got my front rotors turned, and way to tell if just fronts

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Bheinen74
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got my front rotors turned, and way to tell if just fronts

Post by Bheinen74 »

the front brakes on my 93SS were horribly warped. The easy way to check if it is fronts, or rears, or both; drive and slightly pull the ebrake. If you only apply the ebrake and you get Vibration, then it is the back brakes bad too.

Then just apply brakes with pedal, and if the front shakes your steering wheel like hell, then it is front rotors.
Mine were so bad that i think it was actually bouncing my tires up and down, it almost jerked the steering wheel out of my hand at highway braking.

So, off to get the rotors turned. Only 9 bucks a rotor at my Napa store. The other local place that turns rotors wanted 19 each rotor. So I chose Napa to do it.

Rotors back on car now, and smooth as a new car. Very huge improvement on driving enjoyment, and safety as well.

So, moral here, don't always have to buy new rotors, as long as there is enough there to turn them, you will save big $.

and an FYI, usually OEM rotors are good for 1 to 2 turnings before they will be too thin to turn, they are in fact designed so they can be turned a couple times if turned right. And, BTW those ebay rotors are junk.
If you want rotors to last 100,000 miles, use OEM.

some of you will probably disagree on some of the sutff I mentioned.
91 Legacy Sport Sedan 4eat
91crx si 165k
91 Civic RT4WD manual trans 168k
91crx Si 40.5k
85 BRAT Gl 140
97 SVX 74k
555BCTurbo
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Post by 555BCTurbo »

I think you are pretty much dead on! :D
Nick

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206er
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Post by 206er »

where did you hear the bit about checking the rear brakes with the e brake, because that is in a totally different plane of possible warpage than the rotor itself. not saying it isnt possible since Ive never seen a rear rotor warp but please explain.
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rallysam
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Post by rallysam »

Errr... like 206er said. The ebrake is totally different than the rear brake. I don't think this will work.
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Ebrake won't work.

The standard way to tell...if you feel vibration more in the steering wheel, it's the front rotors. If you feel it more in the brake pedal, it's the rears.

and...personally....turning rotors is a waste of money and more importantly time. I'm not going to get into all the reasons. But the basic one is your rotor is a heat sink. It can hold a certain amount of heat. If you remove rotor material, you reduce how much heat it can hold. In doing so, you more prone to have vibration issues due to DTV, NOT warping.
http://stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
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rallysam
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Post by rallysam »

Legacy777 wrote:Ebrake won't work.

The standard way to tell...if you feel vibration more in the steering wheel, it's the front rotors. If you feel it more in the brake pedal, it's the rears.

and...personally....turning rotors is a waste of money and more importantly time. I'm not going to get into all the reasons. But the basic one is your rotor is a heat sink. It can hold a certain amount of heat. If you remove rotor material, you reduce how much heat it can hold. In doing so, you more prone to have vibration issues due to DTV, NOT warping.
http://stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
Here here. I've warped rotors on all 3 of my Subarus, and the couple times I tried turning them it always came back fairly quickly (probably because the problem isn't actually warping, just like you say). I got frozen rotors, and no problems since.
'00 Impr RS - sold
'91 Legacy Turbo 5MT - mothballed
13psi, TurboXS TBE, WRX IC, Hallman MBC, TurboXS FCD, KYB AGX, Phil's STI seat, SPT short shifter, David Carter hood, Zeitronix widebandO2, Kuhmo rally tires, STI IC spray, thanks:gearboxtech.com
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