legacycentral bbs

You might have noticed from some other posts I was making.. I am getting a EJ22T.

I was able to get a good package deal w/ front crossmember, swaybar, steering rack, full exhaust, turbo fuel pump, full wiring harness, and ecu.

My goal is to someday make 300whp.

Initial plans are to replace these regular maintenace items:
*• cam seals
*• crank seals/rear main seal
*• water pump
*• thermostat
*• oil pump
*• timing belt
• lifters?
*• valve cover gaskets/o-rings
• All critical hoses
** PCV valve
* Air Filter
** Spark Plugs
* Spark plug wires
* O2 sensor

Simple Mods to do from the start:
* TB bypass
* Remove boost limiter
* Boost gauge
* parallel fuel lines

Also going to do a compression test, remove the AC compressor, swap over my new style PS pump and GFB pulley set, and install valve cover breathers. Probably will do the TB bypass mod, and check valve too, probably a boost gauge soon.

Anything else I should do to prep the engine before install? I know i have to be missing something

MK

Check valve?

Did you get the turbo-specific electrical pieces aside from the ECU? The pressure sensor, pressure exchange solenoid, and wastegate control solenoid don't exist on the NA models and the MAF sensor is different from the 1992 NA sensor.

Is check valve turbo specific? Reminds though i should do the PCV valve.

I got _everything_ to do the swap except the radiator, it's part of the reason i went ahead and decided to do the swap.

MK

mk750 wrote:Is check valve turbo specific? Reminds though i should do the PCV valve.

I'm confused; what check valve are you talking about?

Yeah, that's a good point -- you should definitely use a new PCV valve, new filters, and new ignition wires and new spark plugs.

I got _everything_ to do the swap except the radiator, it's part of the reason i went ahead and decided to do the swap.

Sweet.

vrg3 wrote:Check valve?

Check the 'Check valve' or check a valve?

I hadn't heard of a 'check valve' that's why i thought it was something turbo specific...unless it's nto a part at all.

MK

I'm sorry, I was super unclear... I was asking what you originally meant by "check valve."

I was confused by this:

mk750 wrote:Probably will do the TB bypass mod, and check valve too, probably a boost gauge soon.

What "check valve" are you referring to?

By the way, I strongly recommend getting the boost/vacuum gauge now so you can use it as soon as you have the engine in your car. That way you can make sure idle vacuum is good and also make sure boost control is functioning correctly.

Ahhhhhhhhh I didn't even think about my wording. By check valve I meant the one for the boost cutoff (13psi limiter) i guess it's not critical, raising boost will come after a few other mods, but it's so simple.

Boost gauge is definitely high on the list, i think i'll add it a list of simple/helpful mods.

Sorry about the confusion,

MK

*edit* now that i think about it, i should probably leave the limiter intact, just in case something gets stuck initially

Parallel fuel line mod? Something easy to do whilst the engine is out.

Don't worry about messing with boost for a long time... do you have an intercooler? Forget the idea completely if you don't.

Installing a new clutch and flywheel is also easiest with the engine out. And do you have the pull-type hydraulic clutch... and everything to hook that up? Something else to consider.

Welcome to the boost club!!
Well, almost...

mk750: Hey, dont copy me

Did you get the pressure sensor on the passenger strut tower?

Do the valve cover gaskest AND rubber o rings for the valve cover bolts

REAR MAIN SEAL!!!!

Timing belt tensioner

Bypass and heater hoses?

Exhaust gaskets?

02 sensor?

I suggest not using valve cover breathers. Why do you want to suck a bunch of dirt unmetered air from the atmosphere into the engine? Putting breathers may even INCREASE the amount of oil into the intake.

Ciper...I must not get something...how would valve cover breathers increase the amount of oil getting into the intake? At least the way I have mine set up, I would think it would be impossible for oil to get into the intake. And as far as dirty air, I would assume anyone doing this would put filters on...although I guess your right about unmetered air...I have noticed any problems from it though. I'm definately interested in the subject though. I just continued with the breathers cause the guy I bought the car from had it that way. What kind of problems do you forsee them causing, if any?
thanks
micum

Brat: good idea, the parallel fuel lines shouldn't be difficult. No clutch or flywheel, 4EAT baby!

ciper: got _everything_ needed for the swap less the radiator, all sensors, etc.. The rear main seal i include w/ the crank seals, it'll be done. Imma use the o2 sensor from my n/a ej22, it's about 3 weeks old. BTW i ordered about $200 worth of parts and seals from 1stsubaruparts, i let them know i found them through you on this board.

It was my understanding that the gas from the valve covers was coming out, not going in.. i guess i'm not 100% of the function of the system.

Thanks for the ideas guys!

MK

Look at the routing of the "air" lines on the engine.

At Idle you will create less restrictive path for the air than the normal air filter.

The IAC will suck air from the oil pan, which will suck air from the valve covers through the drain back holes.

Not only will the air be unmetered but MORE air will be passing through the oil pan to the IAC. The IAC will get gummed up faster and more oil will go into the intake.

It will also effect the PCV valve. Your PCV system wont function correctly after this for the same reason, the tube for the PCV also feeds from the oil pan. Your PCV will probably get clogged faster too, which will effect the idle.

Makes sense.

MK

Yes, you should definitely leave the boost cut in place at first in case something goes wrong. It is, after all, an engine safety feature.

And, since you're going to this much effort and expense, you really ought to get something better for an FCD than a simple check valve.

The parallel fuel rail mod like Brat4x4 suggested would actually be a great idea, I think.

Did a search, couldn't find much info here, any recomendations on a boost gauge?

MK

Ill ruin my surprise, I was going to post this in its own thread for everyone to see but:

My boost gauge will be either
http://www.brigarelectronics.com/Mercha ... PNEUMATICS
at 5.95$

Or
http://xtronics.com/stock/pgauge.htm
at 6.60$

Or
http://www.globaltoolsupply.com/cgi-loc ... ?E+scstore
At 9.95$

Im leaning towards the third unit because its so easy to read!

Notice the price. Not only are these heavy duty units meant to be run continiously they are also very precise! Im very proud of these discoveries, I feel that Im officially your daddy now

Haha, nice! good find. The only downside is that they don't have backlights. (possibly fixed by an LED)


MK

Backlight? Why?

While Im driving I turn the dash lights all the way down. I plan to hide the AVC AFC A/F somwhere.

I'm just guessing that not all problems involving boost (or times that you need to know boost pressure) happen in the daytime when the gauge is easy to read.

MK

You really ought to have a backlight just in case you ever want to read the gauge without daylight... gauges aren't meant for use solely in the day.

Ciper, I see a bigger issue with those gauges -- none of them measure vacuum. If you're investing in a manifold pressure gauge, I think you may as well invest in one that can measure vacuum as well as positive pressure. That way you can keep an eye on how your engine's idle is, and in general just always know what your intake ports are seeing. I was originally planning on getting a gauge like one of those but decided against it for just this reason; I couldn't find any that covered an appropriate range for manifold vacuum as well as boost.

Nearly any aftermarket boost gauge ought to be good enough unless its calibration has been thrown way off due to being dropped or something. I paid $20 for mine in an eBay auction.

Vacuum? My car will be under boost 100% of the time Ive bolted the gas peddle to the floor and just use the brakes to adjust speed.

The increase in price for a vacuum read isnt worth it. It would be cheaper to buy a seperate vacuum gauge and hook it up as well!

lol

wow, nice project !! looks a lot like the one i had in mind for the last 2 days
hehe

Got quite a bit done early this morning. Cam seals, crank seals, oil pump, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and timing belt.

I'm going to hold off on the parallel fuel lines until i decide to up the boost, sincei i'll be completely redoing the intake manifodl/injectors etc..


MK

Morgie are you saying your done with your legacy?

Mark,