pulley bolt

rally370 · Post by **rally370** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 7:07 pm

Got myself one of those underdrive pulley.if you have problems removing the 22mm bolt try this.
Put a 22mm socket on a long handle torque wrench,then put a big piece of wood up against the battery.Put the socket/wrench on the bolt (set to undo)and leave the handle about 2" away from the wood(check it won't hit anything)
Take off the plug to the ingnitor(so engine won't start) flick the starter key once and bang the bolt is loose!
I do this with every car I've owned and it never fails.

Cheers

Chris

94L_wagon · Post by **94L_wagon** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:33 am

You did that with your torque wrench! If I were you I would cross check it with another torque wrench to make sure it is still accurate. I buggered a torque wrench of mine loosening off lugnuts before I learned the error of my ways (it was 50% out after that).

I have used the same dodgy trick myself, but no block of wood and no gap, just using a long breaker bar against the chassis. Works every time.

Serioulsy though, don't want to be a grandad but check that torque wrench before you tighten anything mission critical with it!

fishbone79 · Post by **fishbone79** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:42 am

That is most definitely very bad torque wrench etiquette. Not to mention not so hot for the motor. A ½” breaker bar would be more appropriate, if you have trouble, slide a length of pipe over it to give you more leverage. But for gods sake man, I wince when I have to use my torque wrench on any spec above 100 foot pounds, I can’t imagine what that would do to it.

rally370 · Post by **rally370** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 4:44 pm

Point taken! my torque wrench is an old one with a very long handle which I've used for these sort of jobs.
You are both quite correct,a knackered torgue wrench or breaker bar should be used.
I only put the wood there because the wrench would hit the battery,plus I'm to lazy to remove it!

Cheers

Chris

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:26 pm

Or,
If it is out of the car and you have no flywheel to secure, you can do as we did last night on a buggered EJ257. Stick a 14mm allen wrapped in a towel into the crank (oil pan off) and lock the crank in place. Then take a breaker bar to the crank pulley. This was the last resort after the air impact wrench couldn't pop it loose.

So,
anyone got any real good tricks for the cam pullies? I've got one that just refuses to break loose, and on the DOHC, you have to pull the freakin' cams out to get to the head studs. stupid friggin saki drinking Subaru engineers...

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:54 pm

there's a special tool to lock the cam pullies together.

I posted the info in one of the threads back a page or so about changing the timing belt on the 2.5 engines.

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:01 pm

yeah, but special tools cost money.

I am already $300 short on rent, no special tool for me. Ghetto garage is my world...

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:20 pm

I have finally found a quote worthy for my signiture!

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:34 pm

Shit, I made a tool for maybe $20 to pop all the pulleys loose, but it only works with SOHC.

Steve

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:37 pm

yeah...glad to be of assistance. I really need to post pics of the ghetto garage. It is actually the ghetto subbie junkyard. 2 EJ22's in pieces. All kinds of WRX, RS and STi bits. And the latest addition an EJ257 block w/EJ20 heads. And I lay everything out so I can see everything and it is in order. 1 1/2 cars' space worth of layout right now.

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:38 pm

evolutionmovement wrote:Shit, I made a tool for maybe $20 to pop all the pulleys loose, but it only works with SOHC.

Steve

Why only SOHC?

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pulley bolt

pulley bolt