I just purchased a WRX Helix bellmouth downpipe, 3" the whole way, but since it's for a WRX the 02 bung is way down at the bottom of the pipe.
I"m not sure if I should extend the wiring through the car and down to the bottom of the pipe (keeping the wires insid the car till around the handbrake maybe?
Or plug that one and put a hole in the nice stainless steel up around the opening...
THoughts on if the 02 sensorn won't like it that far down?
I've got mine sitting at the bottom of the downpipe. No problems so far. I'm actually seeing the best gas mileage I've ever got out of this car, but that could be just from the new sensor.
"That shouldn't be a problem, since I do regularly visit the realm of subatmospheric manifold pressures." -- vrg3
You know what I'd do, go to the yard, and snip the connector for the o2 sensor, both parts, with as much extra wiring that you need for it, and the heat shielding that's on it then solder the wires together , and just use that as an adapter
Rio Red 90 Legacy LS AWD 174k
Liquid Silver 92 SVX LS-L 88k
[url=http://folding.amdmbpond.com/FoldingForOurFuture.html]Do you fold?[/url]
I'm on First and First. How can the same street intersect with itself? I must be at the nexus of the universe.
I plugged the rear hole and added a sensor bung in the stock location. I did it on the underside of the bellmouth, so it's not an eye sore or anything. The guy i go to does EXCELLENT welds.
THAWA wrote:You know what I'd do, go to the yard, and snip the connector for the o2 sensor, both parts, with as much extra wiring that you need for it, and the heat shielding that's on it then solder the wires together , and just use that as an adapter
This is what I did. I wired a male and female connector together with 3 wires about 5' long. I wrapped them in electrical tape to keep them together. It was then totally plug and play.
Quickdrive wrote:Where did you run the wiring though? Under the car tucked up somewhere? wrapped in something?
I tie strapped it to the black wire that runs parrellel to the DP and goes into the tranny. Then I tie strapped it the rest of the way to the frame of the car underneath.
-Matt
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
I don't know for sure but I do know that any 1st gen Legacy's would work, including N/A's.
If you really have a hard time sourcing the connectors I can probably get you some really cheap. I'd check if the new gen ones are the same connector though first, as they very well may be.
-Matt
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
There are a couple of things that are worthwhile keeping in mind, when dealing with O2 sensors. We have a note in our installation sheet, as follows:
Ordinary anti-seize compounds should not be used on O2 sensors. Use a recommended sealant (such as Permatex Ultra-Copper High-Temp Sealant), and apply a thin film to the treads only. Keep tip CLEAN!
Moreover, since O2 sensors are measuring small voltage changes, making any solder joints very clean and strong (no cold solder, here, and only electrical grade!) is important. So if you're going to do a splice, make sure you do it right (no twist and tape, for these). It is also important to support the wire, running to the sensor, along its length (I would suggest that no more than 6-8 inches go unsupported). This will keep the wire from excessive flexing, particularly at the point that the wire turns to enter the sensor.[/quote]
stillkckn wrote:
Ordinary anti-seize compounds should not be used on O2 sensors. Use a recommended sealant (such as Permatex Ultra-Copper High-Temp Sealant), and apply a thin film to the treads only. Keep tip CLEAN!
I used Ultra-copper high-temp anti-sieze when I put my O2 sensors in and it worked very well. Is that ok or is 'sealant' more appropriate?
Moreover, since O2 sensors are measuring small voltage changes, making any solder joints very clean and strong (no cold solder, here, and only electrical grade!) is important. So if you're going to do a splice, make sure you do it right (no twist and tape, for these). It is also important to support the wire, running to the sensor, along its length (I would suggest that no more than 6-8 inches go unsupported). This will keep the wire from excessive flexing, particularly at the point that the wire turns to enter the sensor.
That's why I suggest using the OEM connector method, you avoid using any soldering or crimp connectors at all. Supporting the wire every 6-8" is good advice too. =)
-Matt
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
The anti-seize is the better choice, I think, because it is made to maintain the electrical "bond" in the thread area, between the sensor and the (OK, I've said it) bung. With anything using low voltage (as opposed to things like plugs, that operate on high voltage), all the connections need to be kept clean.
Assuming clean threads, on both parts to begin with, what you want is a THIN film of the compound, all the way around the threads. Make sure NONE gets on the tip of the sensor.
The stuff also works great on lug nuts (and turbo flange nuts), too.
It doesn't sound weird. It sounds sensible at first, but I say it's not a good idea.
The engineers that designed our cars' lug hardware specified a certain torque for the lug nuts. That torque ensures an appropriate amount of clamping force and an appropriate amount of seat friction while simultaneously ensuring that the studs do not yield.
When you apply anti-seize, you screw that all up. Your two options are to apply a corrected torque figure and hope they don't back off (I've seen this happen), or to apply more torque than that and hope the studs don't yield (I've seen this happen too) and the brake discs don't warp.
Lugs are responsible for keeping the wheels on the car... they're not a good place to play games.
If you keep the lug studs and nuts clean and dry, and rotate your tires a couple times a year, you shouldn't ever have problems with seizing.
Smearing anti-sieze on the surface of the hub, though, should be okay. I'd say it's still unnecessary though.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Which brings up a whole other issue, and that is how to best measure (and WHAT to measure) when it comes to so-called torque values (I'm in the bolt/stud stretch camp, on this). Serious stuff, worth discussing.
But it seems we've gotten off-topic. on which I assume we both agree, that the right (high copper, sensor safe) anti-seize (on the threads, ONLY) is a good idea, when install an O2.
