Throttle body servicing
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- quasi-mod-o
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Throttle body servicing
If you'll recall my jerky throttle thread here, I said my car would jerk under the most gradual throttle application.
I thought about it some more and remembered that my throttle-body stopscrew (the one set from the factory that you're never supposed to touch) is still waaaay off on my TB when I was a dumb kid and decided to play with it. I tightened it so much that I broke the head off of the screw, and the remainder is still sitting in there, way too tight.
I theorize then, that there is a possible overlap or delay between the IAC valve closing and the engine receiving the air from the TB, since the ECU has now altered the IAC valve's duty cycle to compensate for it.
My question then: Is there a way I could remove the throttle body, do a thorough cleaning of it while it's off, then take it to a machine shop, perhaps, and have them bench test it for the factory flow rate at idle, then put a new screw in there tightened to the proper setting, and then swear Scout's honor that I won't touch it again?
I thought about it some more and remembered that my throttle-body stopscrew (the one set from the factory that you're never supposed to touch) is still waaaay off on my TB when I was a dumb kid and decided to play with it. I tightened it so much that I broke the head off of the screw, and the remainder is still sitting in there, way too tight.
I theorize then, that there is a possible overlap or delay between the IAC valve closing and the engine receiving the air from the TB, since the ECU has now altered the IAC valve's duty cycle to compensate for it.
My question then: Is there a way I could remove the throttle body, do a thorough cleaning of it while it's off, then take it to a machine shop, perhaps, and have them bench test it for the factory flow rate at idle, then put a new screw in there tightened to the proper setting, and then swear Scout's honor that I won't touch it again?
You really can't replace that sealent that's in the TB.
You're just better off getting a used one. I've got a few laying around I think......There's a guy on the USMB that could probably get you one really cheap too.
Would it fix your bucking problem.....ehh....I'm not so sure.
You're just better off getting a used one. I've got a few laying around I think......There's a guy on the USMB that could probably get you one really cheap too.
Would it fix your bucking problem.....ehh....I'm not so sure.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- quasi-mod-o
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yup...what mk said.mTk wrote:He means the black goo stuff that goes around the throttle plate. There is a thread about it.
MK
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- quasi-mod-o
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- Vikash
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I think your theory sounds plausible. The adaptive idle control system was meant to work around changes in the engine's volumetric efficiency and stuff like that, not to work around miscalibrated throttle bodies or IAC valves. Subaru's official position is that if you modify the calibration you have to replace the part.
A problem with trying to have your throttle body set back to factory specifications is that nobody really knows what the factory specs are.
Also, the amount you'd pay just to have access to a flow bench for the necessary period of time would probably be about the same amount you'd pay for a used throttle body that has never been tampered with.
So, I agree with Josh -- the best way to go would probably be to get a used good throttle body. Get one with the TPS still installed intact so you don't have to go through the process of calibrating the idle switch, too.
A new throttle body gasket is part number 16175AA150 and should only cost a couple of bucks.
A problem with trying to have your throttle body set back to factory specifications is that nobody really knows what the factory specs are.
Also, the amount you'd pay just to have access to a flow bench for the necessary period of time would probably be about the same amount you'd pay for a used throttle body that has never been tampered with.
So, I agree with Josh -- the best way to go would probably be to get a used good throttle body. Get one with the TPS still installed intact so you don't have to go through the process of calibrating the idle switch, too.
A new throttle body gasket is part number 16175AA150 and should only cost a couple of bucks.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- quasi-mod-o
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This has not been brought up yet, so I assume it's false reasoning. But is a throttle body set from the factory independently of the engine, or is it set depending on that particular engine's specs? In other words, could a throttle body be misadjusted when installed on a different engine?
I guess I'll just hafta find a good throttle body with factory-set TPS and stopscrew...
Hmmm, as the saying goes, when you replace, upgrade. Does an EJ22T TB have any distinct advantages over an N/A?
Thanks for the help guys!
I guess I'll just hafta find a good throttle body with factory-set TPS and stopscrew...
Hmmm, as the saying goes, when you replace, upgrade. Does an EJ22T TB have any distinct advantages over an N/A?

Thanks for the help guys!
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- Vikash
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I believe the throttle body is calibrated independently of the engine; otherwise, how could Subaru sell you a replacement throttle body after you've tampered with your factory one?
The turbo and non-turbo throttle bodies are the same.
The turbo and non-turbo throttle bodies are the same.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- quasi-mod-o
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Just use the gasket.
You may want to check the tps.....for its idle switch and make sure it's working properly.
You may want to check the tps.....for its idle switch and make sure it's working properly.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
-
- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 6000
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 7:06 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
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- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 6000
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 7:06 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
This is exactly what was happening...vrg3 wrote:I think your theory sounds plausible. The adaptive idle control system was meant to work around changes in the engine's volumetric efficiency and stuff like that, not to work around miscalibrated throttle bodies or IAC valves.
I found time to swap throttle bodies (delay at the dealer on ordering the gasket

And the whole thing cost me $20
