keeping legacycentral updated on the installs.. (you can click them to make them fullsized)
my fav:
now under the hood..
and the Gtech and boost/vac gauge..
unfortunetly i still don't have reverse, but working on getting the dp cat-less.
hope you all approve
Last edited by StartRestart on Wed Apr 06, 2005 1:51 am, edited 2 times in total.
I highly recommend replacing that clear vinyl tubing with 3/4" heater hose. It'll handle the temperatures much better.
You also might want to use a ziptie or something around the cruise control actuator bracket and one of the little nubs on the side of the intercooler. That'll help keep the intercooler in place.
How is your coolant filler tank mounted?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
vrg3 wrote:I highly recommend replacing that clear vinyl tubing with 3/4" heater hose. It'll handle the temperatures much better.
How is your coolant filler tank mounted?
ya my local Ace hardware was out of heater hose that size, this is all they had, it does get very rubbery* after long drives...
it is mounted in there... pretty much rests on the cam cover, but we ziptied it to the Oil Filler neck, and around the screw for the Coolant resevoir. there is plenty of room for the hoses between the tank and battery... is it supposed to gurlge alot after i relocated the tank? there is quite a bit of air in my coolant lines, after a long run i can hear bubling in them..
Yeah, you'd probably have to go to an auto parts store for 3/4" heater hose.
So your coolant filler tank is strapped to both the engine and the overflow tank? You're aware that those two things move relative to each other, right? The engine can move a lot on its mounts when it's producing a lot of torque.
The gurgling is air bubbles. You really should get the system fully burped before putting any load on the engine.
It kind of looks like some of the hoses you ran go up and then back down. Air gets easily trapped at these little high points and is very hard to get out. You might want to see if you can reroute the lines to avoid that. Or maybe elevate the filler tank while doing the initial fill.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
vrg3 wrote:
So your coolant filler tank is strapped to both the engine and the overflow tank? You're aware that those two things move relative to each other, right? The engine can move a lot on its mounts when it's producing a lot of torque.
It kind of looks like some of the hoses you ran go up and then back down. Air gets easily trapped at these little high points and is very hard to get out. You might want to see if you can reroute the lines to avoid that. Or maybe elevate the filler tank while doing the initial fill.
we left some slack on the zipties.. i'm aware of the engine moving- have had no problems thus far..
Cool. It must come out a little faster, having a smaller area to exit from. Or maybe the other vents equalize the pressure, so it's not a noticeable change?
Just got the WRX hood scoop installed 40$ shipped w/ splitter.. but i didn't use the splitter (yet).
here ya go!
(random story: iwas out finding some good spots, and ended up needing to turn around in one lane my reverse slips REALLLY bad, especially when warm, so i ended up driving through some guy's yard to turn around. wow this car has a big turning radius)
40$ shipped w/ splitter.. but i didn't use the splitter (yet).
my reverse slips REALLLY bad, especially when warm, so i ended up driving through some guy's yard to turn around. wow this car has a big turning radius)
