replacin oil filter
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replacin oil filter
hey this is my first post as im new to the legacy world,
i recently bought a awd estate for absolute pennies
only a few little problems with it one being the oil filter needin replaced but as im unfamiliar with boxer engines im needin a little help
whats the best way to go about this
i recently bought a awd estate for absolute pennies
only a few little problems with it one being the oil filter needin replaced but as im unfamiliar with boxer engines im needin a little help
whats the best way to go about this
2.0GL AWD legacy, will go anywere you want anytime
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jason - VEHICLE. I'm saving you from the other jason.
.
although, viechile sounds like a pretty good n' spicy mexican dish.. know how to make it?
hold the enchiladas, please.
I'm just jabbin' at you, man, don't take offense.. I'm not the world's best spieller, either.. (i did that on purpose.)

although, viechile sounds like a pretty good n' spicy mexican dish.. know how to make it?
hold the enchiladas, please.
I'm just jabbin' at you, man, don't take offense.. I'm not the world's best spieller, either.. (i did that on purpose.)
[b]'92 L Sedan[/b]
EJ20g 4.11 5sp LSD
[quote]e46 owners tend to be twats.
[/quote]
EJ20g 4.11 5sp LSD
[quote]e46 owners tend to be twats.
[/quote]
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oh, and just for clarity, Br1ano, in case you're not familiar with oil changing procedures on gas powered (you guys use petrol, don't you?) cars, it's pretty easy.
First: LET THE CAR COOL OFF> HOT OIL HURTS LIKE MO'.
Next, put the car up a bit so you can get under it, and carefully unscrew the oil pan drain plug. I say careful, cause if you strip that thing.. oh, boy, you're gonna be doing the mad hop in your kilt fer sho'. (floppy, floppy!)
Make sure you've got your catch thingie for all that dirty oil, and let it flow out.. go wash your hands off while it drips, as you'll likely have some that gotcha in the process. While it drips, take the old filter out, and box it up, and throw it out. Dip your finger in the dirty oil (yes, the dirty oil) and rub some around the gasket/threads of the new filter and screw that sucker in place. The dirt and particles from the dirty oil help to create a better seal, in case you were wondering.
Again, being careful, screw the drain plug back in the oil pan --careful--! and go under the bonnet, and begin adding the new oil. (i assume you know where to put it.
)
Our cars take about 5 quarts of oil, which, in your scottish measurements, is.. i dunno. Add the four, and close it all up, and go for a drive. Get it heated back up again, (don't have to go too far, now) and come back, and while its running, add that 5th quart. Let it idle for a bit after you close it all up, and then you're set to go.
I'm not writing all this out cause i think you're stupid, i'm just covering my bases in case you ARE a newb. If not, good for you, lotza folks don't know how to do this, really.
Good luck, and welcome to the club, we're glad you're here! Feel free to come back with any further questions you may have. I myself am on all day long, everyday, so if you've got a question later, you can be sure I'll chime in somewhere to answer it.
Also, check in the members area for the members list, and see who's also in your part of the world... you may be able to have a first Legacycentral Scotland meet! It makes a perfect excuse to get together, talk shop, and have some beers, and of course, oggle each other's cars..
Best,
First: LET THE CAR COOL OFF> HOT OIL HURTS LIKE MO'.
Next, put the car up a bit so you can get under it, and carefully unscrew the oil pan drain plug. I say careful, cause if you strip that thing.. oh, boy, you're gonna be doing the mad hop in your kilt fer sho'. (floppy, floppy!)
Make sure you've got your catch thingie for all that dirty oil, and let it flow out.. go wash your hands off while it drips, as you'll likely have some that gotcha in the process. While it drips, take the old filter out, and box it up, and throw it out. Dip your finger in the dirty oil (yes, the dirty oil) and rub some around the gasket/threads of the new filter and screw that sucker in place. The dirt and particles from the dirty oil help to create a better seal, in case you were wondering.
Again, being careful, screw the drain plug back in the oil pan --careful--! and go under the bonnet, and begin adding the new oil. (i assume you know where to put it.

Our cars take about 5 quarts of oil, which, in your scottish measurements, is.. i dunno. Add the four, and close it all up, and go for a drive. Get it heated back up again, (don't have to go too far, now) and come back, and while its running, add that 5th quart. Let it idle for a bit after you close it all up, and then you're set to go.
I'm not writing all this out cause i think you're stupid, i'm just covering my bases in case you ARE a newb. If not, good for you, lotza folks don't know how to do this, really.
Good luck, and welcome to the club, we're glad you're here! Feel free to come back with any further questions you may have. I myself am on all day long, everyday, so if you've got a question later, you can be sure I'll chime in somewhere to answer it.

Also, check in the members area for the members list, and see who's also in your part of the world... you may be able to have a first Legacycentral Scotland meet! It makes a perfect excuse to get together, talk shop, and have some beers, and of course, oggle each other's cars..
Best,
[b]'92 L Sedan[/b]
EJ20g 4.11 5sp LSD
[quote]e46 owners tend to be twats.
[/quote]
EJ20g 4.11 5sp LSD
[quote]e46 owners tend to be twats.
[/quote]
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umm... vaccum leak? Check all the hoses and connections leading to and from the intake hose.
Does it start, and stay running as long as you revv it? That would indicate some kind of vaccum leak somewhere.
So does it start, then? Or will it not even get to a running point? If that is the case, start at the starter motor and work your way through.
Have you done any work under the hood (bonnet) yet?
Yes, THAWA, I belive an Estate is a wagon.
Keep us posted.
Does it start, and stay running as long as you revv it? That would indicate some kind of vaccum leak somewhere.
So does it start, then? Or will it not even get to a running point? If that is the case, start at the starter motor and work your way through.
Have you done any work under the hood (bonnet) yet?
Yes, THAWA, I belive an Estate is a wagon.
Keep us posted.
[b]'92 L Sedan[/b]
EJ20g 4.11 5sp LSD
[quote]e46 owners tend to be twats.
[/quote]
EJ20g 4.11 5sp LSD
[quote]e46 owners tend to be twats.
[/quote]
its not a vacumm leak cause no matter how much i rev it it instantly cuts out i checked the throttle conection thats all fine i was thinkin a fuel problem of some kind but ive not had enough time to get under the car yet
it does however have slightly more success in the low selector but still cutts out
it does however have slightly more success in the low selector but still cutts out
2.0GL AWD legacy, will go anywere you want anytime
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I agree, but I like to give it 5-10 minutes so the exhaust doesn't melt my skin on contact.subyluvr2212 wrote:Hot oil drains faster and more efficiently. I only change my oil after it's been running. Yeah the oil is hot, so what? Man up91legacy_sleeper wrote:First: LET THE CAR COOL OFF> HOT OIL HURTS LIKE MO'.

"That shouldn't be a problem, since I do regularly visit the realm of subatmospheric manifold pressures." -- vrg3
Hot oil is best
ok, in reply to this thread even though it's mega-old. Yes, dropping the hot oil is best, as der Fahrer says:
Talk to any old timer and they'll tell you never use an engine flush before dropping your oil. Siloo or whatever, especially on an older engine, will break so much sludge and grime free that there's a good possibility the engine will seize(I've know people it's happened to).
I can't speak for synthetic oils, 'coz I don't know, but as far as regular oil the old timers will tell you put 1/2 qt. trans fluid (has detergents) in the oil, drive for 25 highway miles at decent revs, then as soon as you pull in to your oil change spot drop it right then and there, hot and all.
Common physics: A liquid will always hold more of a solid (salt/sugar suspened in water, whatever) the hotter the liquid is. Therefore the hotter your oil is the more sludge and engine build-up it will hold, and the more u will eliminate.
I do this is every oil change, (probably at least 10-12 or more since I'm a nut for changing my fluids and have only had the car for 5 yrs.) and so far no problems. Even if u don't want to use the tranny fluid to flush, the hotter the oil the better.
."Hot oil drains faster and more efficiently. I only change my oil after it's been running."
Talk to any old timer and they'll tell you never use an engine flush before dropping your oil. Siloo or whatever, especially on an older engine, will break so much sludge and grime free that there's a good possibility the engine will seize(I've know people it's happened to).
I can't speak for synthetic oils, 'coz I don't know, but as far as regular oil the old timers will tell you put 1/2 qt. trans fluid (has detergents) in the oil, drive for 25 highway miles at decent revs, then as soon as you pull in to your oil change spot drop it right then and there, hot and all.
Common physics: A liquid will always hold more of a solid (salt/sugar suspened in water, whatever) the hotter the liquid is. Therefore the hotter your oil is the more sludge and engine build-up it will hold, and the more u will eliminate.
I do this is every oil change, (probably at least 10-12 or more since I'm a nut for changing my fluids and have only had the car for 5 yrs.) and so far no problems. Even if u don't want to use the tranny fluid to flush, the hotter the oil the better.
4 wheel drive, yes! 4" clearance under the chassis, oh no!
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