Crank Pully Loose
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:53 pm
My crank pully is loose and would like to know the simple way to tighten. Remove starterto get to flywheel-radiator-or vise gripes on pully. Thanks Dave in Tahoe
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Crank Pully Loose
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:58 pm
What about just putting the transmission in 5th gear? Wouldn't that work?
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 11:54 pm
I use a strap wrench braced against another pulley and a big ass wrench.
Steve
Steve
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:07 am
Eww, an ass wrench??
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:11 am
It is Automatic-when I changed the timing belt 1 yr ago- I used big set of channel locks that put scratches on the pully. Im thinking of lifting radiator up so to get air tool on it. What torque should it be 100lbs to much
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:20 am
Oh... okay, so putting it in gear won't do. On autos I think there's a little access port near where the transmission and engine mate where you can see the teeth that mesh with the starter. You can jam something in there to lock the engine in place.
Auto guys, help clarify this... :)
As for the torque spec, I believe the manuals do say around 100 ft-lbs, but some people will say to tighten it more than that because they have had problems with the bolt backing out. You may want to put some Loctite on the threads to be safe.
Auto guys, help clarify this... :)
As for the torque spec, I believe the manuals do say around 100 ft-lbs, but some people will say to tighten it more than that because they have had problems with the bolt backing out. You may want to put some Loctite on the threads to be safe.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 2:33 am
Paverdave: remove the pulley and inspect the crank. You may have damaged it. Its actually pretty common. Do a search and read some of the horror stories.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 4:35 am
Seriously dude, BE CAREFUL. I ran across the same problem.... and yes it was a horror story.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 4:50 am
here's the access port
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2486.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2487.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2488.JPG
What you see is the flex plate. Stick a big screwdriver or breaker bar in there to keep the engine from moving.
I would also recommend you take the pulley off to check it out, as well as the crank & key.
When you put it back on, torque to 110-130 ft/lbs and wouldn't hurt to use some light lock tite on it.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2486.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2487.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2488.JPG
What you see is the flex plate. Stick a big screwdriver or breaker bar in there to keep the engine from moving.
I would also recommend you take the pulley off to check it out, as well as the crank & key.
When you put it back on, torque to 110-130 ft/lbs and wouldn't hurt to use some light lock tite on it.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:30 am
LOL!!!vrg3 wrote:Eww, an ass wrench??
Find the access port as Josh linked pics to, then put something in between the flex plate and torque convertor, and then up against one of the bolts that hold them together. This is virtually foolproof. I'd be worried of something slipping off a flywheel tooth...
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 11:57 pm
Thanks for the replies--Much better than Radio Shack(You've got questions-we got answers) You have PICTURES!! Wow-I spotted the rubber boot. Now if it will only warm up(30 degress high. Need some of that Texas sunshine! Thanks Dave in Tahoe. 
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 3:36 am
that's why I took all those pictures when I had the intake off, much easier to pin point specific sensors or doo-dads.
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 7:27 am
Fixed the pulley bolt today-pulley and keyway look good--the hardest part of the job was finding and replacing the little rubber boot. Thanks for help! Dave in Tahoe