So this time I decided to do things correctly. Use a real liquid resin mix, and do this the way I should have the first time.
I'll give a play-by-play for everyone's benefit.
Step 1 - Buy the resin. I used Bondo brand resin because it's what they had at 8:45pm on Memorial day at Walmart.
Step 2 - Buy the fleece. Yes, the fleece your grandma uses to make blankets. I, fittingly, used racecar fleece. I paid $1.67 for .25 yards. This was the smallest amount that I could convince the walmart cutter to cut. I needed a 4" by 8" peice, but she wouldn't have it.
Step 3 - Buy the Sobe. This stuff proves invaluable in the quest for fiberglass heaven. I prefer the Green-Tea variety, but I also tried the Energy flavor. It had a slight citrus flavor, not unlike a mango. It was good, but I couldn't stand to drink more than one bottle. I stuck with the Green Tea for the duration.
Step 4 - Buy the wooden dowels. Specifically the square style. I found these just east of the racecar fleece. $1.27 later I had my package of 10 assorted dowels. I was only interested in the 1/4" diameter square dowels in the package. There were 2. I suspected they would be enough (I was at the guesstimate stage of my work. Come to think of it, I didn't make an actual measurement during this entire project.)
Step 5 - Measure and cut. Well, not really measure. The extent of my measuring was holding up to, and playing with the bandsaw. If my years as a pre-engineering student and aid in High School taught me anything, measuring doesn't always mean its right. The number of times that I measured something perfectly, only to have it foul me later in a project, is unfathomable. So, a pen was my measuring tool. A quick alignment next to the back of the radio bezel, and I was in business. Guess what, I got it right, first cut. I knew I got an A in that class for a reason. Another reason that a real measurement isn't exactly a good idea is due to the irregular surface, and the mashability of the fleece. I've never fiberglassed before, so I only could make assumptions about the post-glass thickness of the fleece. I gave myself 1/8th of an inch (roughly) of room to play with. Hot glue and bondo would make up any gaps.
Step 6 - Post cutting, I did a dry fit, and it works wonderfully. A dab or 4 of hot-glue got my fiberglass frame built and ready to go.
Step 7 - Cut the fleece so that you have a good bit of excess hanging over. Enough so that you can wrap the fleece around the frame, exactly like building a painting canvas. At least, I think it's like that, I'm not a painter, so I'm just making an assumption.
Step 8 - Hot glue one of the short sides of the fleece to the frame. Wrap it around to the opposite side of the frame and stretch the fleece across it. Hot glue the other side down. Pull the center of the top flap of fleece snug and staple it to the back side of the frame. Work your way out to the edges, stapling every 1/2 inch or so. Do the same on the bottom. You want the fleece to be tight enough to bounce a quarter off of. Don't try, it'll dent the fleece, and that's not what you want in the quest for a smooth surface.
Step 8 - Mix the resin and hardener. The stuff I got was crappy. Well, it was good, but the package was bad, and the hardener had leaked out. I had less than 1/4 tube left. I mixed it with less than 1/4 of the resin and mixed it up. I applied a thin coat to the top and sides of the fiberglass frame. I wish I had enough resin to soak the whole thing, but what are you gonna do? The thin coat seemed to be enough and it's a pretty solid platform. Still fleece-y on the underside, so I'll probably go to wally-world to pick up a real can of resin and hardener and slather the bottomside.
Steps that I will do on Wednesday:
Step 9 - Slather bottomside of fleece with resin to stiffen everything up. I might do this Tuesday night so it will be nice and dry for the next step.
Step 10 - Use fiberglass cloth (available in a fiberglass repair kit from Wally-world. DO NOT USE THE JELLY STUFF. That stuff is shit. It seems really easy, and it is for hack jobs, but it's impossible to get it to lay cleanly and smoothly. This was the first mistake I made on my first attempt) and resin to back the fleece panel. You want any unsupported fleece surface to be stiffly supported to prevent flexing and cracking. Plus, there's enough resin and hardener to slather the whole fleece bit and do the glass backing. It's about $7.77 for the Fiberglass repair kit.
Step 11 - Sand, sand, sand, sand, sand... sand. You want this panel to be as smooth as a babys bottom. I mean super smooth. Exactly as smooth as sandpaper isn't.
Step 12 - Body filler. You need a can of this too. When you glue the panel into the radio bezel, there will be a slight gap. Gaps are ugly, unless they are the brand of jeans that are hugging the curvacious butt of the infinitely hot Katie Holmes. Apply body filler as you'd imagine. Fill the gaps and any irregularities in the fiberglass. Smooth is KEY.
Step 13 - Sand a whole shit ton more. Remember, smooth is key. Any kinds of bumps or divots are going to be ugly, and mess up your hard work.
Step 14 - Choose a finishing method, and do it. I am really leaning towards using a spray-on bedliner finish. It's not quite flat-black, but not quite gloss. Almost the finish that Vinyl has if sprayed lightly. Plus, it's really durable, and looks pretty slick, you know. Another option is spray vinyl, which you simply spray on to acheive the consistency you want, then dye it with spray-dye. Both are rather expensive methods, spray liner costing around $18 for a bigass can, spray vinyl and dye costing upwards of $30 for both.
That should be it. I am pretty much winging this with the help of someone who's done a bit of glass-work in his day. It's not a large project, but it's a start for right now. I'll probably get into bigger projects as I gain a bit more experience. I never thought fiberglass was so easy to work with. I don't really know of anything else I want to fiberglass right now. I could build a custom sub enclosure for the spare tire well, but that would require me losing the mulit-tray, which is invaluable as it holds spare winshield wipers. The spare tire doesn't mean jack for me because it's not the same size as the current tires.
I've got pictures that are posted below.
The dried product before sanding. This is as far as I got tonight. I kept getting distracted by TV. Notice the box that the peice is sitting on
Here's a better shot of the peice. Notice the race car?
Here it is in the car for a test fit. The car is upside down
Dry fit on the table. Ready to sand and fill
What do you guys think of my latest effort?
) and I'm going to STPR Saturday, so I'm only working 3 days this week. 
