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Ogre
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Post by Ogre »

So about 2 months ago I buy a car off Ebay Motors. It's a 1988 Ford Mustang with a fresh coat of paint. The joint I pick it up from is a body shop. So the car looks really good, and drives really good to. I drive it around a bit and it's okay. Not what I was really wanting, but it was in my price range. 1,200 Bucks... cash out the door. There was a little issue with the brakes so I had the shop fix them. While they were working on the Mustang I walked around to look at some of the other cars.

Everything there is a salvage title... they restore wrecks and sell them to guys like me who get a tax return and want to roll that into something to play with.

There is this green Sub Legacy sitting there... looked pretty nice... a 1992, 130K on the odometer. I walk around it and notice the right rear tire is low on pressure... but everything else is pretty good. I ask to drive it.
Feels pretty tight for a car that got munched and reborn. In fact it felt pretty dang new. I make a deal and we swap. Straight across and they even foot the bill for new skins on all 4 corners. So now I have this Suby for 1,200 bucks. Not bad.

But I have caught a lot of flak for buying this car with a salvage title. But I am not really worried... I know these cars are built right. The engines are remarkable.

Now I live in Utah. But 2 days after I pick up this car, I have to be in Richmond Virginia. I throw my stuff in the car, kiss my wife, and head out... stopping only to get an oil change on the way out of town.

I am crusing from SLC to Cheyenne, drop down to Denver, and start running east. Whole time I'm running at a steady 85MPH. No problems at all... In Kansas I kick it up to 95 and the car is just singing. Get to Virginia and I notice a rather obvious Thumping and Banging when I turn the wheel. Driving down the road at a slow and stead 45... up head up I-15 to a shop I know in Ashland VA. Along the way the car would suddnely jerk to the right... Something is far from right. They are backed up and can't look at it. So I drive back down into Richmond, slowly, to the Suby place on West Broad. Forget the name. I explain the situation and they take the car in and I'm drinking complementary hot beverage in the waiting room. I notice my car, temp tag in the window driving around the lot. I can hear the banging from the waiting room. Service writer walks in about 6 minutes later. "Car is Done".
Huh?
Yeah, come look at this.
They showed me. Under the ball joint, there is a bolt that hold it together.
The bolt was missing. The ball joint would just come part and some how just pop back in. The guys in the shop looked pale when I told them how much driving I had been doing since it started having symptoms like that. Evedently this car COULD have killed me as soon as the joint came open the first time. I think I first noticed the problem in Chesterfield, VA.
Anyways, they put in a new bold and put in a cotter pin to make sure it doesn't come off again.
A few weeks later, I have to be back in Utah.
This time I am in a real hurry.... I get the oil changed again, this time with some 20W50 grade because I read in a shop manual that that is what I should be running. I through in new plugs (Bosh Platinums) and a new air filter too (STP Brand) and then I head West. I super cruise at about 100 most of the way... until I hit Colorado. Weather has been fine the whole trip... then I go through the tunnel up in the Rockies. I am shooting through it at a good clip and see a warning sign go by that says "Winter Conditions Ahead". So slow down a bit... but I am still going pretty fast. I exit the tunnel into a total white out. I can't see ANYTHING. Not the road or even the lines... nothing. Through the heavy falling snow I can make out the flat of the roadway and just stick to the middle of it and keep going. I notice the other direction has been well plowed... but I am on fresh powder and rolling at only 30 now through this winter hell. But the Suby isn't having any issues... it keeps plugging ahead no problem. No slipping tires... no slides... no skids... The snow clears up once I hit PRICE UTAH some hours later.... Later I hear on the news that Denver is snowed in. "No Kidding?" I think to my self. So Price is clear of snow... and I am behind schedual. I hit it and drive the Sube like I stole it. Like something out of GRAND THEFT AUTO III if you ever played that game. I'm doing 130 the rest of the way home... No problem. I make my meeting and all is good.
Oh, I still have a paper tag in the window. So I roll in to the inspection station.. Safety... Passed. Emissions... Passed. No problems noted at all. Car was running GREAT after such a flogging. 2800 miles one way... and I put on about another 1000 around Virginia and Utah since. (And yet another oil change)

I think I am a firm believer in the Suby as a reliable and solid little car.
Now that I have it back home safe and sound in Utah... and we are all settled down...
I was thinking about selling this car and buying a motorcycle... but I have decided to keep it.

I think it's time to whip that Suby some more. I'm thinking some Rally Cross action with it. Its done a lot of hard work... I deserves to play now.
8)

Okay... I'm new to Subes, and to this Forum... so help me out.
I come from Rally Trashing Audi and VW cars. This Sube is ALIEN to me. It's an automatic and that's alien too. But the car feels spry enough to play well... but it could pull a little harder. It's stock right now.
What are the first things you should do to liven up a Sube?
And what the heck is that black button just forward of the gear selector?
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1992 Legacy L AWD
Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Nice story & welcome to the board.

First thing i would do is recommend getting rid of the bosch platinums and putting some NGK copper plugs in. Bosch plugs just don't seem to run too well in subies.

If you haven't done a general tune-up, air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve, wires, plugs, etc.....do that. May want to run some fuel injector cleaner through too.

I would also suggest going to 10w30 or 10w40. 20w50 is acceptable, per the owner's manual, but there's no need to run that high a weight oil. You're just getting less hp & fuel economy.

I've run 10w30 pretty much since I got my car. I now have 170,000 on it.

Performance upgrades.....depends on how much you want to spend.... lightweight crank pulley is a good upgrade, MSD DIS2 ignition with an upgraded "diamond" coil pack, snorkel removal in the fender, exhaust......those are for the most part....easy things that aren't too much trouble to do.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

forgot to mention.....the little black button at the top of the shift lever is a shift lock release button. If the car is parked and keys are not around, you can get the car out of park by pushing down on that button.

If you have an owner's manual.....I suggest reading it.....there's TONS of info in there you will learn about your car.

If you don't have one.......I have mine scanned you can read.....
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Ogre
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Post by Ogre »

No, the car came with nothing. No manual.

Yeah, I gave it a tune up... but I've not done the PCV Valve, wires, and Fuel filter yet. Those are on the list.

Fuel economy has been pretty good. I get an average of 30MPG on the highway. That is much better than my Cherokee so I am pleased with it.
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Here's the link for my manual http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/owner

Scroll down to the bottom and you'll see a pdf file. That's the entire manual.

Please right click and save as.
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
ciper
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Post by ciper »

Probably the best bang for the buck to start would be to replaced the tires. The shop that was so nice to replace the four tires probably bought you the cheapest hardest crapiest tires possible.

With 120k your suspension is probably nearing the end. If you taking it apart anyways you should consider springs.

Brake performance can be increased on the cheap with donor brakes from other subarus.

My suggestion is the following

Used WRX 16 inch wheels for 300
Ecsta 712 or AVS es100 tires 400
KYB GR2 struts with Whiteline springs 550
Used WRX front brake hardware 200

With these your car would be very nice. If your goal is straight line speed (coming from a mustang!) then my list is probably not the best route.
Ogre
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Post by Ogre »

Thank you guys... You have been a help already.

The tires are pretty good. Big O's upper level street tires. They are doing quite well.

Straight line speed... Nay...
Let me tell you where I am from. I got my SCCA license when i was 16 and did some rally racing... Mainly Audi Fox, 4000 and Quattros. But also in a Fiat 131... lots of fun. Oh, and my beloved late 84 VW Rabbit GTI. From that point till I was about 21 I had gone through about 35 cars... all Audis save a very few. Then after that I went with another route. Jeeps. (We wont talk about the 400 horse Toyota Supra I was building for Rally) I had the Mustang for just a few hours before I got rid of it - swapping for the Legacy AWD.
I like a Multi-Role Fighter. Fast, but it has to have other skills and I'd trade flat out for better balance.
I think this is what I am looking at in this order:
New Plugs
New Wires
Green Filter air filter. http://www.greenfilterusa.com/
Probably fabricate a new airbox... but I am not sure yet.
I might look at forced induction... but that is down the road.
Suspension... I want stiffer at all 4 corners and I am thinking of raising it about 2 inches. Utah is a little rough... but I don't want too much change.
I've got some 5 spoke alloys on it now... they could go bigger, but then you sacrifice quickness as your effectively gearing it taller... But those WRX wheels do look great don't they? WRX brakes... Ooh yeah. That is a must. We shall see how that works. First thing though is all under hood work to get the car rolling at speed.
The KYB struts... great suggestion... thanks... Whiteline springs? I'll have to look into those.
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ciper
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Post by ciper »

The most common way to raise the vehicle is using the scorpion kits, either lift springs or a full chassis lift kit.

If your looking for stiffness then I suggest the KYB AGX adjustables. Cheap and good performance.

The WRX brakes can be had very cheap. I got a full set of rears with backing plates for 150 shipped. I only wanted the calipers but the deal couldnt be beat.
The front WRX brakes are great, they use the same pad design as other subaru so pads arent hard to find. The rotor is over an inch larger if I remember right (11.6).
Once you have the rear WRX calipers you can get the rotors and brackets intended for current legacy models that are 11.4 in diameter

As far as the WRX wheels I think you would be surprised. Only 16 pounds!! 16 inch tires of low weight can be found that are cheap, with good treadwear and an increase in traction.
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Post by subaruguy »

I have a few ideas for your airbox I have heard of people cutting the bottom half of the box of and using a knn filter but what i did with my 93 legacy was the following: I removed the entire airbox separated the top and bottom and if you look at the outlet on the top you will notice a gold colored mounting plate where it mounts to the maf, theres 2 rivets holding it in drill them out and remove the little bracket, next buy yourself a universal high flow cone air filter, then proceed to bolt the bracket to the maf and shove the air filter into it it fits perfectly and sounds absolutly beautiful its basicly cold air intake for about $20. scroll down youll see what im talking about and look for the maf adapter $35 http://home.att.net/%7Eteaguesauto/motor.htm also I had nakayama racing exhaust its real deep and throatty well good luck with your suby
Subaruguy
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

subaruguy......I wouldn't necessarily call that a "cold" air intake....it's a free-flowing intake......but because it's sucking air from the engine bay.....there's no way it's cold.

There are some threads in the intake forum where I've discussed some of the merits of the stock box and what might be an "ideal" intake setup.

I really like the free revving of the open style intakes.....but do not like the fact they suck air from the engine bay, or that they kill low end torque.
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Ogre
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Post by Ogre »

Lots of good solid information... thanks guys.

I think I am going to route the air intake to pick the air up from the front.
I did this with my Cherokee and basically created a ram air effect. I picked up a lot of power, especially when I get rolling over 40 mph...
For anyone in Utah that knows "Point Of The Mountain" check this out - before the mod, I was rolling at only 40 and down into 3rd when I crested the Point. After the mod - no problem... staying in 5th and crusing it at 70. HUGE difference. Unfortunately the low end is still sluggish as ever.
Serves me right for picking up a Jeep with the AMC 2.5liter I-4. If I can get that same kinda difference in the Scooby that I did in Scooter... I'll very happy.

This morning I was out and about and had a little race with a Honda. I beat him... but it was CLOSE. Too close. The manual shift selection is a blessing. But even in just Automatic mode the car is shifting at the right points. Subaru's engineers programmed the car right from the start with a nod to spirited drivers. I am told that a reprogramed chip wont give you much of a boost due to the fact the car is programmed agressively from the factory. Is that true?

I think after the plugs wires and intake mod... I'm going to hit the brakes and then suspension. That's the plans.

16 pounds for WRX wheels? Whoa. That is much lighter than my current wheels. I think I may go that route.
Weight is important since i plan on not just driving this thing... but slinging it around cones like a lunatic.
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ciper
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Post by ciper »

Yeah 16 pounds. Not only that but they look good and are subaru OEM. For 300 dollars I DARE you to find anything that comes close!

The other benefit is that its a perfect balance between performance and tire cost. 205 50 16 tires are cheap. You also save on rotational mass since the tire and rim arent concentrated far from the pivot, compared to 17 inch.

They also fit the WRX brakes perfectly :wink:

Does your vehicle have ABS?
Ogre
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Post by Ogre »

No... No ABS. I'm more of an old school Driver and new things like ABS confuse and frighten me.

I'll have to look into finding a set of WRX components. (What I would really love is to just get my books published and buy a new WRX!)
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ciper
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Post by ciper »

"and buy a new WRX!"

BLASPHEMY : (from www.m-w.com) irreverence toward something considered sacred or inviolable

I ask about the ABS becuase without it you can modify the air intake to have a secondary opening running behind the passenger headlight. With it you are stuck using the hole in the fender.

Speaking of the WRX, you should realize that the previous generation Impreza with the current WRX engine is considerably faster than most vehicles on the road. Not only that but a fully configured vehicle with this setup can be had for 12-14k with only 4-15k on the engine. No custom parts (except the wire harness) so repairs are a snap.
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Post by IggDawg »

I'm going to second the comment about replacing your bosch plugs with NGKs. I had bosch plugs in my legacy, and my engine was misfiring itself to death. I was thinking of all the huge issues that could be cuaseing the weird hesitation. I swaped out the plugs and the problems vanished instantly. I've said it before and I'll say it again: Bosch has suck!

another thing you should do is look up the thread here on knock sensors. make sure you have the "white connector" and not the "grey connector." the casing on the knock sensor with the grey connector would crack and split, causing shorts and thusly retarded timing. if you have a pick-apart yard near you, try scouring the legacies there for proper knock sensors. or else just get one from the dealer. this is another very common issue.

other than that, enjoy the legacy. come here with issues and we'll help you out as best we can.
IggDawg is cool.

-IggDawg

1994 Barcelona Red SVX LSi.
1990 CRX Si (for sale)

I know a little about Subarus.
Ogre
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Post by Ogre »

Okay... Okay... I wont buy a WRX... :lol:

I'll turn my Legacy into a sleeper and hunt other Subes who didn't expect the older Legacy to dust them.

And I've ordered the NGKs. :wink:
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Post by IggDawg »

Ogre wrote: I'll turn my Legacy into a sleeper and hunt other Subes who didn't expect the older Legacy to dust them.
none of us have ever done this ;) .
IggDawg is cool.

-IggDawg

1994 Barcelona Red SVX LSi.
1990 CRX Si (for sale)

I know a little about Subarus.
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