Looks pretty simple to replace… is there anything special I need to do before replacing my alternator?
91 SS
170k miles
thanks
Alternator replacement – how to?
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- Fourth Gear
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Ditto. Ratchet set and gloves.scuzzy wrote:nope.
Undo the cover, loosen the belt, take off the alternator. Reverse process.
1995 Polo Green Subaru SVX (189k miles - 08/2007-Present)Manarius wrote:The Neo-Cons would call me a defeatist. I'd call me a realist. I'm realistically saying that a snowball has better chances in the blazes of hell than democracy has in Iraq.
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- Vikash
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Yeah, it is very very easy. I'll give you a little info here and it should all make perfect sense when you get under the hood:
First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
Then undo the alternator's electrical connections. The harness connector will come out with a little pressure applied to its latch, and the high-current connections are held in with a 10mm-head nut. Be sure to save the nut and lock washer from this connection. If the lock washer is missing, get a 1/4" or M6 spring lock washer to replace it.
Now you have to remove the belt guards. They're held in with some 10mm-head bolts and the one 12mm-head bolt between the alternator and A/C condenser. Remove the 10mm-head bolts, and just loosen the 12mm-head one enough to remove the belt guards.
Now -- the alternator's mounting position is adjustable; this is how the belt tension is adjusted. Loosen the locking bolt whose head is facing the front of the car, and then turn the tension-adjustment bolt counter clockwise until there's enough slack in the belt.
Then remove the locking bolt and the other long mounting bolt that you loosened to remove the belt guard. Remove the alternator.
Installation is the reverse of removal. I would recommend replacing the alternator/power-steering belt while you're there. Also, smear dielectric grease into the harness connector before plugging it in, and apply it to the ring terminals and stud as well.
The belt's supposed to be tensioned such that it moves about 3/8" when you press on it with about 20 pounds of force. Tighten the lock bolt and mounting bolt to 18 ft-lbs.
First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
Then undo the alternator's electrical connections. The harness connector will come out with a little pressure applied to its latch, and the high-current connections are held in with a 10mm-head nut. Be sure to save the nut and lock washer from this connection. If the lock washer is missing, get a 1/4" or M6 spring lock washer to replace it.
Now you have to remove the belt guards. They're held in with some 10mm-head bolts and the one 12mm-head bolt between the alternator and A/C condenser. Remove the 10mm-head bolts, and just loosen the 12mm-head one enough to remove the belt guards.
Now -- the alternator's mounting position is adjustable; this is how the belt tension is adjusted. Loosen the locking bolt whose head is facing the front of the car, and then turn the tension-adjustment bolt counter clockwise until there's enough slack in the belt.
Then remove the locking bolt and the other long mounting bolt that you loosened to remove the belt guard. Remove the alternator.
Installation is the reverse of removal. I would recommend replacing the alternator/power-steering belt while you're there. Also, smear dielectric grease into the harness connector before plugging it in, and apply it to the ring terminals and stud as well.
The belt's supposed to be tensioned such that it moves about 3/8" when you press on it with about 20 pounds of force. Tighten the lock bolt and mounting bolt to 18 ft-lbs.
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