I'm in a pickle...jar

[greatjorb88]

Hey there. It's me, the advice thief again. Anyway, long story short, I need a new engine, cause a chunk of metal got blown out of mine (I was and still am very pissed.) At first I though "screw this, I'm junking this and getting a better car after I can save up" but I've since kinda changed my mind. I'm wondering what it takes to do an engine swap, and what are wise options for getting an engine. The car is a 90 5MT with 175k mi on it. I've searched for ej22s on google and ebay and I've found either used ones for around 500, or the imports from japan with low mileage for aroiund 800. I'm wondering what's the best option if I'm gonna actually go ahead with this. Is it worth it to spend extra cash on a low mileage engine, or am I better off getting just a used one with around the same mileage as my car? Also, to those of you who have actually done this, how difficult is it, and how much time did you have to put into getting it done? Any input is highly appreciated, thank you very much!

[Arctic Assassian]

If you want a car that is going to run reliably, and not cost money for little things that break every so often, A ninetes subaru is not gonna be the car for you. I have two 91 turbos and while only spending 500 bucks for each vehicle, I've put 1500 bucks into them in the last year. They are easy as pie to work on, just pick up a chiltons manual, and come here for all your other questions, but lots of little things break, and with increasing age, parts disappear. I work at the parts counter at a dealer, and I have trouble coming up with some of the parts.

[evolutionmovement]

Don't bother with a turbo and you won't have any issues.

[greatjorb88]

Yeah, it's definately not a turbo, and from what I've heard, these cars are really good. I spent 2200 at the dealership for this car, and probly around 500 in repairs and maintenance (cv axles, crank pulley, belts, ignition wires, oil change, knock sensor...). Needless to say, I'm not buying from dealerships anymore, and I'm less than happy with this situation. So whaddaya guys think? Is it worth it to try and replace the engine? I just wanna be sure before junking a car that I (over)payed so much for. Also, this is my second car, and it makes me sick cause I was actually treating the car really well, and fixing everything that needed it....I just would hate to make a really big mistake junking it.

[asc_up]

hey i know EXACTLY what you're going through.
i bought my 91 SS for $3K and literally 6 days after driving it, the crank pulley wobbled off and destroyed the entire crankshaft.

so i was pissed. then i remember i got a bunch of money for graduation a few months later and i decided to find a used engine to drop in. i payed $800 for the engine, but not more than 2 days later i threw a rod bearing. so i had basically payed $4K for a piece of shit.


THEN i decided to do everything right. I took the car to a respectable subaru mechanic and payed $2K for him to properly tear down and rebuild the entire engine with all new seals and gaskets. new rod bearings. new radiator. and so on.

after doing that the car has been running great and it has a 2 year/2K mile warranty on the engine.


basically what i'm getting at is that i know what it's like to swim around in a bowl of shit. but it does get better. it just costs some $$$....
but i love my car now, and it's been worth the assload ($6K) of money to get it running great.

[evolutionmovement]

I'd recommend getting another N/A engine from a yard with 100k or less for a few hundred bucks and rebuilding it yourself. If you have a driveway (or a quiet street with neighbors that won't bother you), you can swap it out yourself as well. For the rebuild get a water pump, timing belt, belt tensioner (or reuse the one from your old motor if it's fairly new, but I wouldn't use one that's been sitting too long) gasket set, valve seals, etc. Maybe an oil pump, but I'd look at it first as it will likely be fine.

[greatjorb88]

WOW, asc_up! And here I am thinking my situation sucks....wow. Glad it's running good now! Okay, so pardon my inexperience evolutionmovement, but I only understood about half what you said. From what I understand, your advising me to buy an engine from a junkyard, and then replace all those parts you just listed? And I live out in the country so neighbors shouldn't be a problem. And I was planning on putting it in myself, I'd rather do that than pay someone 400 to do it for me. More input from others is appreciated as well. thank you!

[Arctic Assassian]

Good luck.

[internetautomart]

WOW, asc_up! And here I am thinking my situation sucks....wow. Glad it's running good now! Okay, so pardon my inexperience evolutionmovement, but I only understood about half what you said. From what I understand, your advising me to buy an engine from a junkyard, and then replace all those parts you just listed? And I live out in the country so neighbors shouldn't be a problem. And I was planning on putting it in myself, I'd rather do that than pay someone 400 to do it for me. More input from others is appreciated as well. thank you!

What's he's saying is basic good advice for any motor swap.
depending on the yard you may be able to run the motor before it is pulled, which is your best option. Don't pay too much attention to the mileage. pay attention to what it looks like inside. I've had cars start to knock at 60k, and I've had cars runnng perfect at 237k
my favorite example is a 94 beretta with 127k on it's 3.1 and a 94 grand am with 88k on it's 3.1 same vin code. the grandam had a broken rocker stud so we pulled one from the beretta (it was a parts car with no title and was sold on ebay) the inside of the beretta's motor looked so much better than the grand am's motor it was ridiculous. oh, and the grand am was maintained regularly and a 1 owner car.

[tris91ricer]

Engine swapping is almost like key swapping. Getting to the party is the hardest part. After that, mix a drink, grab your tool(s) and dig in with confidence. Wreck it up and don't think twice. And don't forget the gloves, you don't know where those JY engines have been.

[evolutionmovement]

Doesn't matter where they've been - they're all filthy.

Look around for a price on the non-turbo motor. You should be able to get a long block for a few hundred with decent mileage on it, even less for a short block, but it's good to have the extras and junk yards usually sell long blocks anyway as they just chop the lines and yank them out (unless it's a u-pull it yard). The engine plus all the rebuild stuff (subaruparts.com has good prices on OEM stuff) should easily see you under $800 and then you'll have an engine that you actually know the condition of and that should be maintenance free until the next timing belt change. You might want to pick up a knock sensor as well, but I'd strip your old motor for those kinds of parts anyway - if it's not cracked, it's probably fine.

[greatjorb88]

Hey thanks again. Okay, so once again, pardon my inexperience, but what's the difference between a long block and a short block? I'm gonna call some junkyards (non U-pull) around here and see what they've got.

[evolutionmovement]

Short block is just the block and internal parts (technically), but I've seen it often with the heads attached. Long block is the block, heads, and internals (technically), but I've usually seen it with the intake manifold, injectors, timing belt, sensors, etc. Basically, a yard only pulls off accessories as they can sell them separate, but leaves everything else to save time as they just have to pop the attachment bolts; cut the cooling, power steering lines, and wiring (sometimes they unplug them); and yank the engine with a chain and a forklift so they can stock it on a shelf.