Does anyone leave their dp on when changing engine mounts?
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 4:19 am
Or is it pretty standard to disconnect it? I'm just wondering how high I'm going to need to raise the engine.
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Does anyone leave their dp on when changing engine mounts?
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Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 4:25 am
Looking at my new mounts, it looks like you've got to lift it about 2 to 3" to clear the bolts.
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 6:05 am
There is some flex in the system, but I would undo it just to be on the safe side.
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:15 pm
You must disconnect it from the heads, but after that you can let it hang or support it with a jack.
Andrew
Andrew
Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 2:02 am
Disconnect it from the heads?? Are you referring to the uppipe?
Well i left it connected and changed my mounts. The engine mounts are a pain in the rear to change, but it is done.
My origional driver's side engine mount came out in two peices and empty of fluid.
Well i left it connected and changed my mounts. The engine mounts are a pain in the rear to change, but it is done.
My origional driver's side engine mount came out in two peices and empty of fluid.
Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 3:59 am
I think he was thinking about an na's system 
Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 4:52 am
Sweet! Did it fix your problem with the DP?
Did your engine move around a lot at idle before you swapped them and if so how is it now?
Did your engine move around a lot at idle before you swapped them and if so how is it now?
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2004 12:27 pm
Yes... I believe that was what I was thinkingTHAWA wrote:I think he was thinking about an na's system
Andrew
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 9:42 pm
well it fixed it and didn't fix it. After changing the tranny mount, the play in the exhaust and tranny was almost all the way gone. TALK ABOUT A DIFFERENCE. HOLY COW i had no idea. That tranny origionally was like sitting on mud for mounts. It moved all over, now I can't budge it.
The downside is that it then pushed up the dp to touching the farthest rear crossmember. Even when I pulled it as close to the tranny as possable it still touched.
So then I went to work on the engine mounts. Pain in the rear, but I got them done. The driver's side oem mount came out in two pieces hahaha. I should have Thawa take shots of it while I still have it.
After putting them in, the dp came down slightly but not a lot. It now it a few millimeters off of hte farthest rear crossmember and only bangs once in a while. Very rarely. I can sometimes tell it is barely touching when I decellerate as it makes a slight vibration feeling at times. (similar to plucking a string on a guitar and barely touching it with a pick or your finger).
I talked to a mechanic and he said to pull the mount bolts so that they are loose, pull hte pitch mount bolt, and then try and manhandle the engine/tranny around to make sure it is sitting solid and that might move things around a bit. I tried it but I can't bugde it.
So I may pay him some cash to play with it. If that doesn't work I may just grind down the spot on the crossmember were it would most likely touch. I won't need to grind a lot, because that exhaust doesn't hardly move at all, but with only a few millimeters of clearence, it would make me feel a lot better.
The downside is that it then pushed up the dp to touching the farthest rear crossmember. Even when I pulled it as close to the tranny as possable it still touched.
So then I went to work on the engine mounts. Pain in the rear, but I got them done. The driver's side oem mount came out in two pieces hahaha. I should have Thawa take shots of it while I still have it.
After putting them in, the dp came down slightly but not a lot. It now it a few millimeters off of hte farthest rear crossmember and only bangs once in a while. Very rarely. I can sometimes tell it is barely touching when I decellerate as it makes a slight vibration feeling at times. (similar to plucking a string on a guitar and barely touching it with a pick or your finger).
I talked to a mechanic and he said to pull the mount bolts so that they are loose, pull hte pitch mount bolt, and then try and manhandle the engine/tranny around to make sure it is sitting solid and that might move things around a bit. I tried it but I can't bugde it.
So I may pay him some cash to play with it. If that doesn't work I may just grind down the spot on the crossmember were it would most likely touch. I won't need to grind a lot, because that exhaust doesn't hardly move at all, but with only a few millimeters of clearence, it would make me feel a lot better.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 10:14 pm
Remind me next time we meetgeorryan wrote:So then I went to work on the engine mounts. Pain in the rear, but I got them done. The driver's side oem mount came out in two pieces hahaha. I should have Thawa take shots of it while I still have it.
How does the car feel now though. Can you tell a difference in shifting or anything or idling?
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 12:39 am
Most definately. Without any doubt in my mind, it makes the car feel a whole lot more sturdy. A lot of the slop I didn't realize was there is gone. All I can say is it feels to me like I've taken a duffle bag and instead of just having a few things in there, I've added stuff to make everything fit just right and keep the brakable stuff from moving around.
For instance, shifting is loads smoother. I was still getting syncho issues occasionally in 2-3 and 3-4 so I decided to change my royal purple oil out and put in the dyno oil again. All I could find that wasn't synthetic was valvoline. So if anyone knows of anything better, let me know. I still get a bit of a grind from 3-4 occasionally, but that's it.
Also, you know how our cars sometimes lope at idle after a hard drive? The rpms will drop a bit; well, when that used to happen the car would shake a bit and I'd see the shift knob bounce back and forth. Now when it does that it is a much more contained feeling. The shift knob is pretty still, as well. You still feel it, but it isn't as dramatic. Driving feels nicer as well. I'm not sure why, I can't really explain that entirely, maybe it's in my head.
Shifting is smooth and less knotchy than it used to be, as well.
For instance, shifting is loads smoother. I was still getting syncho issues occasionally in 2-3 and 3-4 so I decided to change my royal purple oil out and put in the dyno oil again. All I could find that wasn't synthetic was valvoline. So if anyone knows of anything better, let me know. I still get a bit of a grind from 3-4 occasionally, but that's it.
Also, you know how our cars sometimes lope at idle after a hard drive? The rpms will drop a bit; well, when that used to happen the car would shake a bit and I'd see the shift knob bounce back and forth. Now when it does that it is a much more contained feeling. The shift knob is pretty still, as well. You still feel it, but it isn't as dramatic. Driving feels nicer as well. I'm not sure why, I can't really explain that entirely, maybe it's in my head.
Shifting is smooth and less knotchy than it used to be, as well.