Problem with stock boost solenoid ! ! ! !

[Sir Yach-o]

Well, I wanted to get rid of mine, but ran into a problem.

About 8 months ago, I converted to the realm of more boost by installing an AVC-r. I'm very happy with it, and it does the job well. However, I remember that upon this installation, you are supposed to keep the stock boost solenoid plugged in electronically so the ECU doesn't freak. So I did, but when I ran high boost (11psi) for a while, the stock solenoid would start clicking, and continue clicking as long as the rpm's were over 1000. Even if I ran wastegate pressure after pushing it hard, it would still be clicking when over 1000rpm, no matter if I was on the gas or not. So, after 8 months, I finally got fed up with it and decided to attempt to solve the problem. Here's what I did:

1. Took out the solenoid completely. Bad idea. Massive fuel cut gets initiated when I exceed like, 3psi. Not to mention CEL code 44 - fauly boost solenoid. Makes sense.

2. So I figured, "allright the ECU sees an open circuit where there should be a closed one." So I simply closed the circuit. Same bad fuel cut result.

3. New idea. Try and match the resistance of the solenoid (28.1 ohms) with some resistors, and close the circuit. Same result. Same CEL. Same useless 3psi.

4. Realizing that I had failed in my endeavor, I put the solenoid back in. I know when I'm beat... but no. SAME RESULT, even with everything the way I had it to start!!!!! Aw, Crap! What did I do to my car!!!!

So now I'm totally lost as to what I should do. Keep in mind that after every new attempt to fix the problem, I reset the ECU via the battery disconnect method. PLEASE HELP!!!

thanks guys, I know I can count on you.
-mike

[Legacy777]

Have you checked all your connections to the avc-r?

[Sir Yach-o]

Yeah, avc-r is fine. It's definitely something with the communication between the stock solenoid and the ECU. I just haven't a clue how to fix it. I feel this might be Al's territory.
Has anyone else experienced the +1000rpm clicking I'm talking about?

-mike

[teesaa]

Reset your ECU. Instructions can be found in this forum.

ECU "remembers" the conditions when the initial fuel-cut happened and replicates them each time when the parameteres are the same.

The clicking is the solenoids normal operating noise. By opening & closing the small valve it controls the wastegate actuator (by determining how much pressure the actuator sees).

[Sir Yach-o]

Yeah,

I reset the ECU after each time I changed something, so the ECU is definitely re-seeing the same problem (code 44) each time.

Also, about the clicking solenoid .... IMO, it shouldn't really be doing that unless the pressure sensor is reading high pressure at the time. My solenoid clicks (or it used to) even at closed throttle while coming down off of the RPM's until it gets below 1000. Peculiar.

Fuel cut at 2psi is hard as hell to drive with on a 10lb. flywheel and ACT clutch. Please help,

-mike

[teesaa]

Hmmmm...sorry to hear your troubles are continuing...

Maybe its the wiring to the boost solenoid. You have tried connecting & disconnecting the wires, attaching resistor to the wires and finally re-installing the solenoid. All with the same result - fuel-cuts continue.

Maybe its the wiring to the solenoid that is damaged somewhere along the way. The only way I can think of testing the wires is disconnecting the loom from the ECU and then locating the appropriate wires from the diagram and checking the wires from the both ends.

The other way to find out if the solenoid itself is faulty is to borrow one from your friends car (someone in your local club maybe???) and try to run the car with that - BEFORE you go and buy a new/used solenoid.

Hope you will solve your problem.

[morgie]

I experienced your "Solenoid clicking his ass out" problem yesterday while trying to install my Home made boost controler.

I also experienced the "Fuel-Cut at 0.1psi" problem.. it's realy hard to drive in those conditions. .


I cant help on telling you what is the prob since i haven't solved mine yet :\ but it seems to be related to the pressure sensor, and solenoid. If you go into diagnostic mode, do you get the 44 and 45 error codes like i had yesterday ?

[Sir Yach-o]

New update on the solenoid problem.

I've got a friend who has the same car... 93 turbo... and I stole his soleniod and plugged it into my car. Same problem, so at least now I know that it is something past the solenoid connection. Anyone know where and how I should check from here? If all else fails, will a fuel-cut defender cure the problem, even though it isn't over-boost (13psi) related?

thanks.
-mike

[Sir Yach-o]

One more update...

I've recently checked the connection to the ECU with a voltimeter. With the ignition in the "on" position, it reads 12v. So, to me it seems like the connection to the ECU is just fine as well.

Could the ECU just not be erasing the CEL code, even though I disconnect the battery overnight? Is there something I've overlooked? I'm really stumped, and my car is slow.

-mike

[Sir Yach-o]

Allright, new update.
I got a little less lazy and actually ran a test wire from the solenoid connector to the other end at the actual ECU loom. Continuity is there, so all wires are just fine. I'm thoroughly convinced now that I killed my ECU.

-mike

[bmxkelowna]

bringing back 3 year old threads FTW!!!!!

went out for a drive tonight, think to my self hey, whats that clicking over 1000rpm?

pop the hood, give it some gas and its my pressure solenoid.

why? nothing has changed, no mbc, no fcd thats all stock.

what would cause this? any way to fix it?

[94legacyturboawd]

wtf is happening people Im having similar probs fuel cuts out at like 3000 rpm is it a boost leak, vac leak, electrical prob im gonna die my car runs awesome one day then shits out the next

[biggreen96]

I have a AVC-R as well and sometimes I get the clicking, except mine does it below 1000rpms and I have to shut the car off to get rid of it. It hasn't happened to me for a maybe 2 weeks now.