw away the restrictor i put it back in and wow 12psi
solid thanks!!!!
Proud owner of a 1991 Silver 5MT
Gold wrx wheels,Straight Exhaust, DNA Boost Controler 12 Psi, Ngk's, De-Snorked, Carbon fiber hood scoop in the werks
1991 White 5MT(Sold to Friend), AKA BINFORD
Huh, that's kind of odd... I would expect most MBCs to work best with simple, short, unrestricted tubing. You're not running your MBC along with the factory boost control, are you?
That's cool that it's behaving how you want though. :)
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
I also noticed that Adam plugged the inlet for the PCV at the corner of the right angle of the inlet boot. Then there's a single inlet from the PCV valve into the bottom of the block. No T in that section.
What would this do to the operation of the PCV system?
I'm not sure; I don't fully understand the PCV system.
My guess, though, is that you're not getting positive crankcase ventilation when you're on boost. It looks like that fitting is where crankcase vapors get sucked in by the partial vacuum at the compressor inlet when manifold vacuum is absent.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
I just updated the diagram. There were two errors before -- the canister's main purge line was indicated to be on the wrong fitting, and the brake booster hose was labeled as 10mm rather than the 11/32" it actually is.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
It would be nice to have a BOM for these hoses too. If someone had a scanner and was so inclined they could scan some pages out of the factory service manual or Haines. If this has been done I apologize.
By bill of materials, you mean a price for each of the part numbers? Cuz the service manuals don't have them.
Or do you mean lengths, so you can use bulk hose to replace them? Part of the problem is that you kind of have to reroute them if you don't use premolded hose.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212