tat-tat-tat-tat goes my turbo @ max psi

[Jutboy]

I just got myself a new (to me) 91 legacy turbo ss.

Well my car, is studdering and makes a sssht-ssht-ssht sound and my boost guage goes up and down, up and down....sometimes, not all the time and only when my accelerating kinda hard.

Could you please tell me your ideas on what it is and how I can fix it.

Thanks so much -Justin

[Jutboy]

So the solution would be to get a new wastegate? Or is just tubing?

I've learned a little bit about my problem... It seems to happen only when I reach around 6 psi (which I'm pretty sure is my stock psi limit)...it runs perfectly smooth during the winding up process before it reaches its max psi (I'm assuming is my stock max psi)

I don't know much about turbos AT ALL but I look at his (mine now) setup and notice a tube that had an empty port and goes to what I think is the boost controller....pics will show it better.

Heres what I'm concerned about...the tube on the right has an open adapter thing, you can see it only on the one below, its just an open hole that looks like tube should be on it......
[CLICK TO MAKE BIGGER]

Heres another picture that shows them.....


Now these tubes go into this.....which I assume is the stock turbo pressure regulator.....


Now the tube on the top is the one that has the open thing, the one on the bottom going 90 degrees is the tube on the left in these pictures and the tube that goes straight down from the bottom of this "regulator" goes into my air resonator (which is pretty damp with some liquid,I assume oil)

PLEASE ADVISE - Justin

IF you want to see bigger/clear versions of these pictures goto

[BAC5.2]

Have you double checked all fittings to make sure you don't have a leak somewhere? Tighten all hose clamps, and inspect all vacuum connections.

Once you are free of leaks, see what happens to the problem.

That white T-connector that is open, shouldn't be. Where is it coming from and where is it going?

I would ditch that ghetto ball-valve boost controller and just hook it back up to stock.

There are posts on here by VRG3 with the vacuum hose routing, as it should be.

Go back to stock, and see if that works.

[Jutboy]

I don't really know how to vacuum check all the connections because the resonator (the black box) covers most of this and I assume the best way to check is while the engine is running...I'll check all the clamps though....

The T-connecter goes from the picture (I don't know what part of the turbo/wastegate that is called) to the top of that cylinder which I also don't know what it is called (its the third pic though).....feel free to cue me into terminology....

Ok.....so I'm going to replace the bronze valve thing with just straight tubing to, like I said, the bottom 90 degree part of the cylinder in picture 3...I didn't know that was even a boost controller.

Ok...I'll try to find VRG3 posts.....thanks for the help....any other ideas? Why the hell is that t-connector open???

[Legacy777]

As Phil mentioned....replumb back to stock and see if your issues go away.

Here's the link he was talking about
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/vacuum/

[Jutboy]

WOW - EXCELLENT!!!!

So is the tube on the right is the compressor outlet and the tube on the right is the wastegate actuator?

Refer to pictures in first post

[georryan]

Compressor inlet is the one closest to the compressor intake (90 degree elbow on the front of the turbo), and the wastegate one is the hose fitting on that round metal thing on top of the turbo wtih the metal rod coming out its back heading to the back of the turbo. When boost gets too high, that round thing pushes the metal rod back and it opens up a flap on the back of the turbo allowing it to divert some of its exhaust gas and relieve pressure.

[Jutboy]

Alright, changed/checked all tubing,tightened all my clamps connected to the turbo,boost control solenoid, and pressure exchange solenoid........ same problem....my car idles a lot better and the max psi is lower but it does the same thing when I gun it...it does it most around 3rd gear???

I also found leaking PCV pipe, pipe #8 and #9 on Vikash's page...I also remembered i just changed to a new MAF sensor ( which had exactly the same part code on the box and stopped my CEL)....what could be going wrong here?

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/vacuum/ej22t_pcv.gif

[Jutboy]

I'm an idiot - one of my spark plugs was fouled.....I changed it and it runs great now.....every now and then I get a pop though...once every other day (I drive about 50 miles a day)...should I worry about it?

THANKS FOR THE HELP ALL!!! Justin

[Dynamic Entry]

I have a lot of the same symptoms you have been describing. WOT makes my boost gauge needle flutter around 10psi but at lower levels of boost the needle is rock solid. It's not just the gauge though, I can hear a corresponding noise in the air flow of the intake. It is a really fast pulse.

Also, if I am not gentle with the throttle modulation I can get "backfiring" pops just like you mentioned. But the pop clearly comes from my engine bay somewhere.

My engine misses often, especially under 3000rpm, which hinders spool up and causes hesitation.

My plugs (NGK) & wires are new with less than 1000 miles. As far as I know they are gapped and connected just fine.

I haven't done the grounding mod and my alternator is original.

I don't know what my car needs from me.

[Jutboy]

Check your plugs out and see how they look....2 of mine where literally dripping with fuel.

How does your car idle?

Thats a symptom that I'm going to address which might be the cause of other problems...

My root is to clean the TB, PCV and IAC.

I'd also recommend getting some ISO Heet and running a bunch of fuel injector cleaner.

[scoobyleg1]

me car did that too and stoped after i got new NGK 8mm plug wires and a new coil pack...



fixed the problem...and ran alot better too