i just got brembo rotors and pads instaled and when i test drove it the abs light came on. when we went to put it on a the lift the light went off so i just took it home. on the way it turned on again and it wont go off or should i say the abs wont turn on. it did go off the next day but once i hit a bump it came back on again. what could be causing this. the guy at the shop told me to bring it back if i had any problems but i want to see if i can solve this first.
while im at it how do you wire up a abs cut off swich? im getting ready for next years race season.
abs light
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
-
LaureltheQueen
- Spelling Nazi
- Posts: 4644
- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 7:14 am
- Location: Lynnwood, WA
- Contact:
-
vrg3
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
Read the ABS code.
Next time the light comes on, pull over but don't shut off the engine. Go around to the passenger side, kneel on the ground next to the car, and crane your neck to look underneath the passenger seat.
If you feel around with your fingers you should be able to find a little flap in the carpet on the outboard side. Flip the flap out, exposing what's underneath (you'll probably have to do this by feel). Behind the flap is a red LED that the ABS computer flashes codes through. A white piece of paper or something will help reflect the LED's light better than the car's carpeting.
If the LED is flashing, wait for it to stop since you're in the middle of a code. Then count the flashes until it stops. That's the trouble code. If there are multiple codes it will flash them one after the other with short breaks in between.
These are what the codes mean:
0 (no flashing at all) - Computer's not getting power
1 - Left front solenoid
2 - Right front solenoid
3 - Right rear solenoid
4 - Left rear solenoid
5 - Left front sensor
6 - Right front sensor
7 - Right rear sensor
8 - Left rear sensor
9 - Pump
10 - Valve
16 - G-sensor or other unidentified problem
Chances are you either whacked a sensor out of alignment or possibly damaged one of the tone rings like Laurel said.
The simplest way to cut off ABS if you don't need to do it on the fly is to just pull out one of the ABS fuses. The big red one underhood is easy to access. If you want a switch, though, you just need the switch to cut power to any of the ABS fuses.
Next time the light comes on, pull over but don't shut off the engine. Go around to the passenger side, kneel on the ground next to the car, and crane your neck to look underneath the passenger seat.
If you feel around with your fingers you should be able to find a little flap in the carpet on the outboard side. Flip the flap out, exposing what's underneath (you'll probably have to do this by feel). Behind the flap is a red LED that the ABS computer flashes codes through. A white piece of paper or something will help reflect the LED's light better than the car's carpeting.
If the LED is flashing, wait for it to stop since you're in the middle of a code. Then count the flashes until it stops. That's the trouble code. If there are multiple codes it will flash them one after the other with short breaks in between.
These are what the codes mean:
0 (no flashing at all) - Computer's not getting power
1 - Left front solenoid
2 - Right front solenoid
3 - Right rear solenoid
4 - Left rear solenoid
5 - Left front sensor
6 - Right front sensor
7 - Right rear sensor
8 - Left rear sensor
9 - Pump
10 - Valve
16 - G-sensor or other unidentified problem
Chances are you either whacked a sensor out of alignment or possibly damaged one of the tone rings like Laurel said.
The simplest way to cut off ABS if you don't need to do it on the fly is to just pull out one of the ABS fuses. The big red one underhood is easy to access. If you want a switch, though, you just need the switch to cut power to any of the ABS fuses.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
That's what that light is!!
My abs light came on after some..err...spirited driving in a parking lot, and would come on while driving all the time. Also, the pump would run for a while after the engine shut off.
Never read the codes, because it stopped doing it like a week later and I've never had a problem since, even when I took it to the track...
My abs light came on after some..err...spirited driving in a parking lot, and would come on while driving all the time. Also, the pump would run for a while after the engine shut off.
Never read the codes, because it stopped doing it like a week later and I've never had a problem since, even when I took it to the track...
dirt-covered 91 SS prorally
pat richard roll cage, DMS 50mm, stickers...
SOLD :(
99 impreza RS
ver. 7 sti swap, ver. 6 RA suspension, JDM bodywork, rotated GT28rs
pat richard roll cage, DMS 50mm, stickers...
SOLD :(
99 impreza RS
ver. 7 sti swap, ver. 6 RA suspension, JDM bodywork, rotated GT28rs
-
vrg3
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
The valve inside the hydraulic unit.
The hydraulic unit itself isn't field-serviceable as far as I know, so if your valve is malfunctioning you pretty much have to replace the whole hydraulic unit.
However, even if you have that code it's possible your valve is okay. It's possible that the problem is somewhere in the wiring. Under the black plastic cover next to the hydraulic unit are the valve and motor relays. The valve relay is the one with 5 pins. You should check the relay for proper operation and replace it if it's malfunctioning (I believe you can use any Bosch-style SPDT automotive relay).
The problem could also be in the wiring between the computer under the passenger seat and the valve relay. If you need me to dig up some info on the wiring let me know.
The hydraulic unit itself isn't field-serviceable as far as I know, so if your valve is malfunctioning you pretty much have to replace the whole hydraulic unit.
However, even if you have that code it's possible your valve is okay. It's possible that the problem is somewhere in the wiring. Under the black plastic cover next to the hydraulic unit are the valve and motor relays. The valve relay is the one with 5 pins. You should check the relay for proper operation and replace it if it's malfunctioning (I believe you can use any Bosch-style SPDT automotive relay).
The problem could also be in the wiring between the computer under the passenger seat and the valve relay. If you need me to dig up some info on the wiring let me know.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212