I'm going to compile some info as I go and eventually do a full write-up with text and pictures on the install but this will just be quick updates and some pics until then.
First thing is to change your oil! Then completely remove your pre and post turbo air intake plumbing and TMIC if you have one. Besides removing my intake I sprayed ( more like hosed) my DP, up-pipe and manifold heatsheild bolts with PB Blast.
Here's a couple pics of the progress so far:


I'll be adding info as I go. Tomorrow is the big day that I hope to have everything mostly installed.

Finally, more pics!
Subarina being preped for surgery (see how calm she is?).

Drain coolant, unhook coolant and oil lines from turbo and remove the DP

Then remove the turbo (I had an oil leak on the return line)

Then remove the lower heat shield on the passenger side exhaust manifold

Then unbolt the turbo support bracket, up-pipe to manifold bolts and remove up-pipe

Out with the old.

In with the new!


The CES up-pipe is bunged for an EGT. The bung is threaded for a m12-1.25 thread. Make sure you have an adapter for your 1/8" NPT probe or have a M12-1.25 probe before install. I didn't and had to just put a bolt in it until I can get an adapter.
Attach the turbo support bracket and tighten down to block and tranny. Then tighten down the up-pipe to manifold bolts. *Haynes manual say's 18-24 ft lbs* Make sure to tighten each bolt a little at a time so that youi get equal pressure on the flange and seat the gasket correctly.

Switch the coolant inlet line around, actually unblot it and turn it over and re-attach. This way it's pointing back towards the OEM Coolant tank location. Future pictures will show this.
I didn't get a before shot for this but it's no biggie. There is a small ridge on the 16G where the DP flange and the up-pipe flange meet. It needs to be ground off for the CES Racing's Boost Enhancement Plate (BEP) to correctly seat on the DP gasket and flange.

Then bolt down the turbo on the up-pipe and re-attach the DP. Be sure to put the DP gasket on the turbo flange FIRST, then the BEP. *You will probably have to remove two PCV hoses that will be in the way of the compressor outlet too.* Always tighten bolts slowly moving in a star pattern (as best you can ) so the you get equal pressure and seat the gaskets correctly.

These are pics of the before mentiones coolant line and the PCV hoses that are in the way.


Then rerun the PCV lines.


Now when hooking the OEM intake piece that attaches to the compressor inlet you'll need to do some trimimg. The VF11 has little lips on a verticle axis to the car that the piece slides around and helps keep it secure. On the 16G they are on a horizontal axis to the car. So, you need to make the slots on the intake piece yourself. I used a utility knife.



Re-assemble the rest of the intake plumbing and double check all your vacuum lines.



Almost done! You just need to refill your coolant. Make sure to sqeeze the main hose every once and a while that comes off the top of the radiator on the passenger side and fill it slow so that you don't get air pockets.



*Before driving or moving the car*. Unhook the coil pack and turn over the engine for 15 seconds and then wait 10 seconds. Repeat this 3 times. Then hook your coil pack back up and let the car run at idle for at least 10 minutes without moving the car or even touching the accelerator. Once you've done this you should have sufficient oil volume built up inside the cartridge and it should be OK to drive. For the 1st 100 mile keep boost at or below 5-7 psi. Then for the next 250 miles keep boost at or below 10-12 psi. After that, drive it like you stole it!

I didn't do the CES cross-pipe yet but will soon. Once I get my adapter for the EGT it too will be going in.