legacycentral bbs

I have no idea, honestly. That was the part that Adam gave to me. He told me it was the clutch line for the turbo legacys.

When are you gonna try to tackle the clutch? I'm too lazy to look back at the thread, but I'll lend a hand where I can.

The time is unknown. All depends on the parents, and the parts, and such.

Yea, the clutch line is definately not for a Turbo Legacy. Oh well

With the 3 of you guys, plus my neighbor and I, a clutch replacement shouldn't take more than very long. Plus, it'll save me a BUNCH of cash.

Just let me know when you wanna do this. I have to make sure my schedule doesn't conflict.

Did you get to post on nabisco about the clutch/flywheel?

I made a post in a post. I don't think I'll be buying a stock clutch and flywheel.

It makes sense to just get a new setup and not worry about it anymore. There's a good deal going on now like I mentioned in the other thread. I'll probably act on that.

I'll let you guys know after I get the parts. I'd like to get it done before I go to SEMA, but that would mean that I'd have to finish it by next weekend, and that's not reasonable. ESPICALLY because the car will be in the shop getting the steering fixed and an alignment done and possibly replacing the wheel bearings.

As far as I know, every Subaru hydraulic clutch except for the ones I mentioned above uses a single clutch hose M10x1.0mm inverted flare on one end and a 10mm banjo on the other end.

What I did for my car's clutch line was to get -3 AN adapters with 10mm banjos on them and then a 14" 90-degree-to-straight -3 AN stainless steel line from Earl's. I removed the damper entirely from the car, so the line goes straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. On the WRX stock slave cylinder I used, I had to grind away a little bit of the steel around where the banjo fitting goes in order to clear the Earl's banjo, but with a different adapter or different slave cylinder that might not be necessary. The plumbing ended up costing me around $45 shipped and I have the advantage of having AN fittings. I can dig up the part numbers if you like.

Unfortunately it'll be a while before I'm in DC long enough to actually do anything other than sleep a night before driving back. It's crunch time on my thesis.

I haven't pulled a tranny from a Legacy, but I've pulled a motor, and I've pulled a tranny from a MkII Supra and also done a 5-speed conversion on another MkII Supra... the clutch job should be easy.

I'm just going to guess here, but the job should go something like this:

- Undo the strut-to-hub bolts, remove the axle spring pins, and pull the axles out of the transmission.
- Unbolt the rear driveshaft from the differential and pull it out of the transmission.
- Remove the turbo chimney, intake tubing, and washer fluid tank to give you room.
- Unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission and tie it up somewhere out of the way.
- Unbolt the pitch stop mount.
- Disconnect the transmission wiring harness connectors near the pitch stop mount.
- Unthread the speedometer cable from the transmission.
- Remove the bolts holding the downpipe to the transmission.
- Undo the two starter bolts and tie the starter up somewhere out of the way.
- Undo the four other bellhousing bolts.
- Disconnect the wiring harness connectors going to the transmission.
- Get a jack under the transmission and unbolt the transmission crossmembers from the car.
- Pull the transmission off of the engine.

There's no reason you couldn't do the clutch job by yourself in a single day
if you had a transmission jack (a hydraulic jack with casters to roll on and
a cradle meant to hold a transmission). With a couple of people you could do
it without a transmission jack. Our cars are put together very sanely.

I don't think I have the time to try and "figure out" a tranny job on my own. But between the 4 of us, we could probably figure something out.

The fitting I have must be for a standard hydro clutch for a car you didn't mention.

Oh, and all that clutch stuff you mentioned (about the lines and such), I have no idea what your talking about. I might be able to get a full hose kit for a 93 - 96 WRX for under $45.

It's starting to get slightly worse. I can feel the engagement point getting a little lower.

No Phil, I haven't really done any tranny work yet. I'm confident that we could do it though.....

lower to the floor? i thoguht that was a good thing?

Matt - I agree. The proceedure seems sound, so the practice can't deviate to much, you know? Just a matter of following things to the letter. This will be new for both of us, but it'll be a good thing to tackle. Good thing to know how to do. Plus, it's badass to say that you changed your own clutch. People know you aren't messing around if you get into that kinda thing.

Even if I'm not present you guys can feel free to call me for advice or to ask me to look something up in the FSM, too.

If you can get a full hose kit for an LHD 93-96 WRX that will work. What I was describing, though, is the setup I have on my car:

Two of Earl's part number 997631 (one for the master cylinder and one for the slave):

And one of Earl's part number 63011714 to connect them (the 90-degree end goes to the slave cylinder):

They add up to $40.07 plus shipping at Baker Precision.

This setup bypasses the clutch damper and also means that in the future you should only ever have to undo the threaded AN fittings instead of banjo fittings. AN fittings are awesome; they're designed to seal without o-rings or gaskets, they are easily tightened by hand, and they are meant to work over many connect/disconnect cycles without wearing out.

You can see how the stock setup was here:
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/clutch_hydraulics/

Don't sweat it guys, it's not that big of a deal. Keep in mind, I only did my first oil change less than 3 years ago, and I've already pulled a Subaru tranny... all by myself. I did need help putting it back in, but that was for manpower not because I didn't know what I was doing. That said, you should have more than one person. A Subaru tranny is VERY heavy; realize that it is not just a transmission but two differentials. I'm going to guess blindly, but I'd say around 150lbs.

Vikash's list is pretty much it, just a few things:

- Unbolt the rear driveshaft from the differential and pull it out of the transmission.

You don't need to undo it that far back. Just unbolt the driveshaft right behind the center bearing, unbolt the center bearing from the body, and yank the driveshaft right out of the tranny, and have a bucket underneath coz you'll probably lose a quart of gear oil out the back.

- Remove the bolts holding the downpipe to the transmission.

Now I put my 98 GT exhaust on after reinstalling the transmission, so I removed the whole entire exhaust from the car, but it might actually be easier to just remove the entire exhaust forward of the axle-back, then there will be nothing interfering with either the transmission or the driveshaft.

And Vikash, you forgot the shifter . Take the center console apart so you can take off the rubber boot underneath the outside boot. Then unbolt the shifter bracket bolts, back behind the shifter, and just let the shifter drop down with the transmission when you get it out. Careful with it though, it can get in the way.

You should probably drain the gear oil out of it too.

Good luck guys! You can do it, I got faith in ya

Hehe, oh yeah, the shifter...

And I totally forgot that the driveshaft was split behind the center bearing.

It makes sense to drain the gear oil beforehand so it doesn't spill everywhere. You get to change it, too, and the transmission will be 2 pounds lighter.

I was scoping underneath a 96 Legacy at the shop that welded my IC pipe for me. It seemed like he had no problem pulling the tranny, and it didn't look all to complicated. He did pull the exhaust though, which is reasonable considering the exhaust runs right underneath the driveshaft.

I think between Matt and I, there should be NO problem getting this thing done. Espically if he can bring those pimp ass new Jackstands he's got so we can get the whole car off the ground.

Vikash - I don't know my way around the clutch system, but you explained it enough that I got the jist of it. AN fittings sound pretty cool. I coulda used those on my mountain bike. Woulda made fluid changes REAL easy. Just drain the system, pull the lines, run them through with alcohol, then fill it all back up.