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I like those!

Car looks really good.

mike-tracy wrote:Soldered an OEM connector plug to my stereo harness... I hate it when people cut off the old plug and then do a terrible splice job. Fixed a problem I'd been having ever since I replaced my heater core (cold air leaking onto passenger feet) by aligning the "boxes" under the dash better.

Mike I'd love if u could walk me through the allignment of the air boxes underneath.... I had someone take my dash out and put it back in and cold air leaks into passenger feat as well... I can see the air gap but not sure how to go about fixing it without taking whole dash out?

A far as I know you do have to take the dash off at least a little

I loosened all 3 boxes and then worked from right to left to get the allignmnt right. I also had to replace the foam on the middle box cause it tore a little.

What part of the dash do I need to loosen or take off to get to the bolts that loosen the boxes?

A few things have changed, tinted the corner and fender lights, changed my fog lights, hooked up the sprayer nozzles on the front bumper, added a second led bulb to each tail light, and switched wheels and tires.



That's about it.

Installed a deck.. fits pretty nice with the larger pocket I had laying around. I'm pretty new to audio stuff but I'll be upgrading stuff soon.

Car is running alright but I keep blowing something open under full boost.. 16/17psi.. I think I need to tidy up my intercooler plumbing and/or replace it all.

Today i did the whole H6 rear brake upgrade it was really easy and since i have a commercial account at several autoparts stores here in my town i got the calipers with brackets new rotors and pads all for about $180 and i did the work myself i am very pleased with the results i even got my rear brakes to lock...and yes i have wrx brakes up front the fwd SVX master cylinder oh and no abs

Went to slodrive to install some goodies and give the ss a much needed pre summer checkup

Front pads and rotors
2 port oil catch can
Aftermarket tranny oil cooler
Compression and leakdown tests

All in all Greg did amazing work as usual and for owning the car officially for a year now and JUST hitting 200k......

90s range across all four cylinders and less than 10% for each cylinder for leakdown not too shabby, could be better could be way worse on the way home stopped and enjoyed some scenery

Railroadage





Slodrive shop rando's



Pullin into driveway

Replaced the lower S shaped water pump hose (not the rad hose, the little one). Car no longer needs a gallon and a half of water per day got old really quick when people kept asking if my car was broken down every time I popped the hood to add water.

Speakers installed, wiring a modest sub tommorow. Replacing windshield on friday.

Hey matt00rs25 are those Konig wheels? I feel like i've seen them before.. they look awesome.

^ they look like Rota torques to me

alexandermf wrote:What part of the dash do I need to loosen or take off to get to the bolts that loosen the boxes?

Sorry I missed this. I had the dash all the way off. The upper nuts to the boxes are completely inaccessible (to my knowlege), unless the dash comes up about 4-6".

mike-tracy wrote:

alexandermf wrote:What part of the dash do I need to loosen or take off to get to the bolts that loosen the boxes?

Sorry I missed this. I had the dash all the way off. The upper nuts to the boxes are completely inaccessible (to my knowlege), unless the dash comes up about 4-6".

Mike is correct, the dash needs to come at least most of the way out to get to the bolts that attach the boxes to the firewall. Good news, its not hard at all to do, probably a couple of hours of work as long as you keep track of screws and such pretty well.

Second the couple of hours unless you've done it a time or two.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Sweet thnx guys! I will be doing this on a nice day in the next week or so

Should I just take the whole dash out of the car or loosen it enough to access those bolts to the boxes

I'd take it all out but I hate working in tight spaces. You can really see what's going on very well with it out, and honestly you're almost there if you have it loose enough to get the upper box bolts anyway.

I agree....just take the dash out. You'll practically have it all the way out anyway, and it'll make working on things MUCH easier.

Finished the brackets for the DCCD controls, got the new DCCD Pro chip installed, and made a bracket to hold the alarm's proximity sensor.

Here are pics

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... spdswap/36


If you want the unabridged version , check out my build journal.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 15#p408915

footwell lighting, badge painting.

Got the car towed home the other day becuase it blew the u shaped coolant hose by the turbo. Rplaced the pld one with a new double wall red one. .... Then i did some painting under the hood... Cherry red....

alexandermf wrote: 90s range across all four cylinders and less than 10% for each cylinder for leakdown not too shabby, could be better could be way worse on the way home stopped and enjoyed some scenery

You're only getting 90 psi per cylinder? That's way low. Or do you mean 190? My metro is about 195psi on all 3 cylinders. My subaru with a low compression hybrid engine is about 140. I think my NA subaru was about 175.

Popped a CEL while my wife was driving to work........ On trimet to her work to pull the codes and fix. I fucking hate trimet.

It was 95 per... Ya it is low, but Greg said I shouldnt worry about it being there with the mileage and even numbers