Sheared bolt front strut mount **drill hole in strut mount**

Struts, spring, anti-rollbars, braces and the like.

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grippingdrifting
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Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:48 am
Location: Bothell, WA

Sheared bolt front strut mount **drill hole in strut mount**

Post by grippingdrifting »

I was checking the torque on the three nuts that are on the front strut tower and sheared one of the three bolts on the strut mount. I have some extra struts so plan on swapping the tops but was wondering if there is enough clearance to drop the front strut and replace the top mount or do I need a spring compressor to remove the strut entirely to replace the mount?
Last edited by grippingdrifting on Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
94 Legacy L Alpine 4EAT
heartless
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Post by heartless »

you dont need a spring compressor to remove the strut from the car, but you will need one to replace the top.
grippingdrifting
First Gear
Posts: 67
Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:48 am
Location: Bothell, WA

Post by grippingdrifting »

Thanks for the info.

I have been driving around (extremely toned down) with the sheared bolt and haven't noticed any major problems. There hasn't been any unusual or grinding noises. I only drive when necessary but check the strut after each time and it hasn't moved around (painted an alignment mark). I have taken a few rough corners but handling is exactly like it always has been.

Hmm...I don't really want to deal with a spring compressor (or removing the strut for that matter)...I wonder if I can just remove the sheared bolt and make a hole through strut mount then use a sheet metal screw and nut to hold the strut...I think that should be sufficient since there hasn't been any problems so far...
94 Legacy L Alpine 4EAT
555BCTurbo
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Post by 555BCTurbo »

Just get another top hat...they ain't expensive (especially from Blackbart) and they aren't hard to change...
Nick

1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
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