150K Mile Common Problem Questions

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 7:44 pm

Okay so what are some things that I need to watch now that she is only 1k below 150000mi?

The car is in the shop and having the brakes done by Dale at NWSG (livestrongs dads shop) and the timing belt done to...

I just got a call from him telling me that the CV Boot on the Front right side is shredded. So he is going to replace the entire front rightside driveaxle including the cv joints for $120 including parts and labor... I would have him do the other side but money is tight so I will hold off on that for a while.

What other things do I need to worry about and start watching for outside of tranny woes? ( 2nd gear synchro is slowly dying).

Thanks guy any response is helpful and feel free to ask me any quetion about the recent maintanence.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 8:46 pm

Its stock right?? Someone told me its a good idea to make sure the CV boot is lubed with silicone lube. I wonder if that would prevent the boot from cracking. Also if your synchro seems like its dying maybe you should change your gear oil.

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:29 pm

Thanks for the idea on the silicon boot lube and I have been looking at the gear oil thread and have an idea on that.

I just found out that the ball bearing or whatever it is are shot so there goes another $95. dAMN car

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:57 pm

Nothing. I drove mine across country with that mileage and all I did was brakes and struts prior. Nothing bad happened until I lost the transmission around 175k by doing J-turns in the parking lot at work.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:36 am

Pfff your worried about that little bit. I spent $3000 to fix a auto transmission and the jackass didn't even fix it.....

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 3:54 am

Yes but I am a 16yr old in college who is now totally broke and still need a starter and has to pay for gas and insurance and books and school clothes. So $405 for timing belt and brakes is enough... Now it is $625 for brakes, timing belt, passenger side axle/half shaft, and ball joint...
And still need to buy the last school book and a few more shirts.

So um yeah I kinda am low on cash...
The last time I checked my checking account it said $ .35.
And 0 in savings

stef1825 · Post by **stef1825** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 4:26 am

he he you're not the only one spending big $$ on a car ... and going to college ... and being tight in budget ... you don't even want to know how much I'm actually putting in my car ... once my timing belt, front crankshaft seal, camshaft seal .. and other stuff is done I'll add it up to all thats been done since I bought it in june ... already changed my speedometer cable and attachement to the tranny, changed the diff case (it was damaged when my F-L control arm broke) control arm, some bushing of some type, both front tires (front left was flat) .... anyhow I completely understand you .. ..

gotta love the feeling of driving a turbo leg, it's just such a nice feeling... just wish it was less of a money hole !!!

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 4:36 am

You should learn to work on it yourself. Even with cryo rotors it wouldn't cost that much. Regular brakes and T-belt should run under $200 in parts. I doubt a ball joint would be over $50 and an axle under $100. subaruparts.com is a dealer with excellent prices. These cars are great to learn on unless you're hopelessly mechanically uninclined. Starters aren't cheap and the cheap ones suck ass - they are almost guaranteed to fail within a few weeks and they never warranty labor on those damn 'lifetime warranty' parts. You might have some luck getting a used OEM one for less money. I definitely recommend that route on an alternator.

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 5:26 am

I payed $180 for the brake and timing belt parts. Then $45 for each ball joint. And I think $45 for a rebuilt axle

Manarius · Post by **Manarius** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 5:36 pm

I wouldn't worry about the ball bearings. Most of us drove with them being ruined and no hassles. My car had 158k when I got rid of it and the only things it needed were brakes, the occasional wheel bearing, and the occasional CV axle (by occasional I mean once every 5 years if that). It had blown struts, probably tired bearings, and whatever else you can think of. It was still extremely reliable.

Now, granted, I did most of the work on it myself so I saved a *ton of money. I did my SVX brakes in the parking lot of my apartment with just a ratchet set and a brake tool. The overall cost to do the brakes was $28.

If you'd wrench yourself, you wouldn't be out nearly as much money. My SVX will be a money pit for sure, but it'll see less of my money because I work on it myself.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:59 pm

For my car I did the brakes myself, was fairly easy as long as you don't have a lock pin that is seized to the caliper

It cost me $300 total a little less to do my brakes. How did it only cost you $28???? Did you make new pads with cement or something!!??!! and cut out of a piece of metal for new rotors.

I replaced 4 rotors, and all the brake pads and the front were ceramics and that cost included brake fluid to flush out the transmission fluid as it seemed when I bleeding the fluid....... all this = A very solid brake pedal and incredible stopping, also the pedal is right at the top before it was always on the floor.

Manarius · Post by **Manarius** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 10:18 pm

ericem wrote:For my car I did the brakes myself, was fairly easy as long as you don't have a lock pin that is seized to the caliper It cost me $300 total a little less to do my brakes. How did it only cost you $28???? Did you make new pads with cement or something!!??!! and cut out of a piece of metal for new rotors.

I replaced 4 rotors, and all the brake pads and the front were ceramics and that cost included brake fluid to flush out the transmission fluid as it seemed when I bleeding the fluid....... all this = A very solid brake pedal and incredible stopping, also the pedal is right at the top before it was always on the floor.

I didn't waste money and replace the rotors. I didn't waste money on new brake fluid.

My philosophy: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That wastes a lot of money. You sir, wasted a lot of money.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:00 pm

Not if his rotors were junk and not if his brake fluid was water. Brake fluid is cheap insurance. I know I like it when I step on the brakes and they work better than just putting my foot out the door.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:51 pm

Oh ya should have kept those pulsing rotors stupid me. and the rears with scrape marks on various spots. Nothing beats having to slam on my brakes to slow down from 40km to 0.

icrman · Post by **icrman** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:04 pm

It seems all shops get to legally up sell. Rotors, if they are a bit under spec, "sorry we can't cut them". Brake fluid, "we have to always flush the system when doing a brake job, its a law" or even if you want a tire fixed that is getting a bit worn, "sorry we can't fix an illegal tire", and the list goes on.
I can't blame them though, if you want a warranty on something like a timing belt job, they have to cover their butts. And replace things that may not need replacing, like water pump, and pulleys tensioner etc. also the extra they make on parts helps them if they have to redo it, they still gota pay the man twisting the wrench, plus his labor and industries insurance, rent, taxes and all else.

SubaruNation · Post by **SubaruNation** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:30 pm

evolutionmovement wrote:You should learn to work on it yourself. Even with cryo rotors it wouldn't cost that much. Regular brakes and T-belt should run under $200 in parts. I doubt a ball joint would be over $50 and an axle under $100. subaruparts.com is a dealer with excellent prices. These cars are great to learn on unless you're hopelessly mechanically uninclined. Starters aren't cheap and the cheap ones suck ass - they are almost guaranteed to fail within a few weeks and they never warranty labor on those damn 'lifetime warranty' parts. You might have some luck getting a used OEM one for less money. I definitely recommend that route on an alternator.

amen!
learn it here so you can save money to spend on other stuff

smh0101 · Post by **smh0101** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:38 am

I trust Dale... He seems like a good guy. And everybody is right I do need to learn to do it myself.

Total including labor teh brakes were $150 including new not turned rotos and new pads so that was a good deal.

It would of cost me like $900 bucks for everything there.

And now I made a deal with Dale for a full 3" Turbo back with a Magnaflow muffler for a website so watch out for the new website!

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150K Mile Common Problem Questions

150K Mile Common Problem Questions