Well, after a few months of playing around rebuilding my bike and getting it running like a peach, what do you know, the bloody knock sensor on the car plays up . Ive replaced it recently (£93!!!!!!!) and its definately the revised one but for no reasonable explanation the bloody thing has started flashing codes at me again. Has anyone got ANY ideas why on earth the bloody thing is so unreliable or any potential cures for it. Must point out as well that the light NEVER comes on when the cars boosting, only when im pottering around.
Please help as the cars bloody good fun given the space to thrash it in (and the money for petrol!) but Itll have to go if it keeps having hissy fits at me for no aparent reason.
If only I hadnt bought the bike, this would feel fast :P
Hmm.. It's possible that the sensor isn't making good contact with the block or that there's a short in the wire somewhere.
When you replaced it, did you clean off the block underneath it with sandpaper and such?
You might try taking a continuity testor and checking to see if continuity between the knock sensor harness and the ECU pin goes away when you jiggle things around.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
When you say that the sensor flips a cel when your putting around, is it only when your sitting still, or will it do it when your driving conservatively as well?
91 Pearl White Sport Sedan
04 Java Black Pearl Forester XT
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87 Grey GL-10 Sedan (so long old buddy) - donated
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I did clean the mating face for the sensor on the block when I refitted it as this worked once or twice before on the old sensor. Im not so worried about the wiring as its been a few months since i fitted the sensor and no worries till now. Also the way it used to play up was sort of similar but on a smaller time scale, ie fine for a week then knackered, off it comes, clean-up, put it back on and hey presto, no problem, till the next week!
Once it starts to come on it tends to come on on either a slightly trailing throttle or slightly on throttle, although it will just do it all over the place quite happily! Thinking about it a bit more though, it does tend to come back (after an ECU reset) just after ive been thrashing it a bit and gone into zombie mode following other cars (which is exactly when I dont need it to play up as the map for the knock sensor being knackered is bloody awefull, jerky, fitty, on/off boost here there and everywhere and especially when I want to overtake the other zombies).
If only I hadnt bought the bike, this would feel fast :P
Lol, could be
Think I may have found the problem, THERES NO BLOODY OIL IN IT! Now ive just gotta work out if the leaks comming from the turbo or just from near it .
If only I hadnt bought the bike, this would feel fast :P
To let you know why I am changing the knock is that every time...no exception...When the engine gets worm the cel is comming on giving me the 22 code...so knock. I kept checking the oil but it never seemed low. But yesterday ....and you know the story if you read the thread.
Is it possible that we are in the same situation???[/url]
93 Legacy EJ22T Station Wagon (4EAT-unfortunately)
God gave us cars so we can enjoy life faster!!!
I think I can answer this one, you have a EJ20t right? you've now replaced your knock sensor and its working correctly, the EJ20t heads from the early legacy's/libertys have terrible oil galleries in the heads, the oil finds it hard to get to the lifters, which in turn begin to tap, hence setting off your knock sensor. I got totally frustrated with it and went out and bought myself a '94 wrx halfcut and swapped the motor, because the only other fix was to swap the heads to '94 heads, which meant you need to swap pistons, and modify the ECU..... too much $$$$ it was easier and cheaper to buy a new motor.
MY02 B4 Liberty, 2 1/2" off the primary with splitter, 3" off the secondary, 3" the rest of the way, completely stainless, k&n filter, ECUtek 3, 500HP walbro, 173kw@all4