legacycentral bbs

I should look into the Maglight mount. I got three 2aa ones in my room, one led swapped and the other two stock. Time to get a mount for one, put it on the drivers door somewhere, and put the led one in the holder. I've kinda got a first aid kit in the multi box in the trunk, I just need to add some wrap stuff and a more band aids.

Finished the grounding mod with good results

I have no first aid kit or mag lights and man...your back seat looks clean. Mine is holding a full size 16" spare and my
other side has 3 tool bags full of sockets, wrenches, vice grips...I have a lot of stuff in them to say the least and I have a fire extinguisher back there. The best flashlight I have is a duracell one from 1960 that I got from a yard sale I should really find a way to use those back seats. I wish I had a more effective way to keep my tools. I considered taking out the rear black tool box they include above the spare tire and putting my full size spare in there, but it doesnt fit over the carpet covering without lifting it up.

originalcyn wrote:Silicone Lubricant on the sun roof to try and stop that infernal squeaking noise

Sup Everett buddy? Looks like a clean car you've got there.

Did the Silicon lube stop the squeaking? I am plagued by a couple rubbery-sounding squeaks myself.

Que Pasa? Thanks, i love her to death.

As far as the squeaking, it helps a bit. I'm going to try to apply it every day for a week or something like that, but in general, it didn't completely get rid of the squeak and it seems to wear out after like 2 weeks.

ericem suggested to use the silicone lubricant that you buy at a nissan dealership (There's one on Everett Mall Way). It did work better than the auto store brands, but it still doesn't seem to be a complete solution. Anyways, just spray on to a rag and wipe down the seal of the sun room. I've also been wiping down the inside metal around the sunroof, just to see if it helps.

originalcyn wrote:Que Pasa? Thanks, i love her to death.

As far as the squeaking, it helps a bit. I'm going to try to apply it every day for a week or something like that, but in general, it didn't completely get rid of the squeak and it seems to wear out after like 2 weeks.

ericem suggested to use the silicone lubricant that you buy at a nissan dealership (There's one on Everett Mall Way). It did work better than the auto store brands, but it still doesn't seem to be a complete solution. Anyways, just spray on to a rag and wipe down the seal of the sun room. I've also been wiping down the inside metal around the sunroof, just to see if it helps.

I live in Lake Stevens across the Hwy2 trestle but work on Grand in Everett. That's what I meant by "Everett buddy".

I might try that. My squeaking seems to have started after I used some rubber seal conditioner on my seals while detailing the car. I may just need to clean mine off with alcohol or something and get rid of the film I'm sure it left.

Actually, now that i think about it, i think my squeaks started after conditioning it too. I'm not sure how good alcohol would be for the seals though.

Lost my clutch master cylinder in the 91 and had to get it towed home. What a swell way to start the weekend.

Mocked these up. I really dig the look. HIDs are already installed and I already have a few installation ideas. One being, cut the end off to use the stock corner lights then add some studs to the back for the stock Legacy location. The other being, bake them, take the projector and high beam and drop those in a gutted Legacy housing. The second one seems more logical but harder.



What do you guys think of these lights on my car?

love the mental images I get thinking about your project. For my money id gut an existing housing then mount the three little lights diagonally like they are and two of the bigger ones per side. seems to me modifying the existing case would take a ton of time and efforts. fitting, re fitting, fitting again, and well,,, the case doesnt fit well in the cars body lines. just seems to me be easier and end up with a better looking end result modifying a set of stock legacy housings. Might just be me though. also... any of the lights in the projector housing turn signals?

Modding a facelift car should be easy. Doing something about the flutes, not as much. One guy here had some success sanding them, but mine came out hazy when I tried it. If you want to buy a plastic welder, you can cut the face off the lens and weld clear polycarbonate in its place, however, I don't know how curved the facelift lenses are—the more curved, the harder it will be since bending PC with a heat gun isn't easy. If you get it too hot, it outgasses, too cold and it doesn't do anything, not spread out enough and the radius of the curves will be too tight, plus the shit cools off quickly and the line between too hot and too cold is small.

But I thought of a little less aesthetically pleasing way to do the above much easier, quicker, and cheaper—do the same thing, but use acrylic instead of polycarbonate. You won't be able to weld it to the OEM PC lens surround (which makes this much cheaper because you won't have to get a welder and acrylic itself is also cheaper), but you could use an adhesive/sealer around the rim of the OEM lens and stick the acrylic on top. The acrylic is not as impact resistant as PC (so a big rock or something could break them, but with the curves in it and such it should be plenty strong for all but a big chunk of gravel), but you can polish out scratches and pits easier, it's super easy to bend, and if you use a sealer that can be removed or devise some kind of clips to hold the lens on, you can swap them out when they eventually get trashed (if you even have the car that long). This sounds more complicated than it is and this operation should only take a couple hours. You want UV resistant acrylic.

Also see: Hella 90mm projector thread.

I finished my exhaust today!!! 3" TBE welded down to a Stock 06 WRX muffler. No more Defective Exhaust tickets for me.

Anyways, i have only welded 3-4 times in the last year or 2 so im not that great at welding. I do have a few pin hole leaks but i will take care of those later on down the road.







Also used the last of my header wrap tape today on my downpipe.

Started blacking out the chrome trim on the 91 today, also put more of the small interior trim back in just got the column trim left and all the 94 interior is installed.

FINALLY started painting the upper window trim that goes along the pillar, over the side windows, and around the triangle window. Sanded the hell out of them, 3 coats of primer, and doing 3-4 coats of paint. never wanna have to do this again lol.
Should I do a coat of clear coat too or no?

Youd better put 3 coats of clear or it will fade and look like ass. Should have electrical taped them like i just did a few days ago. Turned out amazing. Cant even tell.

I thought u said u took them off as well? Your the one that told me how to take them off lol

Matt, i remember when i re-painted the window trim on my white wagon... even tho i sanded it flaked off the trim. I didn't use primer, but i had 3-4 coats of black on there with no clear...

use the clear, you'll be happier

Mattheww044 wrote:I thought u said u took them off as well? Your the one that told me how to take them off lol

Yeah i had everything off last week but that was to paint the roof.

point taken. Bought some clear coat. I'll do 3 or 4 coats and that should be plenty
Thats 3 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint, and probably 4 coats of clear coat.

Sounds good. Post pics.

Cross-posting this from my build thread...

Saw the result of Kimo's 3M headlight job and remembered how much Piddster liked the 3M kit so I decided to try it myself. I work in an auto body shop so I could have easily done it at work with our industrial grade 3M stuff. I wanted to find out how good this kit was from the auto parts stores so I picked it up for $18 with my discount.

Left Side Before



Right Side After



Turn Signal Before



Turn Signal After



I was quite amazed with the kit. All of the sand paper was industrial grade auto body stuff and not the cheap parts store shit. The buffing pad was the same too, everything was just smaller. To put it in perspective, each sheet of sand paper we use at the shop costs us $1 or more, the 3000 grit trizact sheets cost $6 per sheet. The rubbing compound is more than $100 per gallon. So this $20 retail kit is well worth the money, and it actually makes the process quicker having a smaller buffing pad on the old ass 91 headlights with the nipples on them. It took me ~2 hours and 3 beers to do both headlights and the turn signals. I went through 2 charges on my non-lithium battery on my drill and 1 charge on a lithium battery to finish them. (charging time is included in the 2 hours)

I also covered the 2 chrome strips on the tail lights with electrical tape, still gotta do the bumper chrome but I like the tail lights a lot better now.

Just finished this decent Photobucket chop of how I figure my headlights should look. What do you guys think now?

Deride: Dang...that turned out nice. You can really see a huge difference in the turn signals. Thanks for the info too. I've been using that 3M kit for a while now and I'm glad to know it's worth the money cause I was looking for alternatives.

Danny: I personally dont like the 3 small LED's on the inside. And this project may be difficult with the fluting from the lens, but even if you left it on there it'd still show up good. You probably wouldnt see the projector components inside very well unless you kept your headlights cleared like this all the time

There's also the alignment to consider. These are pretty flat faced cars compared to whatever that kit was probably designed for. Even in the PS it looks like they'll be crosseyed, so you'd have to take that into account when you mount them inside the buckets if there's no internal adjustment. Also, consider how the finished housing aligns otherwise, you might be able to get the headlights aimed right, but the buckets will not match the body lines since you'll be on the outside of the adjustment of the buckets. Ideally, probably exclusively, you'll want the lights to be able to be aligned independently of the bucket. My Hella 90mm's are independently adjustable and the project would have been a bust if they didn't and I still have to mess with getting the buckets to line up to the body lines right (this is more a result of the way the pre-facelift housing mounts to its bracket, something that the post facelift doesn't have).

Well you may be able to fabricate a straight bar or something in there if you took the front lens off, right? I mean, it wouldnt look great, but it's function > form with my car.