legacycentral bbs

We got my saab i/c installed today and the FCDII. i rerouted my coolant tank to the front of the car between the coolant resevoir and the engine. started the car and everything seemed fine, except the little boost sensor on the left side of the bay was clicking really loud and about every 1/4 second. with that in mind i kept it slow at first, having to fix a small vacuum leak from the bpv. got that fixed and than gave it a little too much gas and it killed! the manifold pressure was still vacuum, but the turbo was spooling and than it killed. i can accelerate realllllyyyy slowly w/o going over 2k without it killing.. the second it tries to go quick- blah it kills

Any idea of what this could be, is it still a vacuum leak somewhere? or maybe a boost leak, really bad-

i'll try to get some engine bay pictures if the ECU reset doesn't work.

is the intercooler tightened properly

I have 2 silicone hump hoses from the i/c.. and than a 45 degree tube from the turbo to my custom metal pipe.. all of them are tightened to where they are pushing through the hose clamp slots- very tight

Okay, i removed my i/c and still does the same thing.. BUT i found this out-

I start the car and i can rev it as high as i want... than the CEL comes on, and if i try to rev again it kills Now i tried removing the FCD and i put the stock parts back in.. still if the CEL is on my car will kill, and the CEL comes on the second after i rev high.

i pulled the codes: wastegate sensor( i've had for a long time), and Purge Canister.. same thing.. i've had both for over a year

I think you're in test mode. Are the little green connectors under the dash connected? Undo them.

You are using the stock boost control?

You aren't venting the BPV to the atmosphere, are you?

Try hooking the wastegate directly to the outlet nipple (leave the stock boost controller plugged in, but no hoses going to it).

See what happens then.

Reset your ECU, also.

same thing happened to me before. it was the intake manifold pipe that fell off. check to see if its still on.

Okay, this is weird.. it isn't in test mode, but it made that exact same sound as if it was... all my hoses are connected, because it works fine when the CEL is off... i am using my own MBC, but i removed it so it was stock and that didn't change anything... nope using the stock bpv too, with all the hoses straight and w/o kinks...

I removed the whole FCDII from my ecu harness, and it worked! so either i built my fcd wrong, or it really doesn't like the CEL.. but i don't see how i built it wrong the wiring is all correct according to 2 other people, maybe i have a weird car

Oh wait, I missed that the check engine light was on!

There was some problem with the FCD's construction or installation, and so the ECU lost its pressure signal. When that happens, it throws a code for the pressure sensor and cuts fuel whenever you get close to getting on boost.

Thanks for the headsup

do you know why it throws the CEL when i start to see boost? A lot of people have good results from it, is it because my CEL comes on from the sticky purge canister valve than the FCD just sees a CEL and goes nuts.. do you think maybe getting a new purge canister would let me weild the FCD?

Pull the trouble codes and find out why the CEL was illuminated.

i did, connected the black wires.. codes for the purge canister and wastegate actuator (35,45) appeared.

45 is the code for pressure sensing, not for boost control.

Like I said, it was most likely an error in construction or installation of the FCD. Didja double check every connection? Securely make, insulate, and seal (if necessary) them? Made sure you were using the right components and the right leads?

*ya, i dunno what i was saying~ the fuel cut code

everything was properly connected, and covered with electrical tape. i'll just try it again sometime later when i removed it i just cut the wires, so those connections weren't bad. Might as well re-make it, it should've work

Heh I just had the same problem happen to me 10 minutes ago. I'm pretty sure it must be an error in its construction, but it was working previously, then decided to not. Maybe something shorted somewhere.

For now I just put the input/output for the sensor together. May have to reset the ECU, though.