93 SS stalls when going wide open throttle. Bunch of Codes!
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
93 SS stalls when going wide open throttle. Bunch of Codes!
Ok basically the car has been sitting for about two months. It was not starting, so I thought it was the timing belt. I go ahead and replace:
- timing belt,
- crank sprocket
- crank seal
- key
- crank pulley
- water pump
- thermostat
- both rad hoses
The car still doesnt start. So I check out the fuel pump connection and its all GOOD. Get a walbro fuel pump and install it. Vroooom the car starts right up.
However, the engine light is ON! I decide to drive the car and see how it goes. Once it warmed up, I give it more gas and the car just stalls. It starts up with no problems, but anytime I give it more than partial throttle it stalls.
I connect the black connectors, and check for codes.
- 13 (Cam Angle Sensor)
- 21 (Temp Sensor)
- 22 (Knock Sensor)
- 45 (Pressure Sensor?)
- 49 (Air Flow Sensor)
WoW!!! Where the hell did they come from?!? Then I decide to clear the codes just like Legacy777 says on his website. I tried using the (green & black connectors) method. BUT the check engine light did not flash when I was driving with both connectors connected. Legacy777's site said that the check engine light should flash the all clear signal.
I just disconnected the negative battery cable. Going to try to reset the ECU completely.
- timing belt,
- crank sprocket
- crank seal
- key
- crank pulley
- water pump
- thermostat
- both rad hoses
The car still doesnt start. So I check out the fuel pump connection and its all GOOD. Get a walbro fuel pump and install it. Vroooom the car starts right up.
However, the engine light is ON! I decide to drive the car and see how it goes. Once it warmed up, I give it more gas and the car just stalls. It starts up with no problems, but anytime I give it more than partial throttle it stalls.
I connect the black connectors, and check for codes.
- 13 (Cam Angle Sensor)
- 21 (Temp Sensor)
- 22 (Knock Sensor)
- 45 (Pressure Sensor?)
- 49 (Air Flow Sensor)
WoW!!! Where the hell did they come from?!? Then I decide to clear the codes just like Legacy777 says on his website. I tried using the (green & black connectors) method. BUT the check engine light did not flash when I was driving with both connectors connected. Legacy777's site said that the check engine light should flash the all clear signal.
I just disconnected the negative battery cable. Going to try to reset the ECU completely.
Last edited by SergeyZ on Tue May 01, 2007 6:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Just so you know, a single problem can sometimes trip the ecu to give multiple codes. Someone on here should be able to give you a better idea of what the problem might be - Im not very good at diagnosing from the multiple codes yet
Danny

Danny
500cc Shifterkart, 125cc Shifterkart, 01 MX5, 93 Legacy Wagon (DIY Turbo)
-
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 1755
- Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:53 pm
- Location: USA, PA, Grantham (near Harrisburg)
- Contact:
49 is improper air flow sensor. That may be the cause of your issue. The pressure sensor thing sounds pretty important though too.
1995 Polo Green Subaru SVX (189k miles - 08/2007-Present)Manarius wrote:The Neo-Cons would call me a defeatist. I'd call me a realist. I'm realistically saying that a snowball has better chances in the blazes of hell than democracy has in Iraq.
-
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 1947
- Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2003 6:22 pm
- Location: Fargo, ND
I see you replaced your crank sprocket and your timing belt, are you sure your timing isn't off? I experienced this on a legacy I had where the timing was way off. It can be tricky to get things lined up correctly. Another issue is if you went off of the notch marks or the arrows. Arrows are wrong.
If you have access to a laptop and can run the scan tool, you can see where your timing is at that way, otherwise just double check to make sure everything still is lined up right.
Aside from that, I'd go after the coolant sensor first, since it's like only $20 bucks. After that, try the airflow sensor.
If you have access to a laptop and can run the scan tool, you can see where your timing is at that way, otherwise just double check to make sure everything still is lined up right.
Aside from that, I'd go after the coolant sensor first, since it's like only $20 bucks. After that, try the airflow sensor.
SUBARUEHS Racing
Do you have the silver aluminum MAF sensor?
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
heh.SergeyZ wrote:What was the issue when timing was off?
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... highlight=
that's my thread. The gear was turned, so it was out of time.
SUBARUEHS Racing
Alright so i was looking around the maf sensor and noticed one of the vacuum hoses disconnected. So I plug it back in. In the meantime I had the negative battery cable disconnected so that it would reset the ecu. I connect the battery and start the car.
No more ENGINE LIGHT! And the car does not stall anymore! I guess it was that tiny vacuum line causing the stalling?
Anyways I got other problems now
After driving the car for about 5min, it starts overheating. I pull over and the fans are working just as they should. However the gauge is approaching the Hot mark, so i turn it off. I look underneath the car and coolant is leaking from one of the smaller hoses that go to the water pump.
No more ENGINE LIGHT! And the car does not stall anymore! I guess it was that tiny vacuum line causing the stalling?

Anyways I got other problems now
