n/a to turbo conversion question.

[boosted5speed]

Anybody here actually boosted an n/a ej22 in a legacy?
What im trying to find out is what parts id need off of a turbo leg sedan to turbocharge my na

after many months of searching, i managed to find a cheapie junkyard that actually has a 91 SS in it, and im going to scavange it for parts if i cant buy the whole car off them cheap. Ive decided that its my only option for getting a turbo leg since they are scarce down here in texas

the main parts that i can think of = turbo/manifolds, uppipe, (injectors any different?), the ecu, and possibly the front crossmember (they are different correct?) if I can get the whole car, ill be set and ill just use the ej22t and swap the whole thing in, but im thinking an n/a with a stock turbo setup on it with an intercooler should be allright on a 6-7 #'s of boost , and be more than enough power for a fwd. Anything else you guys can think of? Any answers are much appreciated.

[Yukonart]

If the stock block in the SS is in good shape, you'd be wise to snag that, too. A fully-closed deck block would allow you boost more safely.

Might want to find out if they'll let you take the whole engine for a decent price. That way you'll have almost everything you'll need.

[Legacy777]

you can boost a n/a ej22 just fine....however yah there are a few things that would help if you got stuff from the turbo legacy motor.

[douglas vincent]

Supercharge it! Much Much easier than converting to turbo. And cheaper. You are still going to boost low so why not do it cheaper and easier?

[THAWA]

if you do it correctly, its not easier or cheaper.

[douglas vincent]

Easier? If I were to supply a list of all correct parts and accessories, and a somewhat detailed install guide I do think it would be easier. When I had to reinstall my own "kit" back on the car, It only took 2.5 hours to install it. Thats from opening the hood of a stock NA with all the stock parts in place. I repeat, 2.5 hours. Thats DAMN fast and easy for a "kit" that adds 4-5 psi of boost. I admit that I actually had to make my kit and that took some time to figure out and what not, plus get the various parts, but you have to do the same when turning a NA engine into a turbo engine. I challenge you to show me a turbo kit that only takes 2.5 hours to install.

Cheaper? Depends on what all you can do, what you can find used and so on. If you were to find a wrecked SS for $500, you luck out. If you have to source out the piping, brackets, crossmember and so forth, it can get spendy. I spent about a total of $725 for my setup. Pretty cheap. I am not including the money I spent for the larger pulley set up for 10 psi because that is not installed and does require aftermarcket timing and/or Fuel Management.

Done Correctly? At the boost I am running (estimated 4-5 psi since my boost guage is kind of whacked) I do think it is done correctly. Time will tell though. And if I blow up, again, I will let you know.

[THAWA]

you're controlling boost with belt tension, how is this in any way shape or form, correct? You've taken no steps to upgrade the fuel system, again I ask how this is correct? Timing control, what are you doing for that? If all you're doing is mounting a supercharger, changing a belt, and the air intake, I should hope it could be done in 2.5 hrs. When you make a correct setup that doesnt blow up in a week then you can say whether or not it'll be cheaper.

[douglas vincent]

What superchargers boost is not "controlled" by belt tension? When I installed the huge custom crank, THEN I was "controlling" boost by loosening the belt tension since I didnt want 12psi. As it is, the stock pulley puts out, with a correctly tensioned belt, 4-5 psi.

I did upgrade the fuel system, or at least as much as it should be for such low psi, with a rrfpr. Yes I could do better, but the car runs fine now, and did run fine then, before I put the bigger pulley on.

Timing control? At low boost, I am seeing no knock (and I know the sound of the dreaded knock), so no timing control nessesary, even though yes, I would and am going to invest in that when I get the money next month.

I blew it up A- after a few weeks and B- running 10 psi plus a 60 shot of nitrous without the rrfpr.


5 psi on a NA motor is 5 psi no matter what, no matter how you do it.

[boosted5speed]

guys guys guys no need to get into an argument over supercharged vs turbocharged, I already know i want a junkyard turbo kit, im simply trying to figure out what else id need off that wrecked ss i only spent 500.00 on my legacy to begin with, i have a total of about 700 in it (thats including sales tax, licensing and everything else) and im happy with it, just want more oompf out of my beater
getting into the 14's would be a plus, and if its a 5speed im going to do everything i can to get the whole car so i can perform an awd swap while im at it. As it is, the beater 500.00 subie runs a high 16 so 5 pounds of boost should get it into the 15's, possibly 14's without a problem.


Main thing im concerned with, is, do I HAVE to swap the crossmember to use the turbo manfolds and exhaust on an n/a ej22. (this only applies if i cant get the whole car =-\ )

[douglas vincent]

Trying not to argue, just set some few things out correctly on what I did.

However, even I will say that running a 14.99 on a turboed NA will be hard and exspensive. I only managed it with 5 psi AND a 60 shot of nitrous.


Stock SS's only ran the 1/4 in high 15's, low 16's.

Heck, I am hoping and trying just to get into the mid-15's with the supercharger running 5 psi, and I am pretty sure I aint gonna get there.

[THAWA]

For the record I'm not argueing sc vs tc.

Rather than answer your question with an answer I'd rather answer it with another question. What supercharger has the boost controlled by tension and not the size of the crank and supercharger pulleys?

I'm not even going to try to continue this discussion as anything I say to you pretty much goes in one and out the other.

boosted- You dont HAVE to swap the crossmember, but it'd be a whole lot easier. If you use your stock one, you'll ave to cut it to allow room for the uppipe. What you could also do is use one of the newer n/a manifolds, the type that come to a flange joint before the cat, and get custom pipes created to go to the turbo and back down to the midpipe. Also just to note, if you're changing the crossmember, you'll also need the sway bar.

[douglas vincent]

I am not argueing TC vs SC either. I just brought it up because it can be done effeciently (I believe) when running low boost on an NA.

ALL superchargers are controlled by belt tension. They have a belt, therefore they are controlled by belt tension. Maximum boost is controlled by pulley ratio AND belt tension. If the belt is ribbed, such as all Eaton brand superchargers, having the belt tightened less than optimal will result in less than max boost. ie it slips. If it is a cogged belt, and tightened less than optimal, then you are going to quickly eat a belt I would guess.

What did you even say that I didnt respond to with some sort of reason? I do read your posts with respect by the way, I am just responding to your questions.

[Matt Monson]

boosted- You dont HAVE to swap the crossmember, but it'd be a whole lot easier. If you use your stock one, you'll ave to cut it to allow room for the uppipe. What you could also do is use one of the newer n/a manifolds, the type that come to a flange joint before the cat, and get custom pipes created to go to the turbo and back down to the midpipe. Also just to note, if you're changing the crossmember, you'll also need the sway bar.

It is way easier and cheaper to swap the x-member than to go that custom route. Even a new x-member is only around $300. And you Do Not need to change the sway bar. At least I didn't on my '90

But something to think about with this set up is the boost. If you run a Legacy turbo ECU, it will run the turbo maps. And you will also need the boost solenoid, pressure sensor, etc, along with that portion of the wiring harness.

By all means get everything, including the block if you can. Otherwise a ghetto turbo or SC set up can be done DIY for way cheaper than all those turbo parts will run you of that junkyard dog...

[azn2nr]

get the motor and put it in with the na drive line. that would be the easiest way

[evolutionmovement]

Yeah, there's little sense in getting the rest, but leaving the block. Even for a kick-ass N/A application it would be better. The engine is light. I can carry the block halves in each hand and the total package is >300 lbs so there's little logistical reason not to grab the whole deal.

Steve

[boosted5speed]

=[ except for the fact that it turns out that the junkyard inventory is out of date, and the only thing they have left of the engine components is the left side exhaust manifold =[ not even the hood is there anymore. Oh well, missed out again.

[THAWA]

boosted- You dont HAVE to swap the crossmember, but it'd be a whole lot easier. If you use your stock one, you'll ave to cut it to allow room for the uppipe. What you could also do is use one of the newer n/a manifolds, the type that come to a flange joint before the cat, and get custom pipes created to go to the turbo and back down to the midpipe. Also just to note, if you're changing the crossmember, you'll also need the sway bar.

It is way easier and cheaper to swap the x-member than to go that custom route. Even a new x-member is only around $300. And you Do Not need to change the sway bar. At least I didn't on my '90

yeah thats' what I was saying Cool stuff about the not needing to change the sway bar though.