CFK's 92 SS Daily/Project (Video & Pics added Mar/31)

[CFK]

You are correct Josh. I Sanded and re-painted every piece of trim on the exterior of the car with Pro-form Satin European Fill & Flex Bumper paint ( rattle cans ). It all turned out awesome due to all my careful prep work. I am vey pleased with the result

And yes the shifter U-Joint is the regular Subaru unit

[CAV3MAN227]

-Your car is looking awesome. Great job!

-Joe

[Legacy777]

You are correct Josh. I Sanded and re-painted every piece of trim on the exterior of the car with Pro-form Satin European Fill & Flex Bumper paint ( rattle cans ). It all turned out awesome due to all my careful prep work. I am vey pleased with the result

And yes the shifter U-Joint is the regular Subaru unit

Ok, yeah it did turn out very nice!

[CFK]

Finally Got it on the Road for an Alignment today, unfortunately the CEL, ABS lights came on and the Speedo/Odometer stopped working so I could not take it through Emissions. It is also making a terrible Screeching/Squealing Noise as soon as there's load, the more boost the louder it gets

Thought it was the Diverter/Bypass Valve, so I changed it to an aftermarket Forge 007 Valve. No change, Boost Leak maybe Then later on the way home it started, misfiring, backfiring, low idle, oil light flickering, then stalling Just running like a Bag of Anus





Oh well, Off to Oregon. FIO when I get back

[CAV3MAN227]

-Wow, I think that color looks great on it! Good job and hope you get the little issues figured out.

-Joe

[kimokalihi]

Better put some mud flaps on. I already see dirt on that fresh paint!

[nosyt]

sucks to hear its running like that man ! the paint and wheels look really good

[SILINC3R]

looks great man, hopefully you can get it fixed soon.

[Legacy777]

Is your car an AT or MT? If it's an AT, there is a base piece that screws into the transmission that typically fails.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... lebase.jpg

[CFK]

Thanks guys, I didn't have any time to take a look at any of the issues. Besides installing a new Aftermarket Diverter valve. A Forge 007. We thought my valve wasn't holding back boost and just fluttering making that terrible screaching noise, like a Lysolm Supercharger. But it didn't make a difference

It is a 5MT, I was positive it worked when I brought it home. So not sure what I did. Only changed the shifter linkage.

Guess that's what happens when you polish a Turd, kinna wish I just rebuilt the engine after all that work. Went FMIC and standalone or rob tune. But either way there's always gonna be issues. Oh well. I'll take a look after I get back from my road trip !

[Legacy777]

Ok, well check the cable to see if it's still in good shape. If the cable's broken, that's a pretty easy fix.

[xise]

sounds like you are having ALL of the same issues from when I got mine running again, speedo most like what Josh said about the speed cable adapter on the trans end OR it is a short cable (much shorter than the MT one) so it could have just popped loose from the back of the gauge cluster.

did you check the codes yet? if not check here so we can get a better idea of what is going on,
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
good old OBD1 and it's blinky light codes

I still have my ABS light on...my car it's the rear sensor(s) the brackets are rusty and most likely broke the wire....good like with the little BS things

[matt00rs25]

Mines the same way with the abs. I actually really prefer none.

[CFK]

Alright Im back from Oregon and now with 2 cars to fix lol Audi luckily broke down on the way back about a Mile after crossing the border. Hopefully have it fixed by tonight.

So I had a chance to scan the codes :

22- Knock Sensor
24- IAC Inoperable
33- Vehicle Speed sensor

So I changed the Knock sensor to another used one i had , no visual cracks. Still Codes, so Im pretty sure its actually Knocking Not sure what to do about that, got a Innovative W/B. Should probably see what it's doing.

When I was cleaning up the car I disassembled the IAC, Cleaned it and ohmed out the solenoid, which was good. So I guess I will grab the one from the spare motor, clean and install that one. see what happens. Or see what a new one costs, but I don't imagine thats very cheap

Found the Speedo Cable Detached from the cluster, so I will have to get it reattached, very hard to get your hand up in there to pull it forward and reattach, but I will try it again.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated, Thanks

[mike-tracy]

For the speedo cable, I pushed as much through the firewall as possible, then it was easy to reach. Then again, I cut my teeth on 80s volvos, whose mech speedo setup (and whole under the dash, come to think of it) was designed by a sado-machocist. Those speedos had renowned problems (such as stripping the gears if you reset the trip odometer while in motion ) leaving about 1% of volvo 240s on the road today with a working one, lol.

What's wrong with mit der Audi?

[CFK]

Had it outside, and apparently the Sunroof still leaks after dismantling and re-sealing it, plus blowing out the drains

The Audi Had a Coolant Flange crack, which I had just replaced 6 months ago. Stupid plastic

The alignment needed to be done cause I just did all the front control arms (8) , sway bar endlinks etc. But I didnt wanna align it until I Lowered the coilovers. Doing 60 MPH on the sand in oregon and gettin sideways might have thrown it out. Cause it was very shaky from Astoria till it broke down at the truck crossing. Usually the O-ring holder on the flange disintigrates, but it cracked, so I don't know. Just wish they made it from metal

[Legacy777]

Reset the ECU after you fix the speedo and see what codes come back.

If you still have the knock sensor code, check the resistance on the knock sensor wiring from the sensor to the ECU to make sure it's good.

[CFK]

Ya I Really don't wanna have to change that IAC, a new one Is $275 and an old one might just do the same thing. The speedo cable shouldn't have anything to do with the IAC should it ?

Once the car is hot, that's when it's starts idling low and when you pull up to a stop it stalls out.

I will check those tonight hopefully, plus I got a new coupling for the TMIC since the old one is kinna mangled and might be the cause of my boost leak

Thanks Josh

[sqc151]

wow, that color shoulda came stock on that car back in the 90s... shit looks great, the wheels set it off nicely too.

[CFK]

Thanks, It was actually Fait. I just called the paint store and they told me it was more $ to flatten the paint< I said Forget that noise ! As I was pulling up in the parking lot , there it was, a Nissan Cube in that Moss Green. Under flat light it looks flat, but when the sun hits the Gold pearl pops, suits the wheels nicely I feel

So I did some Investigating, Decided to clean a bunch of Grounds and re-attach the Speedo Cable. Re-set the ECU and took her for a spin. No CEL , but still idled rough, some intermittent stalling and oil light flickering still.

Turned up the idle, which helped until the fan kicked in, revved it up with our ear to the bay. POW, Felt some Boost to the Face Big leak from the Aluminum bypass valve flange, Cheap EBAY Sh!t, That should take care of the loud Boost Whistle, will grab a factory gasket tomorrow !

If I get rid of those pesky dash lights I can take her for "aircare" and Insure er , until then she remains in the Garage I was ready to just disconnect the dash bulbs since there's no ODD II and they just put it on the rollers and do a Sbiffer test, but it still has to pass an Idle test. Plus I think they Fail it with any lights present

[CFK]

MOTOR BLOWN

Ok, so everything was great after re-connecting the speedo cable. All codes cleared, none returned. Took it for emissions testing, Failed. Passed idle test and hydrocarbons, but failed carbon monoxide. So I was able to get 3 months insurance and would have to get the hydrocarbons sorted by then. Drove it on Saturday and Sunday, everything was going smoothly as long as I left the boost at 10 psi as it would studder over that even with the FCD.

So I let the wife take it to work Monday, Tuesday. Got a call that it started making a terrible Racket on her make home so she pipped over. When I got there it fired up and sounded like a rod was gonna shoot through the block Didn't even make it 500 Kms , the motor had 255 000 Kms ( 159K Miles ) and new it could blow at any moment, but I didn't expect it to be that quick, there was no knocking or anything, pulled great.

The only issues that I knew of where hesitation on full throttle, and oil light flickering when it began to idle low.

So I have a spare EJ22T in my shed that I will be doing a leak down test and if all goes well I will be changing as many external seals as possible , STI oil pump, swap over my new water pump and timing belt kit. Nice Clutch and rear main etc.

If anyone else can add to my parts list or send me a link with someone else's engine build that has one and part #'s etc that would be great

I am extremely frustrated and upset as I have already dumped way to much time and $ into this thing and although I would love to go with a DOHC / TD05 / FMIC / Rob Tune, there is just no more Budget for that !

Thanks for listening

[cj91legss]

Thats too bad. I hope everything works out for you.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[nosyt]

that blows man. let me know if you need any parts as i may have some stuff kicking around ill help out where possible

[CFK]

Ya it not stoked indeed ! I'm just gathering a full parts list together. Think I'm gonna pull the heads to replace the HG's , get the heads rebuilt and leave the block as is if it checks out. Seems like quite the hassle to swap to DOHC, plus losing the low end. So I was thinking of slapping the TD05 / 440's on and going Rob Tune while I'm at it. Would really to throw in some Delta re-grinds but it already failed Aircare as is !

I'm really torn as I don't wanna spend the $ on a block year down if i don't have to. Otherwise I will be blowing the bank on forged rods and pistons. I feel that the TD05 / 440's should still feel great with SOHC's as long as its tuned better than the factory

Any one know how many people have coverted to Rob Tune on SOHC ?

[Legacy777]

Any idea how many miles are on the spare ej22t you have? I'd do a compression and leak down test and if it checks out ok, I'd just save your pennies and slap it in with the normal seal work done on it.

From my experience, unless you're going to have the heads and block machined, I wouldn't bother removing the heads unless there was a specific issue that you identified during the leakdown test.