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if that camry has the same engine as my parents sienna minivan, its a decently fast car. great powerband.

If you want inexpensive rims, just buy rotas.

corsair wrote:That might explain the more pickup, ehh, 4EATs are more complicated than Calc and girls combined. I dont' think the fuse exsists for the 5MT cars. As for screwing the transmissions up by operating in FWD, I've heard of an SVX or two being messed up that way, but it was in conjunction with the E-brake so maybe that's why.

Would there be a way to wire an AWD disconnect in conjunction with the Ebrake engagement sensor so that the AWD disengages with the Ebrake applied for tight handbrake turns?

ripplesouth wrote:

corsair wrote:That might explain the more pickup, ehh, 4EATs are more complicated than Calc and girls combined. I dont' think the fuse exsists for the 5MT cars. As for screwing the transmissions up by operating in FWD, I've heard of an SVX or two being messed up that way, but it was in conjunction with the E-brake so maybe that's why.

Would there be a way to wire an AWD disconnect in conjunction with the Ebrake engagement sensor so that the AWD disengages with the Ebrake applied for tight handbrake turns?

If you want to kill your 4eat: wire the FWD fuse with a relay and the e-brake light (http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ht=#126560), or you could put it in neutral...
If you have a manual: push the clutch in, and hit the ebrake.

Holy old thread Batman!

Simple answer: If you're concerned about either transmission, don't pull the e-brake.

Pulling the e-brake once in a blue moon if you're at a rallyX or something probably won't do much more than regular wear-and-tear over the life of the car. I've done it once or twice, as have other people I know, and none of us have any problems.

But it is impossible for the center diff in either transmission to receive ZERO damage or wear from an e-brake pull.

Why would a handbrake pull cause damage to the automatic if Duty Solenoid C is fully active?

Pulling the e-brake often will also cause it not to work worth shit. At the end of its adjustment, mine will barely hold the car anymore and only going forward. And for whatever reason, I can't adjust the cable from the inside as the bolt will not move even with two heavy clamped vice grips and it's not rusted. Left foot braking works similar in many driving circumstances unless you're trying to pull stunts, but those are bad for your transmission and tires as well.

Wow. Who read the top of the thread? I was a badass two years ago! Rock on, Me!

I've been pulling my handbrake for tight turns more than once in a blue moon. It's useful such as when "parallel Parking." It's also faster than a 3-point turn. This technique has also saved me from getting rear ended by a truck in snowy weather. I was able to pull the ebrake and get onto a ramp on the shoulder into the mall I ws due for a massage appointment for without getting hit by the truck who was tailgating me severely. If I had slowed the car down in the truck's driving line I believe I would have got bumped.

I usually take advantage of wet or snowy weather when I'm bored. So I am doing this often, but only enough to start a slide at which point I am off the ebrake and on the gas to put some weight on the back, stop the slide, and continue point and shoot operation in a 4wheel drift.

However for extreme fun, I once did pinwheels with my subaru in the snow in a Wal-mart parking lot. Pinwheeling is turning the car on its centre axis.
It wasn't much good for the front CV Joints which now need replacing. However, it was huge fun, and For having over 300,000KM this car Rocks!

Today the only problem is that there's not much power to the rear end when I am launching the car from a standing start or trying to get unstuck in the snow or other embarrasing situation.

The rear end has no push, the center diff or something under my ass makes a great howling sound like the Banchee Witch. I think I need to look at either the wheel bearings, electronic clutch pack on centre diff, solenoid C, or my psychiatrist. I don't know where to start.

The rear wheel bearings on older subarus are undersized. My rear diff has quite a bit of slack in it from the high mileage. I recently changed the fluids in all 3 differentials at 300,000KM . I think the transmission and the center differential clutch pack share the same fluid. All work was done by a Subaru dealer.

Next week I am going to test out the system with a multimeter to ensure the right voltage is headed to duty solenoid C under full throttle.

evolutionmovement wrote:Pulling the e-brake often will also cause it not to work worth shit. At the end of its adjustment, mine will barely hold the car anymore and only going forward. And for whatever reason, I can't adjust the cable from the inside as the bolt will not move even with two heavy clamped vice grips and it's not rusted. Left foot braking works similar in many driving circumstances unless you're trying to pull stunts, but those are bad for your transmission and tires as well.

I am not pulling the ebrake "hard" i am only pulling it enough to respond to steering input in order to get the right amount of oversteer.

yes I could disable ABS but I use this car on the street as a daily driver and I don't want to cause any bodily harm or property damage by losing my driving line. I bought the car so I can play around sometimes.

Trail braking does work on this car even with the abs enabled, where you swing the steering wheel and just before weight is fully shifted to the outside tires you are on the brakes to create an oversteer. It's not the most effective because about half or one second later the rear ABS kicks in and stops the trail braking.

My main goal right now is to learn power slides so I need good rear end torque and proper ebrake technique.

evolutionmovement wrote:Pulling the e-brake often will also cause it not to work worth shit. At the end of its adjustment, mine will barely hold the car anymore and only going forward. And for whatever reason, I can't adjust the cable from the inside as the bolt will not move even with two heavy clamped vice grips and it's not rusted. Left foot braking works similar in many driving circumstances unless you're trying to pull stunts, but those are bad for your transmission and tires as well.

I don't care if the ebrake doesn't work worth shit because that's easy to repair. But pulling the ebrake so that the 4EAT doesn't work worth shit now that's more expensive.

So..... if pulling the E-brake to turn can kill your center diff, why aren't all new members forcibly brought to a topic about it upon registration? And it's not even in the Stuff you need to know forum! Some people buy these cars specifically for getting sideways, and unless someone tells me otherwise, that means ripping the E-brake hard to kick the tail out at almost every turn-in, since there's just a tad too much lag in the throttle-oversteer (no good for tight turns). The fact that the rally drivers all do it this way doesn't help....

I just read about this phenomena at a rally forum, and did a search trying to see why in the world I haven't heard about it on here, which brought me to this topic. Get the word out people

The center diff thing's been mentioned several times before, but my particular point, not surprisingly misunderstood, is that STUNTS, such as J-turns, are bad for your transmission and tires (as the sentence originally reads). I have a manual fwd so the center diff doesn't matter to me (it was a choice between either a manual or awd when I bought the car. The only awd manual around when I needed to get a car was that shitty lavender color they had).

My first post was kind of a scared reaction since I just heard about it and hadn't seen it mentioned before, and ofcourse I happen to be one of those e-brake stunt yahoos But I've only actually done 1 e-brake stunt in my Touring Wagon, and it reacted unfavorably to the abuse and I'd never try it again. And even though I said just the opposite above, I don't actually use the e-brake to get sideways (unless I really have to, but it's usually only a split second and doesn't even always lock both rear wheels), power oversteer is like a hundred bajillion times funner And I'd imagine most owners with AWD cars would have similar experiences.

Though, it still makes sense to have it's own sticky in the Stuff you Need to Know forum IMO....

had to post this
and e-brake +4eat= 5speed swap very soon

So does that mean your main point is that for proper control of oversteer+getting sideways ON PURPOSE one needs excellent throttle response.

If so...How do rally car drivers ensure their engines have instantaneous throttle response?


And are you also saying that the time between the e-brake application and the engine countering and terminating the drift with more torque/weight to the rear axle is too long to make a predictable rear-steer work well?

StartRestart wrote:

azn2nr wrote:i blew my tranny up using that fwd swich.

sorry to wander from topic.. but WHA!? how'd that happen, drive too long with it in FWD. i have a relay hooked up to my e-brake so when i pull up on my e-brake a tad the car goes into fwd , just wondering if that's how you broke your tranny. Mine has no reverse anymore, but drive gears still are good

mines the same way.

Colonel Klink FTW!!!!!