legacycentral bbs

You know the strange part is the engine will be driving backwards from now on.
Do you think this will be a problem under accelleration as the oil is pulled up the hump and into the crank?

i guess the real issue is "do i have enough oil capacity?"

Because I chopped the oil pan basically in half in search for ground clearance. No joke, it was 3" from touching the ground before. Now it looks more like a transmission oil pan. Just 2 quarts for me, please!

Seriously, I might have to chage a few things, because it's freaking me out a little. Maybe on the next one I'll put baffles in it to keep oil off of the crank.

camshaftprelube - Do you have a way to check if the ECU is turning on the "Check Engine" light?

I don't know how big a Pulsar NX radiator is... just keep an eye on your water temperature gauge... (you installed one, right? )

ciper - You mean the engine is running facing backwards, right? Not turning the opposite direction from normal or anything like that... That's an interesting concern.

They are both on the list of things left to hook up.

would disconnecting the maf automatically throw a cel?

camshaftprelube: If you already chopped the pan why not just widen it to increase oil capacity? You arent using the legacy cross member right?

vrg3: Yeah facing backwards.

I just realized something. Our cars have the deep portion of the pan near the crank pully and the shallow portion near the transmission. Since he turned his around its actually better! Guess my point applys to a normal legacy then, under accelleration the oil will travel uphill and submerge the rear of the crank, creating foam.

THAWA - Yes, disconnecting the MAF would immediately throw a CEL.

camshaftprelube - You really should hook up the CEL. Just take a small low-wattage light bulb, connect one end to ignition-switched +12v and the other end to the "MIL" pin of the ECU.

Also connect switches between the "Read memory" and "Test mode" pins and ground so you can read CEL codes.

You probably already have this info from Kennedy, but just in case:
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/ecupins/

The light in the ecu acts like the cel sometimes, right? In which case, I have knock and MAF codes, and a dead idle air controller. The maf codes might be from when i had the wrong MaF on it, have hitachi one on it now to match the ecu.

I know the IAC is dead, because the giant vacuum leaks are the only source of air at idle

I hadn't widened the pan, because that would make the bolts that much harder to put in. I'll probably get another oil pan and pickup and take my time next time.

Ah, yes, if you have the LED in your ECU then it's probably not as critical to hook up the CEL and read and test connectors. I think the only limitations would be that you couldn't read codes stored in memory and that you won't be instantly alerted to engine management trouble (unless your ECU is in plain view when you're driving).

You should be able to clear the codes just by unplugging the battery and trying to start the car to drain all the capacitors. Then you can see what codes come back.

Why are there giant vacuum leaks? I doubt they're the only source of air, because if that were true your engine wouldn't idle since the MAF wouldn't see any incoming air.

Check this out, keep hitting next on the bottom until you get to the oil pan section.
http://home.earthlink.net/~subaruvanagon/page11.html

Nice, Ciper. Mine looks sort of similar, but I got greedy and took off too much.

Does anyone have an oil pan and pickup they want to sell?

I have a horrible rusty and dented oil pan I could give you for the price of shipping.

Steve

Will you take Paypal?

You really want it?! It's not pretty - flaking rust and the threads for the drain plug will need to be chased. Not sure how good it'll be for welding, but if you still want it yes, I can take paypal.

Steve

Yes, i'll take it. I feel better about cutting up a part that no one wants anyway.

I finally took some pics, I'll probably have them up in 3-4 hours.