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Forged shortblock, on the cheap

Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 5:11 am
by PhyrraM
After almost a year of patiently collecting bargains I am ready to assembly My Motor.

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All of it used. And all of it at a good price. 2 cranks because I aquired a phase 1 crank, but found phase 2 rods first.

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CP pistons for a 2.35 stroker. Used, supposedly from a motor that spun a bearing. $150, pistons look great. A very minor amount of scuffing on the skirts. Contemplating having the skirts coated. Do I need new rings? Supposedly they only have "startup time" on them.

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Pauter rods for a EJ25 Phase 2. Supposedly out of a '01 RS motor. One bearing spun, the rod looks good and can definatly be reconditioned back to new. $150

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EJ25 Phase 2 crank. From the same motor as the rods. You can see the scuff from the spun bearing. Might polish out, will for sure clean up at .010 under with a bearing to match. $100, thought this was a bit high, but together with the rods was worth it.

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EJ22T block. From the local Pick A Part. Oil pan was smashed, oil starvation ensued. Pistons, rods, crank trashed. No spun main bearings so block is good. $50 (after the fact, block has a large overbore, CP pistons are stock to small overbore, block no good for me. I still have the one in the car to try, should be stock sized)

Gonna be fun. Stock EJ20G going in the car this week or next. Original EJ22T will get torn down soon after. If that block is no good for my pistons, I will try to trade one or both of my EJ22T blocks for a stock sized one.

Once the shortblock is finished, the EJ20G heads and intake will go on the finished block. Really haven't calculated the compression ratio, but it will be close enough to adjust with head gasket selection.

And thanks to all that helped me decide between EJ20G or WRX electronics.

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:08 pm
by t3h_Clap
any update on your setup?

i'm thinking EJ20G heads for my 22T as well.

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:27 pm
by PhyrraM
Nothing new yet.

Machine shop currently has the crank and the rods. Crank is very close as to if it can be cleaned up without welding the jounal. A new crank is only about $280 so I'm thinking about going that route.

My pistons are about 2 thousands too small for the bores in my cases. I'm currently researching having the skirts coated to close up the clearance. I've heard very compelling arguements for both having it done and not.

The auto to 5-speed swap is taking a bit longr than expected. I ended up pulling the dash and replacing a few harness wires (crank/cam/knock/O2 sensors) because the originals were heat-treated to the point there was no more flex.

I'll update again when the shortblock finally goes together.

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:29 pm
by t3h_Clap
shot you a PM

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 10:06 pm
by PhyrraM
I PMed back.

I'm gonna try not to sound like I'm swinging the SearchBat here. :P

This is my first Subaru build. As such I'm gonna be prone to mistakes and mis-information. There are many others that have gone before me.

Anything I can tell you I prolly found out here, as this is where I found it to start with.

I don't mind answering questions, I just don't wanna be caught passing bad info. :shock:

Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 10:21 pm
by t3h_Clap
understandable.

your thread was the first one i fell on today.

it happen to be dead on accurate.

<--back to searching :D

thanks for the help.