legacycentral bbs

This is a 1994 Directwire(R) wiring information page for the legacy



Being that I'm a retired installer, if anyone ever has any questions regarding alarma or remote starters feel free to ask...


UPDATE: THE PARKING LIGHT WIRE COLOR IS WRONG ON THE SHEET. THE CORRECT COLOR IS GREEN LOCATED IN THE PLUG AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE BOX.

THE HATCH TRIGGER IS ACTUALLY YELLOW W/BLACK TRACE AND CAN BE LOCATED EITHER IN THE PASSENGER KICK AT A WHITE PLUG OR IN A SMALL WHITE PLUG AT THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER.

10/27/09 Update, fixed link to sheet.

-Mike

When i had my alarm installed, they thought the computer was a piece of sheet metal and grounded the alarm there. Needless to say the car wouldnt start but i get it back tomorrow

wow, sounds like you took it to best buy...if not you should tell everyone so they dont go there

i have a 93 legacy sedan auto AWD N/A and recently installed a remote start, tried using what i thought was the tach wire coming from the ecm, didnt work so i just used tachless operation. was wondering if anyone had the definite location of the tach wire from the ecm or behind the dash

its the black wire with blue trace at the ecm. There are 4 plugs at the bottom of the ecm. its on of the plugs in the middle. There are 2 black with blue trace in that plug I think. its not the one thats on the end on the plug but the one thats more towards the center of the plug. With a volt meter set to AC you should see voltage when the care is running. step on the gas and the voltage will rise. If I'm not mistaken the same wire will show 12 volts DC with the key in the on possition and the engine off. Hope that helps, oh and why do you have the same question in two posts?

-Mike

thanks a lot for the location, this may seem like an odd question but where is the ecm on a 93 legacy, just want to make sure im going to the right thing

Under the drivers side of the dashboard. to the left of the steering column. Its a shiney yellow gold ish color and has 4 plugs (EDIT: 3 plugs) going into the bottom of it. you cant miss it.

ok I was wrong. well, not totally but never the less I was wrong. The yellow gold ish box is not the ecu its the bcm I think. Anyway the tach wire is there pin number 2 in the center plug. There are only 3 black plugs in the bottom of the gold box. The ecu has the 4 yellow plugs like the link showed in the other post. I verrified that the black with blue trace is the tach wire there also but its a little harder to get at than the one I found at the gold box.

Mike

The box you're talking about is the TCU, Mike, and is of course only found on automatics. On autos it's definitely easier to deal with. On manuals it's a little easier to get to the ECU though since the TCU's not there.

good point Of course you would not be installing a remote starter in a manual trans now would you

Preferably not, yes.

Do any alarms pay attention to the tach signal?

thanks, it would make sense that there would be a wire from the tcu, which i knew was right there, but the ecm is a little futher back, what color is the wire if you dont mind?

Its here:

magicmike wrote:This is a 1994 Directwire(R) wiring information page for the legacy



-Mike

as well as two other posts in this thread.....

-Mike

i only ask because ive tried all black with blue wires coming from the tcm, none work

Oh sorry, well thats the wire. black with blue trace in the middle plug at the tcm. maybe its different in a 93 but I doublt it, also maybe there is a programming feature involved once you have it connected. What type of remote starter/ turbo timer are you trying to install? Did you do the AC voltage check like I described. I got about 9-10 volts DC on that wire with the ignition in the ON pos. and I think like 4 volts AC with the engine running.

-Mike

problem has been solved, thanks a lot for the help

ok, glad to hear it.

What type of actuator do the door locks require, 2 wire w/relays, three wire? Please clearify.

Despite what I said earlier in the thread, I just installed a keyless entry/remote starter dealie in my 5-speed car...

The wire I chose to use for the parking lights was on the lighting switch itself. It's an 11-pin connector going up to the switch in the steering column. The wire I used was red on the receptacle (switch side) and black/red on the plug (harness side).

I hooked the remote starter up so it'd only work if the transmission was in neutral, and so it would shut the engine down if anyone were to try to put the car in gear. Here's how:

The remote starter has a hood pin input that prevents it from working if the hood is open, or cuts it off if the hood opens. You typically install a microswitch under the hood so that the hood pin wire gets grounded if the hood is opened.

You can also connect the neutral switch to this wire. Cut the neutral switch wire going to the ECU, and connect it to the cathodes of two diodes. One diode's anode goes to the ECU's neutral switch input, and the other diode's anode goes to the remote starter's hood pin input. You can leave the hood pin switch connected as well. The diodes keep the ECU and the remote starter from interfering with each other.

magicmike - Have you ever installed a trunk lid opening solenoid in a Subaru? How's it work?

stipro - You just need a pretty standard door lock actuator to stick in the driver's door. It'll have two wires on it, which you'll connect to a pair of relays or something in order to drive it in both directions, unless the alarm has the capability to drive it directly. The manual for your alarm should explain how to hook it up.

That actuator, if properly installed, should be able to push the driver's door lock switch far enough to activate all the others through the car's factory "power assisted door locks" system.

Thanks for getting back to me, thats what I needed to know, seeing as I have already bought a 2 wire actuator, phew!!!

Cool. I used this one:

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/c ... item=DLA-1

I didn't do a great job fitting it inside the door though... I had to cut away a little bit of the fiber backing of the door card, and even then one of the clips doesn't latch all the way. You can only tell upon close inpsection, though, and it works fine.

Yah thats basically the same on I bought. Another thing, do you have a diagram of how to hook-up the two relays? It was late last night and could not figure it out. Damn brain!!

I have posted a link to a diagram in here somewhere before.

look here http://ccs.exl.info/locks.html at the bottom of the page "adding aftermarket actuators"

Vikash, adding a trunk solenoid is a tit mission. Just mount it and wire up a negative trigger 12 volt fused relay to one side of the sole and ground to the other.

example.
85 negative trigger
86 12 volts
30 12 volts
87 output to solenoid

just a note, mount the solenoid very securely and tighten the hell out of the screw piece that holds the metal cable to the rod latch. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see the parts in the kit. Oh, I also have just used a small low amp p/b switch on the relay ground trigger to work the trunk from inside. that was on my 87 gl that did not have a lever inside though.

Is a "tit mission" something that's easy or hard?

My question was mainly about mounting it; wiring's easy... So you're saying it'll all be pretty obvious once I buy a trunk release kit and remove my trunk carpeting? Cuz I was kind of hoping to just find a random surplus solenoid lying around and then to make it work the same way.

What's a p/b switch?

So normally the solenoid pulls a cable which is clamped to a rigid rod that's already on the car? So you just have to drill some holes and bolt the solenoid to some part of the car such that its movement is in the same direction as that rigid rod? Is that direction vertical or horizontal, roughly?

My lever stopped working -- I think the cable is kaput -- so this was gonna be my way of dealing with it. My remote has a trunk lid button on it, so I might as well use it. I was going to mount a microswitch or something under the lever by the driver's seat that would also actuate the solenoid.

Thanks, Mike.

lol a "tit mission" is something that is easy. As far as mounting I havent done one in a sedan so I wouldnt know an ideal mounting location. Its common sense, just look at it. I think I have a few solenoids at home, but I have to look. your welcome to have one if you pay the shipping Let me look tonight when I get home. ok, a p/b switch is a um you ready for this, a push button switch. no it does not stand for peanut butter lol. but you have the same idea with the micro switch.