How long to replace knock sensor???

Heads, valves, pistons, rods, crankshaft, etc...

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mhrallyteam
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How long to replace knock sensor???

Post by mhrallyteam »

Ok, how long is it to replace the knock sensor, i have to work outside in freezing temperature. Do i have to remove the intake spider?

Thx for any replys
92 l swapped to ej22T with 2.0T shortblock
4.111 manual 2.5RS tranny, sti eng mount, wrx I/C, MBC, WRX turboback exhaust, WRX front seats, STI rad cap, WRX specR1 struts, Eibach springs , leg turbo front brake, WRX rear brake.
Dave G
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Post by Dave G »

I did a search in anticipation of doing mine, but now I can't find the thread. I recall the following from the thread: it varied from 15 minutes to 2 hours, and takes a 10mm socket. I suspect the time difference was probably due to someone taking his time and being anal-not a bad thing, but unlikely in cold weather. Advice was to be sure to clean the contact surface on the engine very well. No antifreeze leaks out (contrary to Haynes manual). No need to remove manifiold-(it is accessible directly from above, from what I can see on my car.)
tris91ricer
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Post by tris91ricer »

If you've got man hands and sausage fingers, it'll be more difficult to reach down to the knock sensor. Otherwise, you should be okay. You CAN remove the intake manifold if you'd like, but keep in mind you're gonna want to get a new gasket for it. As long as you're being anal about it, though, try adding a ground strap to the knock sensor, it's been proven to give better performance.
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Dave G
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Post by Dave G »

I figure the connector looks like a bear to get two hands on.
evolutionmovement
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Post by evolutionmovement »

Put some water on the stove for antioxidant-rich green tea and set the stove to low.

Unplug connector at back of motor/top of tranny.

Put 10 mm socket on end of long extension.

Put extension down onto knock sensor bolt behind driver's side of intake on the back of the block just before the block casting goes vertical to mate with the tranny.

Undo bolt.

Pull sensor up.

See if surface is clean and maybe use a rag with acetone or some brake cleaner to clean up surface.

Reverse removal procedure with new sensor.

Now go in and get the boiling water and make tea.

Steve
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legacy92ej22t
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Post by legacy92ej22t »

Beware, of the pit of dispair *shivers*

Getting the old one out isn't really all that bad but it can be a real bitch to get the new one in. The hard part is threading the bolt back into the block. Not fun.
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EJ20TMAN
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Post by EJ20TMAN »

Use a stick of similar to put thru the bolt hole on the sensor, position the sensor using the stick (need to bend the sensor wire so the sensor stays in place . Now get some blue tac (dunno what its called in the US) to hold in the bolt and over it to the block and thru the sensor, now u can push the sensor around and start trying to catch the thread and do the bugger up.
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mhrallyteam
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Post by mhrallyteam »

Thanks guys!

I only need to get some tea and i'll be ready :wink:
92 l swapped to ej22T with 2.0T shortblock
4.111 manual 2.5RS tranny, sti eng mount, wrx I/C, MBC, WRX turboback exhaust, WRX front seats, STI rad cap, WRX specR1 struts, Eibach springs , leg turbo front brake, WRX rear brake.
evolutionmovement
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Post by evolutionmovement »

I think I held the sensor by the wire and put the bolt through then guided it to the hole with the extension until I found the hole, then straightened the extension to vertical and carefully threaded it in.

Steve
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
entirelyturbo
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Post by entirelyturbo »

Get a magnet reacher. That's how I got the bolt out from under the intake manifold when I dropped it :shock:, and that's how I got it through the new sensor and started threading it into the block.
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stipro
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Post by stipro »

Yah, I used a magnet reacher,aswell, took about two minutes. Undo wire connector, unbolt sensor, extract, put new part into place with magnet reacher, use it for the bolt aswell, and torque to 18 lbs/ft, re-connect electrical Done.
Last edited by stipro on Wed Feb 23, 2005 2:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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syphon
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Post by syphon »

This is one of those stupid tricky jobs because it's literally 1 bolt holding a chunk of metal on the block. All you have to do is pull that bolt off and pull the thing free.

However, it's a PITA because it's buried in the engine and you can barely see the damn thing, much less get a wrench to it :)
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