Does anyone leave their dp on when changing engine mounts?
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Does anyone leave their dp on when changing engine mounts?
Or is it pretty standard to disconnect it? I'm just wondering how high I'm going to need to raise the engine.
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Looking at my new mounts, it looks like you've got to lift it about 2 to 3" to clear the bolts.
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There is some flex in the system, but I would undo it just to be on the safe side.
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That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
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Disconnect it from the heads?? Are you referring to the uppipe?
Well i left it connected and changed my mounts. The engine mounts are a pain in the rear to change, but it is done.
My origional driver's side engine mount came out in two peices and empty of fluid.
Well i left it connected and changed my mounts. The engine mounts are a pain in the rear to change, but it is done.
My origional driver's side engine mount came out in two peices and empty of fluid.
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Sweet! Did it fix your problem with the DP?
Did your engine move around a lot at idle before you swapped them and if so how is it now?
Did your engine move around a lot at idle before you swapped them and if so how is it now?
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'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
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Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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well it fixed it and didn't fix it. After changing the tranny mount, the play in the exhaust and tranny was almost all the way gone. TALK ABOUT A DIFFERENCE. HOLY COW i had no idea. That tranny origionally was like sitting on mud for mounts. It moved all over, now I can't budge it.
The downside is that it then pushed up the dp to touching the farthest rear crossmember. Even when I pulled it as close to the tranny as possable it still touched.
So then I went to work on the engine mounts. Pain in the rear, but I got them done. The driver's side oem mount came out in two pieces hahaha. I should have Thawa take shots of it while I still have it.
After putting them in, the dp came down slightly but not a lot. It now it a few millimeters off of hte farthest rear crossmember and only bangs once in a while. Very rarely. I can sometimes tell it is barely touching when I decellerate as it makes a slight vibration feeling at times. (similar to plucking a string on a guitar and barely touching it with a pick or your finger).
I talked to a mechanic and he said to pull the mount bolts so that they are loose, pull hte pitch mount bolt, and then try and manhandle the engine/tranny around to make sure it is sitting solid and that might move things around a bit. I tried it but I can't bugde it.
So I may pay him some cash to play with it. If that doesn't work I may just grind down the spot on the crossmember were it would most likely touch. I won't need to grind a lot, because that exhaust doesn't hardly move at all, but with only a few millimeters of clearence, it would make me feel a lot better.
The downside is that it then pushed up the dp to touching the farthest rear crossmember. Even when I pulled it as close to the tranny as possable it still touched.
So then I went to work on the engine mounts. Pain in the rear, but I got them done. The driver's side oem mount came out in two pieces hahaha. I should have Thawa take shots of it while I still have it.

After putting them in, the dp came down slightly but not a lot. It now it a few millimeters off of hte farthest rear crossmember and only bangs once in a while. Very rarely. I can sometimes tell it is barely touching when I decellerate as it makes a slight vibration feeling at times. (similar to plucking a string on a guitar and barely touching it with a pick or your finger).
I talked to a mechanic and he said to pull the mount bolts so that they are loose, pull hte pitch mount bolt, and then try and manhandle the engine/tranny around to make sure it is sitting solid and that might move things around a bit. I tried it but I can't bugde it.

So I may pay him some cash to play with it. If that doesn't work I may just grind down the spot on the crossmember were it would most likely touch. I won't need to grind a lot, because that exhaust doesn't hardly move at all, but with only a few millimeters of clearence, it would make me feel a lot better.
91 Pearl White Sport Sedan
04 Java Black Pearl Forester XT
2014 Volvo S60 T5
18 KTM 1290 Adventure S
87 Grey GL-10 Sedan (so long old buddy) - donated
97 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - sold
2002 BMW r1150rt-p - sold
2004 BMW r1200ST - sold
2016 BMW r1200RS - sold
04 Java Black Pearl Forester XT
2014 Volvo S60 T5
18 KTM 1290 Adventure S
87 Grey GL-10 Sedan (so long old buddy) - donated
97 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - sold
2002 BMW r1150rt-p - sold
2004 BMW r1200ST - sold
2016 BMW r1200RS - sold
Remind me next time we meetgeorryan wrote:So then I went to work on the engine mounts. Pain in the rear, but I got them done. The driver's side oem mount came out in two pieces hahaha. I should have Thawa take shots of it while I still have it.

How does the car feel now though. Can you tell a difference in shifting or anything or idling?
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I'm on First and First. How can the same street intersect with itself? I must be at the nexus of the universe.
Most definately. Without any doubt in my mind, it makes the car feel a whole lot more sturdy. A lot of the slop I didn't realize was there is gone. All I can say is it feels to me like I've taken a duffle bag and instead of just having a few things in there, I've added stuff to make everything fit just right and keep the brakable stuff from moving around.
For instance, shifting is loads smoother. I was still getting syncho issues occasionally in 2-3 and 3-4 so I decided to change my royal purple oil out and put in the dyno oil again. All I could find that wasn't synthetic was valvoline. So if anyone knows of anything better, let me know. I still get a bit of a grind from 3-4 occasionally, but that's it.
Also, you know how our cars sometimes lope at idle after a hard drive? The rpms will drop a bit; well, when that used to happen the car would shake a bit and I'd see the shift knob bounce back and forth. Now when it does that it is a much more contained feeling. The shift knob is pretty still, as well. You still feel it, but it isn't as dramatic. Driving feels nicer as well. I'm not sure why, I can't really explain that entirely, maybe it's in my head.
Shifting is smooth and less knotchy than it used to be, as well.
For instance, shifting is loads smoother. I was still getting syncho issues occasionally in 2-3 and 3-4 so I decided to change my royal purple oil out and put in the dyno oil again. All I could find that wasn't synthetic was valvoline. So if anyone knows of anything better, let me know. I still get a bit of a grind from 3-4 occasionally, but that's it.
Also, you know how our cars sometimes lope at idle after a hard drive? The rpms will drop a bit; well, when that used to happen the car would shake a bit and I'd see the shift knob bounce back and forth. Now when it does that it is a much more contained feeling. The shift knob is pretty still, as well. You still feel it, but it isn't as dramatic. Driving feels nicer as well. I'm not sure why, I can't really explain that entirely, maybe it's in my head.

Shifting is smooth and less knotchy than it used to be, as well.
91 Pearl White Sport Sedan
04 Java Black Pearl Forester XT
2014 Volvo S60 T5
18 KTM 1290 Adventure S
87 Grey GL-10 Sedan (so long old buddy) - donated
97 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - sold
2002 BMW r1150rt-p - sold
2004 BMW r1200ST - sold
2016 BMW r1200RS - sold
04 Java Black Pearl Forester XT
2014 Volvo S60 T5
18 KTM 1290 Adventure S
87 Grey GL-10 Sedan (so long old buddy) - donated
97 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - sold
2002 BMW r1150rt-p - sold
2004 BMW r1200ST - sold
2016 BMW r1200RS - sold