legacycentral bbs

Hey fellows, long time no post for me. Well since my up-pipe decided to jam a chunk of itself into my turbo a couple of months ago I’ve been driving a spare Sube and thinking about finally getting around to using the stash of parts I’ve been collection for the last couple of years. I finished off my bathroom remodel last week so now is the time.

The build will be pretty standard stuff…

EJ22T short block
EJ25 DOHC heads
EJ20G intake
VF24 Turbo
WRX TMIC
440 Injectors
Stock ECU

I’m going to put it back together with the stock 370cc injectors and wastegate boost to start just to simplify the start up debug. They go with the 440s and a MBC and see how it goes with the stock ECU and boost just below fuel cut.

Here’s a few pics to get things started…

Chunks of my up-pipe that jammed in my turbine, didn't seem to harm the turbo, but the thing it so worn out I didn’t see the point of putting it back together… time for the build.




The cylinders look great for 250,000 miles, as long as the bearing journals don’t show me anything worse, it will be a bead hone, rings, bearings.




Head pics just to compare, EJ22T on the left, EJ20G middle and EJ25 right. Look at the difference in valve size between the stockers and the DOHC. Turbo water and oil plumbing will be a direct swap over using the EJ20G parts (drilling and tapping required).






I’m pretty sure I will be going with the intake under the manifold, just have to move the power steering reservoir, then I’ll sweep around to a custom lid on the stock air box.




Mock up, its gonna have to go back into the car to figure out the IC and intake piping.




I'll try to keep this post updated as things move along.
Gary

You will want to get a new style coolant crossover pipe to use an under inlet turbo. I am not saying it's impossible without it, but it's WAY easier with it. And you'll need to do something with the fuel rails. The rails are really what gets in the way for the turbo plumbing...

Matt Monson wrote:You will want to get a new style coolant crossover pipe to use an under inlet turbo. I am not saying it's impossible without it, but it's WAY easier with it...

What's the difference? Got a pic? And where can I find one, off a WRX?

On the rail I figured I'd just biuld my own.

Gary

You can get one off of an Ej20H twin turbo engine, or any WRX engine from 1997 and later. The only catch with the USDM pipe is that it uses a never single sensor instead of 2 like our old cars did. But it still has the boss for it and just needs to be drilled out and tapped. I don't have a picture, but maybe Splinter can post one of the one I just shipped to him. I don't have any more spares or I would offer one up...

Ill take a couple pics later on today.

If you can get your hands on a WRX power steering setup, that'll make your life a whole lot easier too.

if you decide to go with a USDM new style coolant crossover pipe you will need to pickup a 1/8”-28 BSP tap and appropriate drill bit for the cluster temperature gauge sensor. Assuming you care for the temperature gauge in the cluster. My advice would be to drill and tap 1/8NPT and install a sender for a real temperature gauge


Does anyone happen to have FSM for late model wrx or Impreza that can scan and post the specs for the new style three prong coolant sensor? (I am referring to the diagram/graph temperature vs. resistance )
I am just curios to see if the new and old style coolant sensor have the similar electrical characteristics.

Looking really good. Thanks for the comparison photos of the heads and the valve sizes. I have this combo on my motor, but it's not at turn key point just yet. Still parts to buy & sell before it all works.

Nice R/C helicopter BTW... I'm told they are hell to try and fly!!

Thanks guys, and keep it coming with any advice or warnings. Like all my projects I'm sure this one will move slow but I really miss driving my car so I'm hoping it wont take to long... its just time and money.

dropdfocus wrote: Nice R/C helicopter BTW... I'm told they are hell to try and fly!!

Thanks, R/C helis are probably the most challenging skill I have ever try to learn (and I’m very much still learning), best description I’ve ever heard is “its like trying to balance a marble on a bowling ball”. Then when the heli is pointing at you all the controls are backward . Its really about building instincts, if you have to think about what to do next its already to late. Then throw in that the average crash will cost you about $100 (and you will crash)... gets my heart racing every time I take it up.

And a pic...



Gary

Time for an update...

Plans have changed a little, block needs a bore, so why not go with forged pistons, and if going forged, why not go stroker.

My buddy down the road has lent me the use of his spair EJ20G engine (he said it needed tested anyway). Its installed waiting on a good front pulley before going into everyday service. I've done a little test running with an old pulley and a "test pipe" in place of the IC, no rec valve.



So now its a stroker build. Parts are starting to trickle in and I got my IC modified last weekend, forgive the ugly welding, its my first time doing aluminum. :p




looks like I'm going to have to buy a whole EJ2.5 to get my crank so if anybody needs the block or heads let me know. I need to make back some of the money I spent on a set or Prodrive P1 wheels I bought this week... that weren't in my budget.

Gary

Word. I'm glad to see this get off the ground. If you need any tech advise, I have full access to alldata(probably better than FSM) and I work at a dealership now, so I can find part #'s like nobodys business.

how much for the heads? will they bolt up to my engine? i was thinking about doing WRX heads but if these are avail now why not right?

I got dibs!

Yes, they will bolt up to a EJ22T, and with stock pistons will give you a CR of about 7.5:1. But you will need a DOHC intake, the JDM EJ20G is the simplest choice as it will use all of the stock sensors and such. Later USDM DOHC manifolds will require some some work or a rewire for a later ECU. I'm not sure on price yet, I need to check the going rate. They will need to be machined for water out and oil return but I'll be doing my set and a set for my buddy, I can do these to for a small charge. I'm going to pick up the engine tomorrow, I'll let ya know what kinda shape they're in after I get it torn down.

Gary

I would definately want them machined for water and such, so include that in the pricing. pm me when you know about a price.

Thanks

Well a little setback...

I tore down the EJ25 I bought and the crank is shot. Rod bearings were paper thin and one had spun, rod journals are all scored and undersize.

So, I'm still looking for a good phase I crank & rods.

But, other parts are coming in, working on mounting my wideband today and the Wiseco stroker pistons look super sexy.

I trying not to get to bummed about the crank & rods (and the $300 I spent on them).

Gary

Whoa, serious bummer!!! Sorry to hear about your misfortune.

Well more bad news, on the way home a truck through up a big rock and now I got this... Guess I needed a new one anyway.




But, on the up side, my Prodrive P1 wheels showed up today, they need to be refinished but otherwise are in great shape. And no, I have NO idea why they were painted green.




And I got my wideband installed yesterday, I'm not totaly happy with the look of the gauge/mount, it looks a little to "aftermarket" for my taste. I'll likey do something different down the road.




Wiseco Pistons lookin sexy.




And one of the current EJ20G swap, its a little messy, but I figure why put a lot of time into making it pretty when its only temporary.



More later
Gary

Wow, sorry to hear about the rock vs. windshield. True bummer there.

Isn't that fun when engine internals you get are all messed up? Forget cards, this kind of thing is enough gambling.

What plug wires are you using? They must be long with the coil pack way over there.

AWD_addict wrote:What plug wires are you using? They must be long with the coil pack way over there.

Drivers side is from a EJ set, passenger side from an EA Subie. Still not sure where the coil will end up when the stroker goes in cause the AC is going back on.

Gary

Maybe it could go in between the #2 and 4 intake runners, if there's room for the #1 and 3 wires under the manifold.

A little update...

I've decided to machine my block for thrust on #5 and run the Sti crank for the bigger rod bearings and better oiling (cross drilled). I haven't made the final decision on rods, I can run the Phase II EJ25 SOHC rods with the 5.167 length (gives 8.5:1 CR) or the Sti with the 5.137 length (8.0:1). I'm leaning tword the Sti rods but they will expose more of the oil ring to the wrist pin access hole. Crawford says this is not an issue, I'm still waiting to here back from Wiseco on the matter. The crank and both sets of rods should be here in a few days and I'll get it sorted out.

Gary

For the gauge pod that looks a little too aftermarket for you, get a bezel fabbed up for it to match the rest of the console. It'll still have an aftermarket look, but it won't be so plain nor should it stick out as much.

Chi_San wrote:For the gauge pod that looks a little too aftermarket for you, get a bezel fabbed up for it to match the rest of the console. It'll still have an aftermarket look, but it won't be so plain nor should it stick out as much.

Yeah, I'll likely do something similar to the gauges I added to the cluster...







Gary

you should get a better steering wheel

I like what you did with the cluster, looks real neat.