legacycentral bbs

Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over the four decades I have been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.

The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an easy change, and sounds like the RS is even worse.

Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The fronts are a breeze but the rears can be murder.

Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or numbered or something so you don't mix them up.

Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch any part without a reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your skin onto something, snatch away, and rake your hand open on something sharp. The plugs stay hot longer than just about anything else on the outside of the engine so they can get you too.

Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a wrench to untighten a plug, it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash your knuckles on something hard or sharp or both.

Do the front first. Just barely break them free with the wrench then feel how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After you take one out, screw it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on the threads. Notice whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up anywhere. Repeat the process with the rear.

The main reason for this exercise is to learn the "feel" and direction of each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much as possible because with the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread the hole without knowing it till it's too late, when you have the mechanical advantage of a wrench, and really jack up everything. You can't crossthread with finger pressure.

If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs right out nice and easy without any side pressure, you run a good chance of crossthreading if you use that tool to install if they're not screwed way in by hand.

Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the plug. One time I let the sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and after two hours of trying everything I had to ask the little girl next door to help me out with her tiny hands.

Good Luck

Larry Witherspoon
4260 W 182nd St.
Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
day/office phone 562-982-7720
larry.d.witherspoon@boeing.com
ssspoon@aol.com



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"Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to get a piece of rubber
radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the porcelain,about 15" long will
be enough. Good luck! Dan


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Here is something that I came up with that might be of help. On the
turbo engine I been reading plugs and have settled on NGK BKR6E11 this
is a little hotter than stock and seem to work better but this
possibly could be due to the altitude here.
AL(CO)


--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., INCEv@w... wrote:
> "Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to get a piece of
rubber
> radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the porcelain,about 15" long
will
> be enough. Good luck! Dan
>
>
> Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over the four decades
I have
> been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.
>
> The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an easy change, and
sounds
> like the RS is even worse.
>
> Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The fronts are a
breeze but the
> rears can be murder.
>
> Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or numbered or something
so you
> don't mix them up.
>
> Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch any part without a
> reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your skin onto
something, snatch
> away, and rake your hand open on something sharp. The plugs stay
hot longer
> than just about anything else on the outside of the engine so they
can get
> you too.
>
> Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a wrench to
untighten a plug,
> it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash your knuckles
on
> something hard or sharp or both.
>
> Do the front first. Just barely break them free with the wrench
then feel
> how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After you take one
out, screw
> it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on the threads.
Notice
> whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up anywhere. Repeat
the
> process with the rear.
>
> The main reason for this exercise is to learn the "feel" and
direction of
> each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much as possible
because with
> the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread the hole without
knowing it
> till it's too late, when you have the mechanical advantage of a
wrench, and
> really jack up everything. You can't crossthread with finger
pressure.
>
> If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs right out nice
and easy
> without any side pressure, you run a good chance of crossthreading
if you use
> that tool to install if they're not screwed way in by hand.
>
> Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the plug. One time I
let the
> sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and after two hours of
trying
> everything I had to ask the little girl next door to help me out
with her
> tiny hands.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Larry Witherspoon
> 4260 W 182nd St.
> Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
> day/office phone 562-982-7720
> larry.d.witherspoon@b...
> ssspoon@a...


------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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Al,

That's the stock plug for the 2.2 N/A motor. What is the benefit from running colder or hotter plugs....seen people do this....but don't fully understand the reasoning behind it.

thanks

josh

-----Original Message-----
From: milehial2000 [mailto:acroxford@hypermall.net]
Sent: Thu 4/11/2002 119 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints and cautions



Here is something that I came up with that might be of help. On the
turbo engine I been reading plugs and have settled on NGK BKR6E11 this
is a little hotter than stock and seem to work better but this
possibly could be due to the altitude here.
AL(CO)


--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., INCEv@w... wrote:
> "Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to get a piece of
rubber
> radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the porcelain,about 15" long
will
> be enough. Good luck! Dan
>
>
> Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over the four decades
I have
> been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.
>
> The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an easy change, and
sounds
> like the RS is even worse.
>
> Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The fronts are a
breeze but the
> rears can be murder.
>
> Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or numbered or something
so you
> don't mix them up.
>
> Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch any part without a
> reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your skin onto
something, snatch
> away, and rake your hand open on something sharp. The plugs stay
hot longer
> than just about anything else on the outside of the engine so they
can get
> you too.
>
> Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a wrench to
untighten a plug,
> it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash your knuckles
on
> something hard or sharp or both.
>
> Do the front first. Just barely break them free with the wrench
then feel
> how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After you take one
out, screw
> it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on the threads.
Notice
> whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up anywhere. Repeat
the
> process with the rear.
>
> The main reason for this exercise is to learn the "feel" and
direction of
> each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much as possible
because with
> the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread the hole without
knowing it
> till it's too late, when you have the mechanical advantage of a
wrench, and
> really jack up everything. You can't crossthread with finger
pressure.
>
> If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs right out nice
and easy
> without any side pressure, you run a good chance of crossthreading
if you use
> that tool to install if they're not screwed way in by hand.
>
> Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the plug. One time I
let the
> sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and after two hours of
trying
> everything I had to ask the little girl next door to help me out
with her
> tiny hands.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Larry Witherspoon
> 4260 W 182nd St.
> Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
> day/office phone 562-982-7720
> larry.d.witherspoon@b...
> ssspoon@a...


------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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and no minimums.
FREE Money 2002.
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---------------------------------------------------------------------~->

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"When the spark occurs, all the thermal energy (heat) is transferred
to the fuel/air mixture, where it initiates combustion. A hotter
spark will transfer more thermal energy and therefore accelerates
flame front propagation. The fuel is used more efficiently and engine
performance increases."

I don't personally believe that the slight increase in heat can make
that much difference... anyone have a better explanation? Anyone know
how much total energy increase there is? I don't think it makes that
much difference when you divide the relatively small amount of energy
in the spark by the relatively huge amount of air and fuel in the
chamber...

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <josh@s...> wrote:
> Al,
>
> That's the stock plug for the 2.2 N/A motor. What is the benefit
from running colder or hotter plugs....seen people do this....but
don't fully understand the reasoning behind it.
>
> thanks
>
> josh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: milehial2000 [mailto:acroxford@h...]
> Sent: Thu 4/11/2002 119 AM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints
and cautions
>
>
>
> Here is something that I came up with that might be of help.
On the
> turbo engine I been reading plugs and have settled on NGK
BKR6E11 this
> is a little hotter than stock and seem to work better but this
> possibly could be due to the altitude here.
> AL(CO)
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., INCEv@w... wrote:
> > "Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to get a
piece of
> rubber
> > radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the porcelain,about
15" long
> will
> > be enough. Good luck! Dan
> >
> >
> > Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over the
four decades
> I have
> > been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.
> >
> > The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an easy
change, and
> sounds
> > like the RS is even worse.
> >
> > Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The fronts
are a
> breeze but the
> > rears can be murder.
> >
> > Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or numbered or
something
> so you
> > don't mix them up.
> >
> > Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch any part
without a
> > reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your skin onto
> something, snatch
> > away, and rake your hand open on something sharp. The
plugs stay
> hot longer
> > than just about anything else on the outside of the engine
so they
> can get
> > you too.
> >
> > Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a wrench to
> untighten a plug,
> > it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash your
knuckles
> on
> > something hard or sharp or both.
> >
> > Do the front first. Just barely break them free with the
wrench
> then feel
> > how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After you
take one
> out, screw
> > it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on the
threads.
> Notice
> > whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up
anywhere. Repeat
> the
> > process with the rear.
> >
> > The main reason for this exercise is to learn the "feel" and
> direction of
> > each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much as
possible
> because with
> > the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread the hole
without
> knowing it
> > till it's too late, when you have the mechanical advantage
of a
> wrench, and
> > really jack up everything. You can't crossthread with
finger
> pressure.
> >
> > If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs right
out nice
> and easy
> > without any side pressure, you run a good chance of
crossthreading
> if you use
> > that tool to install if they're not screwed way in by hand.
> >
> > Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the plug. One
time I
> let the
> > sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and after two
hours of
> trying
> > everything I had to ask the little girl next door to help
me out
> with her
> > tiny hands.
> >
> > Good Luck
> >
> > Larry Witherspoon
> > 4260 W 182nd St.
> > Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
> > day/office phone 562-982-7720
> > larry.d.witherspoon@b...
> > ssspoon@a...
>
>
> ------------------------ ---------------
------~-->
> Buy Stock for $4
> and no minimums.
> FREE Money 2002.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/k6cvND/n97DAA ... /XoTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
-------~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@e...
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Altitude makes a difference... my car has noticeably more power when
I go to nebraska. Here in Boulder it's sucking less air, or less
dense air, so it makes sense. Al, are you part of the RallyCross
program out here? I'd love to see you run with us some time. We have
a race scheduled for the 28th if you're interested. Email me off-list
for details (dan@soobeerally.com or soobeerally@yahoo.com). I'm the
organizer of the events around here, so I can answer pretty much any
question you have...

BTW, I use an old piece of fuel line to grab the plugs when
installing them. Also I use anti-seizing compound instead of oil on
the threads. This seems to work well, and makes the job much easier
the next time (my mom let her SAAB rust for 2 years without driving
it... plugs I put in before came right out). I have to remove the
washer bottle on my 1990 L sedan to make the rear plug easier to get
at on that side, but the rest of them are relatively easily
accessible... if you have the exact right size extension for your
socket wrench


--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "milehial2000" <acroxford@h...> wrote:
> Here is something that I came up with that might be of help. On the
> turbo engine I been reading plugs and have settled on NGK BKR6E11
this
> is a little hotter than stock and seem to work better but this
> possibly could be due to the altitude here.
> AL(CO)
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., INCEv@w... wrote:
> > "Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to get a piece of
> rubber
> > radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the porcelain,about 15"
long
> will
> > be enough. Good luck! Dan
> >
> >
> > Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over the four
decades
> I have
> > been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.
> >
> > The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an easy change,
and
> sounds
> > like the RS is even worse.
> >
> > Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The fronts are a
> breeze but the
> > rears can be murder.
> >
> > Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or numbered or
something
> so you
> > don't mix them up.
> >
> > Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch any part
without a
> > reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your skin onto
> something, snatch
> > away, and rake your hand open on something sharp. The plugs stay
> hot longer
> > than just about anything else on the outside of the engine so
they
> can get
> > you too.
> >
> > Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a wrench to
> untighten a plug,
> > it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash your
knuckles
> on
> > something hard or sharp or both.
> >
> > Do the front first. Just barely break them free with the wrench
> then feel
> > how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After you take one
> out, screw
> > it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on the threads.
> Notice
> > whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up anywhere.
Repeat
> the
> > process with the rear.
> >
> > The main reason for this exercise is to learn the "feel" and
> direction of
> > each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much as possible
> because with
> > the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread the hole
without
> knowing it
> > till it's too late, when you have the mechanical advantage of a
> wrench, and
> > really jack up everything. You can't crossthread with finger
> pressure.
> >
> > If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs right out
nice
> and easy
> > without any side pressure, you run a good chance of
crossthreading
> if you use
> > that tool to install if they're not screwed way in by hand.
> >
> > Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the plug. One time I
> let the
> > sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and after two hours
of
> trying
> > everything I had to ask the little girl next door to help me out
> with her
> > tiny hands.
> >
> > Good Luck
> >
> > Larry Witherspoon
> > 4260 W 182nd St.
> > Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
> > day/office phone 562-982-7720
> > larry.d.witherspoon@b...
> > ssspoon@a...


------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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I can see putting a hotter plug in.....but what about a colder plug....I've heard a couple people do that.....only reasoning I can come up with is they're having issues with detonation.....but not sure.

I agree with you that a hotter plug is not really going to change the flame front velocity or anything like that. The spark plug is basically there to put enough energy (activation energy) into the air/fuel mix to ignite the mix and start it burning. In general, the faster your flame front velocity the more complete burn you recieve....you can also assume too, the air fuel are mixing more thoroughly in the cylinder if you have a faster flame front.....

I just got done with an engines class last week....some really interesting information in there. It was tailored more towards large industrial 2000+ hp engines....however an engine is an engine is an engine......

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: DNA_Man [mailto:dna_man@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thu 4/11/2002 14 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints and cautions



"When the spark occurs, all the thermal energy (heat) is transferred
to the fuel/air mixture, where it initiates combustion. A hotter
spark will transfer more thermal energy and therefore accelerates
flame front propagation. The fuel is used more efficiently and engine
performance increases."

I don't personally believe that the slight increase in heat can make
that much difference... anyone have a better explanation? Anyone know
how much total energy increase there is? I don't think it makes that
much difference when you divide the relatively small amount of energy
in the spark by the relatively huge amount of air and fuel in the
chamber...

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <josh@s...> wrote:
> Al,
>
> That's the stock plug for the 2.2 N/A motor. What is the benefit
from running colder or hotter plugs....seen people do this....but
don't fully understand the reasoning behind it.
>
> thanks
>
> josh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: milehial2000 [mailto:acroxford@h...]
> Sent: Thu 4/11/2002 119 AM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints
and cautions
>
>
>
> Here is something that I came up with that might be of help.
On the
> turbo engine I been reading plugs and have settled on NGK
BKR6E11 this
> is a little hotter than stock and seem to work better but this
> possibly could be due to the altitude here.
> AL(CO)
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., INCEv@w... wrote:
> > "Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to get a
piece of
> rubber
> > radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the porcelain,about
15" long
> will
> > be enough. Good luck! Dan
> >
> >
> > Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over the
four decades
> I have
> > been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.
> >
> > The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an easy
change, and
> sounds
> > like the RS is even worse.
> >
> > Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The fronts
are a
> breeze but the
> > rears can be murder.
> >
> > Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or numbered or
something
> so you
> > don't mix them up.
> >
> > Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch any part
without a
> > reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your skin onto
> something, snatch
> > away, and rake your hand open on something sharp. The
plugs stay
> hot longer
> > than just about anything else on the outside of the engine
so they
> can get
> > you too.
> >
> > Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a wrench to
> untighten a plug,
> > it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash your
knuckles
> on
> > something hard or sharp or both.
> >
> > Do the front first. Just barely break them free with the
wrench
> then feel
> > how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After you
take one
> out, screw
> > it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on the
threads.
> Notice
> > whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up
anywhere. Repeat
> the
> > process with the rear.
> >
> > The main reason for this exercise is to learn the "feel" and
> direction of
> > each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much as
possible
> because with
> > the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread the hole
without
> knowing it
> > till it's too late, when you have the mechanical advantage
of a
> wrench, and
> > really jack up everything. You can't crossthread with
finger
> pressure.
> >
> > If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs right
out nice
> and easy
> > without any side pressure, you run a good chance of
crossthreading
> if you use
> > that tool to install if they're not screwed way in by hand.
> >
> > Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the plug. One
time I
> let the
> > sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and after two
hours of
> trying
> > everything I had to ask the little girl next door to help
me out
> with her
> > tiny hands.
> >
> > Good Luck
> >
> > Larry Witherspoon
> > 4260 W 182nd St.
> > Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
> > day/office phone 562-982-7720
> > larry.d.witherspoon@b...
> > ssspoon@a...
>
>
> ------------------------ ---------------
------~-->
> Buy Stock for $4
> and no minimums.
> FREE Money 2002.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/k6cvND/n97DAA ... /XoTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
-------~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@e...
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

I don't think that altitude would make very much difference the
mixture should be close because the ECU receives barometric pressure
info. I just threw that in because the stock turbo plug should work
and I can't see any other reason for them being dark when I pull them
and a few other people have also commented on this. As far as
detonation goes if that occurrs it's my opinion that what is wrong in
most cases is low quality gas or to much boost. I run 15 lbs most of
the time and have run 20 at times and have no problems with detonation
although you are right a too hot of a plug will cause preignition in a
heartbeat. I was just thinking that the plug should look "good" when
pulled.
AL(CO)



--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <josh@s...> wrote:
> I can see putting a hotter plug in.....but what about a colder
plug....I've heard a couple people do that.....only reasoning I can
come up with is they're having issues with detonation.....but not
sure.
>
> I agree with you that a hotter plug is not really going to change
the flame front velocity or anything like that. The spark plug is
basically there to put enough energy (activation energy) into the
air/fuel mix to ignite the mix and start it burning. In general, the
faster your flame front velocity the more complete burn you
recieve....you can also assume too, the air fuel are mixing more
thoroughly in the cylinder if you have a faster flame front.....
>
> I just got done with an engines class last week....some really
interesting information in there. It was tailored more towards large
industrial 2000+ hp engines....however an engine is an engine is an
engine......
>
> Josh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DNA_Man [mailto:dna_man@y...]
> Sent: Thu 4/11/2002 14 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints
and cautions
>
>
>
> "When the spark occurs, all the thermal energy (heat) is
transferred
> to the fuel/air mixture, where it initiates combustion. A
hotter
> spark will transfer more thermal energy and therefore
accelerates
> flame front propagation. The fuel is used more efficiently and
engine
> performance increases."
>
> I don't personally believe that the slight increase in heat
can make
> that much difference... anyone have a better explanation?
Anyone know
> how much total energy increase there is? I don't think it
makes that
> much difference when you divide the relatively small amount of
energy
> in the spark by the relatively huge amount of air and fuel in
the
> chamber...
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <josh@s...>
wrote:
> > Al,
> >
> > That's the stock plug for the 2.2 N/A motor. What is the
benefit
> from running colder or hotter plugs....seen people do
this....but
> don't fully understand the reasoning behind it.
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > josh
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: milehial2000 [mailto:acroxford@h...]
> > Sent: Thu 4/11/2002 119 AM
> > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> > Cc:
> > Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change
hints
> and cautions
> >
> >
> >
> > Here is something that I came up with that might be of
help.
> On the
> > turbo engine I been reading plugs and have settled on
NGK
> BKR6E11 this
> > is a little hotter than stock and seem to work better
but this
> > possibly could be due to the altitude here.
> > AL(CO)
> >
> >
> > --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., INCEv@w... wrote:
> > > "Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to
get a
> piece of
> > rubber
> > > radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the
porcelain,about
> 15" long
> > will
> > > be enough. Good luck! Dan
> > >
> > >
> > > Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over
the
> four decades
> > I have
> > > been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.
> > >
> > > The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an
easy
> change, and
> > sounds
> > > like the RS is even worse.
> > >
> > > Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The
fronts
> are a
> > breeze but the
> > > rears can be murder.
> > >
> > > Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or
numbered or
> something
> > so you
> > > don't mix them up.
> > >
> > > Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch
any part
> without a
> > > reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your
skin onto
> > something, snatch
> > > away, and rake your hand open on something sharp.
The
> plugs stay
> > hot longer
> > > than just about anything else on the outside of the
engine
> so they
> > can get
> > > you too.
> > >
> > > Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a
wrench to
> > untighten a plug,
> > > it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash
your
> knuckles
> > on
> > > something hard or sharp or both.
> > >
> > > Do the front first. Just barely break them free
with the
> wrench
> > then feel
> > > how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After
you
> take one
> > out, screw
> > > it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on
the
> threads.
> > Notice
> > > whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up
> anywhere. Repeat
> > the
> > > process with the rear.
> > >
> > > The main reason for this exercise is to learn the
"feel" and
> > direction of
> > > each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much
as
> possible
> > because with
> > > the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread
the hole
> without
> > knowing it
> > > till it's too late, when you have the mechanical
advantage
> of a
> > wrench, and
> > > really jack up everything. You can't crossthread
with
> finger
> > pressure.
> > >
> > > If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs
right
> out nice
> > and easy
> > > without any side pressure, you run a good chance of
> crossthreading
> > if you use
> > > that tool to install if they're not screwed way in
by hand.
> > >
> > > Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the
plug. One
> time I
> > let the
> > > sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and
after two
> hours of
> > trying
> > > everything I had to ask the little girl next door to
help
> me out
> > with her
> > > tiny hands.
> > >
> > > Good Luck
> > >
> > > Larry Witherspoon
> > > 4260 W 182nd St.
> > > Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
> > > day/office phone 562-982-7720
> > > larry.d.witherspoon@b...
> > > ssspoon@a...
> >
> >
> > ------------------------
---------------
> ------~-->
> > Buy Stock for $4
> > and no minimums.
> > FREE Money 2002.
> >
http://us.click.yahoo.com/k6cvND/n97DAA ... /XoTolB/TM
> >
--------------------------------------------------------------
> -------~->
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email
to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@e...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@e...
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


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Hi Josh, I did think that the dark plugs were from the chip we were
talking about but other people have mentioned this also besides the
chip tends to enrich the mixture during acceration by design to try
and retain good milage and this is a consistant dark plug syndrome
high speed low speed makes very little difference. It's just that they
should look good and it could have some effect on all around
performance.
AL(CO)


--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <josh@s...> wrote:
> Al,
>
> That's the stock plug for the 2.2 N/A motor. What is the benefit
from running colder or hotter plugs....seen people do this....but
don't fully understand the reasoning behind it.
>
> thanks
>
> josh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: milehial2000 [mailto:acroxford@h...]
> Sent: Thu 4/11/2002 119 AM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints
and cautions
>
>
>
> Here is something that I came up with that might be of help.
On the
> turbo engine I been reading plugs and have settled on NGK
BKR6E11 this
> is a little hotter than stock and seem to work better but this
> possibly could be due to the altitude here.
> AL(CO)
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., INCEv@w... wrote:
> > "Small hands" A little trick that I learned is to get a
piece of
> rubber
> > radiator hose that fits(tightly) over the porcelain,about
15" long
> will
> > be enough. Good luck! Dan
> >
> >
> > Well, I have changed plugs on a couple of cars over the four
decades
> I have
> > been fooling around playing backyard mechanic.
> >
> > The US Turbo Legacy is not what I would consider an easy
change, and
> sounds
> > like the RS is even worse.
> >
> > Here's some tips if you decide to tackle it. The fronts are
a
> breeze but the
> > rears can be murder.
> >
> > Make sure your plug wires are distinctive or numbered or
something
> so you
> > don't mix them up.
> >
> > Wait till the engines cooled off so you can touch any part
without a
> > reflexive jerk. If it's too hot, you'll get your skin onto
> something, snatch
> > away, and rake your hand open on something sharp. The plugs
stay
> hot longer
> > than just about anything else on the outside of the engine
so they
> can get
> > you too.
> >
> > Get some heavy gloves. You might be tugging at a wrench to
> untighten a plug,
> > it will break free all of a sudden, and you'll smash your
knuckles
> on
> > something hard or sharp or both.
> >
> > Do the front first. Just barely break them free with the
wrench
> then feel
> > how easy or hard they are to unscrew by hand. After you
take one
> out, screw
> > it back in by hand. You might need a little oil on the
threads.
> Notice
> > whether it goes in easily all the way or hangs up anywhere.
Repeat
> the
> > process with the rear.
> >
> > The main reason for this exercise is to learn the "feel" and
> direction of
> > each hole. You would like to screw by hand as much as
possible
> because with
> > the Aluminum heads, it's real easy to crossthread the hole
without
> knowing it
> > till it's too late, when you have the mechanical advantage
of a
> wrench, and
> > really jack up everything. You can't crossthread with
finger
> pressure.
> >
> > If you don't have the right tools to pull the plugs right
out nice
> and easy
> > without any side pressure, you run a good chance of
crossthreading
> if you use
> > that tool to install if they're not screwed way in by hand.
> >
> > Try to get some rubber gizmo that will grip the plug. One
time I
> let the
> > sucker slip down under the intake manifold, and after two
hours of
> trying
> > everything I had to ask the little girl next door to help me
out
> with her
> > tiny hands.
> >
> > Good Luck
> >
> > Larry Witherspoon
> > 4260 W 182nd St.
> > Torrance (Los Angeles), CA 90504
> > day/office phone 562-982-7720
> > larry.d.witherspoon@b...
> > ssspoon@a...
>
>
> ------------------------
---------------------~-->
> Buy Stock for $4
> and no minimums.
> FREE Money 2002.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/k6cvND/n97DAA ... /XoTolB/TM
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------~
->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@e...
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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and no minimums.
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Sounds like you need a colder plug.

The plug temperatures about about their ideal temperature for self cleaning.

If your plug is dirty, then your combustion isn't hot enough to clean the
plug, so get a colder plug. I think.

-Toby

On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, milehial2000 wrote:

> Hi Josh, I did think that the dark plugs were from the chip we were
> talking about but other people have mentioned this also besides the
> chip tends to enrich the mixture during acceration by design to try
> and retain good milage and this is a consistant dark plug syndrome
> high speed low speed makes very little difference. It's just that they
> should look good and it could have some effect on all around
> performance.
> AL(CO)
>


------------------------ ---------------------~-->
Buy Stock for $4
and no minimums.
FREE Money 2002.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/k6cvND/n97DAA ... /XoTolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->

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I don't quite understand why you would want a colder plug to make your combustion hotter? You're mix would ignite just a tad later....producing less peak firing pressure....which would produce lower temps......

I understand the hotter plug thing.....but I still don't understand why you want colder plugs unless you had a turbo running shitty high boost, or high compression engine that would have a tendency to pre ignite......

Josh

************************************
Josh Colombo
Josh@surrealmirage.com <mailto:Josh@surrealmirage.com>

"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************


-----Original Message-----
From: Toby Corkindale [mailto:tjcorkin@sa.pracom.com.au]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 7:16 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints and
cautions


Sounds like you need a colder plug.

The plug temperatures about about their ideal temperature for self cleaning.

If your plug is dirty, then your combustion isn't hot enough to clean the
plug, so get a colder plug. I think.

-Toby

On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, milehial2000 wrote:

> Hi Josh, I did think that the dark plugs were from the chip we were
> talking about but other people have mentioned this also besides the
> chip tends to enrich the mixture during acceration by design to try
> and retain good milage and this is a consistant dark plug syndrome
> high speed low speed makes very little difference. It's just that they
> should look good and it could have some effect on all around
> performance.
> AL(CO)
>



To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com









------------------------ ---------------------~-->
Buy Stock for $4
and no minimums.
FREE Money 2002.
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---------------------------------------------------------------------~->

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Hmm.. Yes and no.

My old mechanic told me that a colder plug means its self-cleaning
temperature is lower, and the idea is to match plug temperature to
combustion temperature. This would then keep the plug clean.
According to that theory, you want a colder-rated plug.

However, I read that post from ssspoon@aol.com about autolite plugs, and
that said the temperature rating actually varied the heat the plug generated
itself.
According to that theory, you want a hotter-plug.

So now i'm not sure if my old mechanic was right or wrong, or if i
misunderstood him. I reckon i'd go with the post from ssspoon being right.

sorry

Toby

On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, Josh Colombo wrote:

> I don't quite understand why you would want a colder plug to make your
> combustion hotter? You're mix would ignite just a tad
> later....producing less peak firing pressure....which would produce
> lower temps......
>
> I understand the hotter plug thing.....but I still don't understand why
> you want colder plugs unless you had a turbo running shitty high boost,
> or high compression engine that would have a tendency to pre
> ignite......
>
> Josh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Toby Corkindale [mailto:tjcorkin@sa.pracom.com.au]
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 7:16 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: Fwd: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] spark plug change hints and
> cautions
>
>
> Sounds like you need a colder plug.
>
> The plug temperatures about about their ideal temperature for self cleaning.
>
> If your plug is dirty, then your combustion isn't hot enough to clean the
> plug, so get a colder plug. I think.
>
> -Toby
>




------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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and no minimums.
FREE Money 2002.
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