ALK is A-OK

[ciper]

Today I installed the Whiteline kca319m Anti-Lift Kit.

I used:

24mm
22mm
19mm
Breaker bar
Torque wrench
Ratchet
Floor jack
jack stands
Scissor jack
Flat screw driver

I did this in my driveway. Wasnt very hard at all. Still wonder about the torque amounts though, the Subaru manual says on number while the Whiteline instruction says another that is 50 or more pounds less!

I didnt follow the directions, both on torque and on installation procedure. It wants you to loosen the Nut holding the A-Arm to the mount first. This is very hard because its close to the body.

My method was quick and easy. Remove both mount to body bolts (19mm). Using a pry bar (breaker bar) push the A-Arm down far enough so that the A-Arm nut is below the fram. Using the scissor jack with the bottom near the mount and the top up inside the space that the cv-axle passes hold the A-Arm down, use the flat screw driver to expand the jack. This makes it super easy to loosen the nut since it is now held below the restriction.

Remove ALL of the old mount, washers, bolts, nuts and put them away. Grease everything up, both the contact surfaces of the A-arm and the rubber/metal portions of the new ALK.

Make sure you read the sticker that says which side the mount belongs to. The larger side of the mount goes towards the front of the car.

The washer is installed backwards to what you may think. The CONE shaped portion of the new washer goes towards the front of the vehicle, the flat side of the washer contacts the nut.

First tighten the nut down. I put mine at 150 ft lbs.

Now use the Pry bar (breaker bar) push the A-Arm down again and remove the scissor jack.

The holes dont line up exactly. Install the INNER-UPPER most bolt first, just so that 5 or so threads engauge.

Using the flat screw driver press the A-Arm down and towards the middle of the car. Try to get at least an inch between the mounting surface and the mount. This makes it easier to install the second OUTER-LOWER bolt.

Make sure not to cross thread. I tightened my bolts to 170 ft-lbs.

You will need an alignment, since this effects both the camber and the Toe.

MPJ Performance sold me this for 100 local sale. They had a deal for 105 shipped which I think is still applicable

[Legacy777]

what sort of difference did you notice in handling/performance?

[ciper]

Well first I have to say that if you have a choice get the normal ones. The motorsports version is VERY HARD.

Although they call this anti-Lift I think its also an anti dive. Under breaking the front end is less likely to dive down.

I want to get an alignment before really pushing things, my car is all aligned by eye at the moment.

[Legacy777]

hmmmm.....I had heard that since they were anti-lift they actually increased nose-dive.

If they combat lift and dive......I would seriously look into these things.

I had also heard to use the "soft" poly bushings....

[vrg3]

It was my understanding that the ALK did its magic by essentially increasing your front caster... is that true?

[Legacy777]

Yup.....increases front caster.

[ciper]

Does anyone want to buy mine? Ill sell it for 105 shipped. I want to try the next softer version, I love every effect of the ALK but this one is too hard.

[Aaron's ej22t]

well, if it is too harsh for you, then it is probably too harsh for me. i also heard the alk comfort were alot better with just as good results.
where is the cheapest place that sells ALK comfort?

[Austin]

ALK's add positive caster which decreases the amount of front end lift on acceleration, meaning less front wheel spin.

A side effect is heavier nose dive during hard braking.

[vrg3]

Ciper, could this be what you need?

http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merchant ... LKCOMFBUSH

Oakos seems to be a pretty cool operation; I remember them being really nice and quick when I bought speed bleeders from them.

[ciper]

Hmm, I wonder how the hell I would get the old ones out! They are incredibly hard. I think Ill email whiteline.