legacycentral bbs

0w-30, XD-3 Diesel engine oil.. I think its called something else now though..
synthetic, has to meet more stringent engine standards (since its primarily for diesels) then Mobile 1 and is basically half the cost.
Just don't get the fancy stickers and advertising..
Oh and sometimes you can only buy it by the 4L or larger haha..

kimokalihi wrote:

Falken-18c wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWc2vE8L8vY

Jesus pours cheap oil in your engine and then beats the living daylights out of your horn while rubbing dirt and oil from his shoes into your floor mat and his goons slam the shit out of your doors. Nice.

I thought the same thing... those poor doors.

10W-30 Valvoline Max Life high mileage and the highest filter Fram offers.

I only use subaru filters. Check out this oil filter comparison.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... oil+filter

lucas wrote:talked to the parts guy at the local subaru dealer and the new FA or FB style engines will be running a 0w-? weight oil. on an unrelated note lol

Interesting. I wish my oil filter was on top of my engine.

I use any name-brand synthetic 10W-30 in my Touring Wagon. I use 100% of my powerband regularly, so I figure the added heat tolerance is beneficial. I've had issues with dino oil sludging in n/a motors before, granted those were a Chrysler and a Volkswagen so it probably wasn't the oil's fault lol.

still not liking that brz car. the filter mounted of top is another toyota raping of a subaru product

lucas - To me the oil filter on top looks like a good thing. Isn't it gonna make filter changes easier and less messy?

Well, the filter's always been right next to the drain plug.
You get everything done at once. I dont know...I guess
I just think that's how it should be since it's always been
like that as long as I've owned Subaru's haha

Then again, I'll never be able to afford that BRZ anyway
so it's no big deal to me.

My issue with the filter on the top is now you have a filter that drains when shut off. So filters with anti-drain back valves should be used. How many people are not going to know the difference and just put whatever filter in. Even with the anti-drain back valve, I prefer the vertical mounted filter on the bottom.

I guess that's a good point -- it can make a crappy filter into a bigger problem.

Is it plausible thatthe engine has something better than a disposable anti-drainback valve installed?

Your guess is as good as mine...but I would guess it probably doesn't.

mobil 1 full synth
oem filters
change every 5k/5months

in all my vehicles

Mobil 1 10W30 full synth(use it in every vehicle, Fram tough guard filter(only one with anti drain back valve) and Fram tough guard air filter(slight oiled and stiffer pleats). I drive this car hard and pound red line regularly all winter and then it sits all summer-so i change oil every 2,000 miles.

Nothing more satisfying than draining the oil and it being slightly darker and yeah i know it is a waste to do it this way, i am over it. As for the reliability of filters, i don't much care. If i ever have a motor go out and i can somehow trace it back to a cheap filter, then i will rebuild or replace it and move on. I drive N/A so they are much more reliable and CHEAPER to replace.

I am not trying to shoot anyone down, give anybody a hard time or make light of anything. I am simply stating that most motors are designed to be a daily driver motor, then we modify and beat the hell out of them. So if its going to break its going to break. Just like i don't understand when people complain about having to replace wheel bearings after 2 years of hard driving. Use it, break it, burn it, blow it, replace it, get over it and MOVE ON!!!!

I use royal purple for all my fluids!

I use Castrol synthetic 0w30 European formula with a Bosch filter. No complaints, runs much smoother than dino oil.

SWRT wrote:Well, the filter's always been right next to the drain plug.
You get everything done at once. I dont know...I guess
I just think that's how it should be since it's always been
like that as long as I've owned Subaru's haha

Then again, I'll never be able to afford that BRZ anyway
so it's no big deal to me.

It's ~$24k, even if you can't afford it new I can't imagine you not being able to afford it when they've been out for a few years...For reference that's less than a Bugeye was new, and look at how much they're worth now.

FWIW ... my "other" car is a 2008 tacoma with the filter top mounted. When I change my filters they come off full. But I only ever use OEM filters from the dealer on all my vehicles. So presumably the Toyota filter is anti-drainback or they have some other mechanism in there keeping my filter from running dry

I would be leary about the non-anti-drainback (double negative? lol) filters as well.

It does make oil changes pretty amazing though. I get oil everywhere with my 1992 legacy and my wifes 2008 OBS

-So reading all the posts in this thread, seems like mobile 1 syn (10-30w), royal purple, and Subaru oil filters are the winners. But my question is, why 10-30w?

-I've been taking my 92ss to the dealership for its oil changes and I believe there bulk is 5-30w, but now, as I'm getting closer to my next oil change, I'm going to start doing it myself, hence why this thread caught my attention. I still plan on using Subaru oil filters, but this thread will help me make a better decision on what type of oil to use next. I first thought of using Valvoline 5-30w high mileage, since my car has 213,xxx miles on it, but seems like no one uses the semi synthetic, its regular or full synthetic. Guess I'll have to make up my mind soon!

-Joe

I dont have a problem with blends. Honestly I get
synthetic cause it lasts a long time and I have
connections. Other than that I just used the
regular 10w-30 in my good engines and 20w-50
in my not-so-good engines.

The anti-drain back valves in the oil filters are really only necessary if your oil filter does not sit vertically with the base of the filter pointing down. If it sits like this, the oil just drains back into the filter. It's great.

Any filter that sits sideways or upside down should have an anti-drainback valve.

I make the least amount of mess with my Subarus when changing the oil & filter. It's a piece of cake.

As for the viscosity, the owner's manual states to use 10w30, and that 5w30 can be used but not for extended high speed driving. I'm sure that 5w30 is fine. Oil technology has gotten better in the 20+ years since these motors were built.

Also, the reason you see the recommendations for lower viscosity oil is that oil clearance tolerances in engines have gotten smaller. Also, the lighter viscosity is more fuel efficient. I personally run 10w30 in mine.

castrol syntec 10w30 and OEM subaru blue filter
swear by it

-Makes more sense now. Think I will change my oil now. Thinking of going with mobile 1 or royal purple depending on prices. Now to decide, synthetic or non-synthetic! ...choices!

-Joe

Mobil 1 0w30 with extended gard fram filter every 3000 miles (every 7 to 20 days) with no issues. No leaks dosn't burn any but trying to get best mileage. I have somewhat high miles on all my cars. Just look at GOT MILES thread.

-I can now officially say Subaru filter with Royal Purple 5-30w.

-Joe

You want the thinnest oil you can get, that will still get the right pressure at all RPM.

I go by the rule of 10 psi per 800 rpm with a starting point of 15psi or so at idle. That adds up to 90psi at 6k rpm. Higher pressure is not automatically better because high pressure means restricted flow. Oil not only lubricates but removes localized heat. If you aren't staying at high load for extended periods you could probably get away with 0w-20 but a real pressure gauge is necessary.