Found Metal In Oil

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 6:11 am

what's a leakdown test?

compression test from the shop came back with the exact same compression in all 4 cylinders

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 6:35 am

A leak down test (didn't I just post this somewhere?) is when they pressurize the cylinder to best determine the condition of each. By seeing if or where the air leaks from they can tell if the rings are worn or if the exhaust or intake valves have a problem as well as a bad HG. In this case, I wonder if there isn't and ring problem. If the compression is good all around, you're likely OK and maybe the leak down is unecessary. As others have said, see if the particles are ferrous-based. If they stick to a magnet, that's bad. If they don't, it won't be as bad. Does it run smooth and strong? If the particles are aluminum I wonder if they could be from the outer cam bearings.

Steve

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 6:51 am

I've done a leakdown test. Just called it a cylinder leakage test.. never connected the 2. doh.

The engine runs very strong, i occasionally have a low idle, and the engine will get a very little rough during that, but it'll settle out if i blip the throttle usually.

still havent done the magnet test...

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:38 pm

What part of the motor is ferromagnetic? I was under the impression that aluminum made up most of the block and heads, and the bearings were mostly bronze.

Is it the valves that are steel?

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 6:12 am

Rings, cylinder liners, crank, rods, cams. The valves may be stainless or something so wouldn't be magnetic (or only marginally so depending on the alloy).

Steve

QuickDrive · Post by **QuickDrive** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 2:10 pm

I recently changed my oil. 5000km since last change.

Black as black can be Mobil 1 high mileage formula, and I had to jam a screw driver in to the filter to get it off. No metal bits, shavings or the like.

I didn't think it would be that tight... so I didn't bother buying a filter wrench...

I did however forget to put a washer back on, which I didn't see fall into the pan when I took out the drain plug.... Is that bad? There are no leaks... and I kept it for when I change the oil again... but I shouldn't be a problem eh?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 2:29 pm

Steve - Oh, yeah, of course...

Laurel, it might be a good idea to send a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. They measure, among other things, how much of each of a host of metals is present, and can give you a Subaru-specific explanation of your results.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 2:45 pm

Quick - Did you install the oil filter last time? Sometimes third parties who lack pride of ownership overtighten filters when installing them, or fail to properly lubricate the gasket before installation.

Without the drain plug crush washer, you don't reliably get a good seal between the drain plug and the oil pan. You also don't get the locking effect of the washer.

I think a lot of people that either leave out or reuse the gasket and say they've never had a problem are torquing down really hard, deforming the oil pan enough to seal. Did you have to tighten the plug a lot? The torque spec is just 33 ft-lbs and it should arrive progressively.

Sometimes the washer sticks to the drain plug, and can be hard to see since it's crushed flat.

Even if it's leaking a little, you could just keep an eye on your oil level and top it off as needed until the next change.

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 7:52 pm

I am one of those that has never replaced the drainplug washer. It has never leaked, and i have had no other problems.

MK

123c · Post by **123c** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 8:11 pm

You can pick up a washer at the hardware store for like $.50 that will do the job.

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 7:36 am

I think I'll change my oil tomorrow. I've got a case of Castrol GTX left I think. The stabbing a hole in the filter is a really good idea actually.

eastbaysubaru · Post by **eastbaysubaru** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 5:03 pm

I usually only stab the filter after draining the oil pan. This way, it doesn't spill all over you when you remove the filter

As long as you're doing the oil changes yourself, you should be able to get the filter off by hand (with a lot of force, and rubber gloves). It really shouldn't be on there too tight.

-Brian

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 5:54 pm

and if it is, you know what you need to do.

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 7:56 pm

Was that a shameless plug for the J-Team, Hardy?

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 7:59 pm

nope
just gotta man up

petridish38 · Post by **petridish38** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 11:45 pm

Get a cheap strap wrench, get it loose, then give it a good fast spin and run.....

Andrew

NemesisEJ22t · Post by **NemesisEJ22t** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 7:58 am

From the pictures it seems as though the metal isn't very shiny, is it just the pic, or does it look like that? Rounded metal doesn't sound like something that would be caused by a oil film type bearing (rod, crank bearing), it is usually jagged and "flaky" in appearance. You would probably be hearing sounds if it were something seriously wrong. Even when my Celica's bearing went, there was a decent amount of warning (read: metal on metal sounds) and very small metal flakes that almost looked like dust in the oil. I wouldn't worry about it until you change the oil again. If there still there, then i would start saving money and go hunting for the cause.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 8:22 am

i get a clicky sound like my hydraulic valve lash adjusters, even though i have enough oil, but it only happens occasionally(couple times a week) and seems to go away after a few minutes of driving

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 8:45 am

probably air in them then, that's when they really click. You hear it more when there's less oil because obviously not enough oil lets air in.

NemesisEJ22t · Post by **NemesisEJ22t** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 7:09 pm

Yeah, that doesn't sound like bad bearings at least as i know them. My Celica would click badly whenever the the throttle plate opened slightly, but be fairly quiet when idling.

elkaboom · Post by **elkaboom** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 11:20 pm

Lifter noise is probably one of the most commonly reported complaints about any older Subaru motor. Most boards are literally, littered, with threads regarding that particular complaint.
It's really nothing to get excited about though.
My car has been been ticking away for several thousand miles (no noticable loss of power or performance btw)...
I recently Seafoamed (used the brake booster vacuum line this time -best way to do it, PERIOD!) the engine (still clacked), changed the oil, and recently (like 3 days ago) poured a pint of Seafoam into the crankcase, put in a bottle of Redline fuel system additive and drove the living Hell out of it for 75 miles -extended high speed ihghway cruise at 85-100mph.
Still clacks.
My next experiment is going to be oil change with 20W50 and a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil for 3k then change to Mobile 1 synthetic.
Beyond that, I may need to physically bleed the lifters...
Hmm... this thread is derailing.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:30 am

I used Sea Foam in tank and through the PCV and haven't had lifter ticking in thousands of miles. I use 15W 50 Mobil 1. My gas sender did coincidentally (?) die soon after, though.

Piston detonation could melt off round pieces, but they wouldn't end up in the crankcase. I don't think that's a likely issue anyway.

Steve

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Found Metal In Oil