legacycentral bbs

just-rust wrote:

Legacy777 wrote:

just-rust wrote:Quick question: Will my steering wheel be off a bit if my alignment is screwed up in the back?

If you mean, will your steering wheel not be centered properly, then no it shouldn't be affected by how the rear is setup.

That's not what I was hoping the answer would be! Every fix seems to start a mini domino effect.

Is your steering wheel not centered any more?

My steering wheel is off about 10 degrees to the left now. Was fine before I worked on it. I am bringing it in for an alignment tomorrow so I will know for sure then. If all is good I will pop the wheel off and re-align it. Thanks for the advice!

Did this yesterday. Sounds awesome! Cant decide if I want to install the pill on the BPV hose or not. Kinda like the sound but will probably get sick of it in a few weeks.



So how am I supposed to plumb the vac lines to the evap canister since the Apexi is missing a nipple. Can I just T it into the line for the BCS? Or, since I am using an MBC, can I just cap off the port to the stock BCS and run the canister to that nipple on the Apexi coffee can?

If you're running the MBC, you can run the third line to the nipple on the Apexi coffee can. I'm assuming you're talking about the nipple that is opposite of the IAC inlet pipe?

I like that you still have the turbo chimney on your car GTEASER. Wish my car had come with one.

I got my alignment and they said they were able to get the new driver side lateral link adjusted to spec but couldn't adjust the passenger side link far enough and I am half a degrees off. No big deal I assume. Now my steering wheel is slightly off center in the opposite direction. lol It drives straight and all of these new bushings have made a really big difference in the handling.

Legacy777 wrote:If you're running the MBC, you can run the third line to the nipple on the Apexi coffee can. I'm assuming you're talking about the nipple that is opposite of the IAC inlet pipe?

Yes, thats the nipple I am talking about. I asked if it was okay to take the vacuum line off the stock bcs because I wasn't sure if it needed to get a reference pressure to keep from confusing the ECU, but it sounds like it doesnt so I will just cap it and use the nipple on the coffee can for the evap hose. Yes, boist is controlled by the Hallman and the two side ports on the stock bcs are already capped. Thanks Josh!

As long as you keep the line coming from the intake manifold to the pressure exchange solenoid and the MAP sensor the ECU will be happy.

Where are the MAP sensor and pressure exchange solenoid located?

Left strut tower looking into the engine bay.

Slightly left of and above the bcs then, right? thanks!

Pressure exchange solenoid is the brown solenoid under your MBC and the map is the black sensor left of it.

Thanks! You guys are a huge help when it comes to learning all of this quickly.

Started the Magnecore wire and MSD coil install last night but stopped when I saw this. Why are there different boots on the two pairs of wires?

NVM, I did a little searching around and found a few pics. The wires with the 90 degree ends go on the throttle cable side of the motor so that the wires pass under the cables.

Oil change, cut off a heat shield on the cat, and I'll be putting in 04 Forester seats tonight!

GTEASER wrote:NVM, I did a little searching around and found a few pics. The wires with the 90 degree ends go on the throttle cable side of the motor so that the wires pass under the cables.

Are you installing a different coil with different ends (male vs. the stock female ends)?

Yup. MSD Dodge Neon coil. I thought I had mentioned that, but I guess I didnt..

On another note.... I am working on planning my ZT-3 wideband install. I saw someone on here that powered their wideband controller with the stock O2 sensor 12v at the harness connector, grounded it there too, and sent the narrow band signal from the controller back to the ECU from that connector as well. Clean install. Thing is, they did it as a temporary connection for tuning, not a permanent install. Since the ZT-3 is internally protected with a self resetting 4A fuse, I would like to do this too using the stock O2 sensor connector. Looking over the wiring diagram in the service manual, it looks like the B wire on pin 4 is the signal back to the ECU and is shielded as it goes there, but I cant figure out which wire, the BW on pin 1 or the YR on pin 2, is 12v power since they both go back to the Ignition Relay. I know I could just test it with a multitester but I haven't yet because I wanted to get some more thoughts on this course of install and to make sure I am reading the wiring diagram correctly and thinking this thru all the way. Looking forward to input and a clean simple install.

The YR wire on pin 2 is the 12v power for the heater circuit while the BW on pin 1 is ground for the heater circuit.

Are you planning on tapping into those wires at the ECU or in the engine bay? I wouldn't recommend putting the box/wires in the engine bay. You can do everything you need to do in the cabin.

Thanks for the confirmation on the 12v and ground wires.

I will put the ZT-3 controller in the cabin in the glove box or under the dash somewhere, but since I have to run wire to the dog bone area in the engine compartment where the O2 harness plug is anyway for my oil pressure sender, I figured I would just run the 12v power, ground, and narrow band signal wire from the ZT-3 to the stock harness and keep the install clean using factory connectors rather than tapping into the signal wire under the dash and finding an alternative accessory power source. I can harvest the stock connector off the stock O2 sensor.

My MO is usually to find a way to NOT cut, splice into or tap factory wiring if possible, even if it requires longer wire runs. That's not always possible, but I try.

Soooo 2015 STi w/ brand new temp tags - 0, 1993 impreza - 1.
But something a bit odd, this 2015 Sti blew its engine. I mean I heard some bad knocking noises followed by metal parts hitting the road. It had to pull over, but I wasn't in a position to pull over and help, I had to keep going.
Thinking this guy drove his new car like d-bag and hence the blow. Or new Subaru problems.

Ouch!

Found a broken connection going to my fuel pump. Fixed it and am back on the road!

Primed my hood, not happy...

Have been slowly swapping the transmission in my outback. New tranny is in, just need to do the button up work including exhaust and etc. Sunday afternoon I'll be driving her again.

Went to the junkyard today and scored a factory rear diff protector, as well as the aluminum WRX style aluminum pedal covers. Outback gets the protector and SS gets the covers!