legacycentral bbs

Here is a recent picture of the engine room. Most recent additions over the last four months have been the STI carbon fiber strut tower brace circa. 1996, the Koyo R1819 radiator and the Optima D35 battery.

looks good man!

I talked with Dave and Jake at PIA and they were saying that the Optima Yellow Tops were bad for daily drivers, because the Yellow Tops are deep cycle and meant for using the battery when your car is off...

They said that the Red Tops are the way to go.

OTHER THAN THAT, holy fuck!! How did you keep that thing so clean looking? That's amazing. Haha. It honestly looks like it's the engine bay of a new car.

Damn, son... talk about clean enough to eat off of!
Nice setup.

Looks great! Very well put together!

Did the brace make a pretty huge difference?? Looks awesome BTW.

The brace made a positive improvement, but would not say huge. It is a very nice piece, looks good, has a heritage, and adds to the ambiance of the engine room, so I am happy with it.

Hows that radiator?

Looks sweet BTW... I just took a spray bottle of De-greaser to my engine bay... there was a lot of crud...

tits indeed!

asc_up wrote:I talked with Dave and Jake at PIA and they were saying that the Optima Yellow Tops were bad for daily drivers, because the Yellow Tops are deep cycle and meant for using the battery when your car is off...

They said that the Red Tops are the way to go.

I'll call BS on that. The yellow tops are a combo starting/deep cycle battery. The blue tops are solely deep cycle marine batteries.

There's no reason for a red top. They provide very high CCA's, but I don't see why that's necessary on our cars. If you had a big block with high compression ratio, sure....but on our cars....no.

Can you explain to me why a combo deep cycle and starting battery is not the way to go unless you're running an engine that needs very high CCA's?

Legacy777 wrote:
I'll call BS on that. The yellow tops are a combo starting/deep cycle battery. The blue tops are solely deep cycle marine batteries.

There's no reason for a red top. They provide very high CCA's, but I don't see why that's necessary on our cars. If you had a big block with high compression ratio, sure....but on our cars....no.

Can you explain to me why a combo deep cycle and starting battery is not the way to go unless you're running an engine that needs very high CCA's?

Agreed

555BCTurbo wrote:

Legacy777 wrote:
I'll call BS on that. The yellow tops are a combo starting/deep cycle battery. The blue tops are solely deep cycle marine batteries.

There's no reason for a red top. They provide very high CCA's, but I don't see why that's necessary on our cars. If you had a big block with high compression ratio, sure....but on our cars....no.

Can you explain to me why a combo deep cycle and starting battery is not the way to go unless you're running an engine that needs very high CCA's?

Agreed

Lol I was with you guys on this. But my friend had one in his Impreza EJ20G swap and they said it was a no-no because the battery would work fine, but not last nearly as long because it's not meant to be recharged all of the time (like a normal car battery). It's apparently meant to be run down pretty far and then charged up, unlike in a car where it's being continuously charged by the alternator.

I'm definitely not an expert on this subject, but I was just relaying a concern that I had learned about previously. If Jake15 sees this I'm sure he could chime in.

I read what Optima had to say about their Reds and Yellows, and that the Red had many more CCA than OEM that I don't need, yellow just five more, wanted power for the stereo when the engine is not running, and believe that the Yellow suited my needs better than the Red. Either way, for what they cost, they damn well better be a good battery. Form your own opinion, and get what you want.

I am running a yellow top. Love it. Couldn't be happier.

Looking good! How hard was it to install that rad?

I am going to park next to you next time and my wagon will leach crap onto yours..... and your wires will start kinking, the looms will start falling apart, the rust will appear, and oil will rain upon you like frogs from heaven!!!!

Damn Doug, thats like the ten plagues of the automobile world... But I missed the reference to the first born... hrms.

douglas vincent wrote:I am going to park next to you next time and my wagon will leach crap onto yours..... and your wires will start kinking, the looms will start falling apart, the rust will appear, and oil will rain upon you like frogs from heaven!!!!

Very harsh. Hahaha.

Adam--the radiator was no problem. Drain, remove the old, clean the livin daylights out of everything you can reach with your tongue (just kidding, I used a rag), cut an inch off of the radiator hoses, fill, then clean some more, simple.

Doug--that's all fine and good, everyone should have dreams. Just bring good beer!

asc_up wrote:Lol I was with you guys on this. But my friend had one in his Impreza EJ20G swap and they said it was a no-no because the battery would work fine, but not last nearly as long because it's not meant to be recharged all of the time (like a normal car battery). It's apparently meant to be run down pretty far and then charged up, unlike in a car where it's being continuously charged by the alternator.

I'm definitely not an expert on this subject, but I was just relaying a concern that I had learned about previously. If Jake15 sees this I'm sure he could chime in.

That's retarded. Deep cycle batteries are meant to be discharged and charged quite frequently. I have not heard anything that says they must be fully discharged. I guess these guys haven't heard of battery tenders. What do they do...maintain a trickle charging voltage on batteries. You see them all the time on marine deep cycles, or used with trolling motors.

Anyway....You know my opinion.....

Legacy777 wrote:

asc_up wrote:Lol I was with you guys on this. But my friend had one in his Impreza EJ20G swap and they said it was a no-no because the battery would work fine, but not last nearly as long because it's not meant to be recharged all of the time (like a normal car battery). It's apparently meant to be run down pretty far and then charged up, unlike in a car where it's being continuously charged by the alternator.

I'm definitely not an expert on this subject, but I was just relaying a concern that I had learned about previously. If Jake15 sees this I'm sure he could chime in.

That's retarded. Deep cycle batteries are meant to be discharged and charged quite frequently. I have not heard anything that says they must be fully discharged. I guess these guys haven't heard of battery tenders. What do they do...maintain a trickle charging voltage on batteries. You see them all the time on marine deep cycles, or used with trolling motors.

Anyway....You know my opinion.....

Haha ok. Well I was kind of shocked when they told us that too because my friend has had a yellow top for about 2 years now. I was just relaying, what appears to be false, information. Sorry.

I had an Optima Yellow Top in my '95 Escort (BIG stereo installed), then transfered it to my '01 Focus ZX3, got rid of the Focus & now it sits on a trickle charger. The battery is 7 yrs old and works just fine... Exide makes a good deep cycle combo battery as well (has a black top for those who dislike the red or yellow coloring). I'd buy another Yellow Top in a heart beat!

BTW, DAMN SON!!!!!! That's one of THE CLEANEST engine bays I have ever seen in my life. I'd freak if it became dirty again (things like that never stay clean in PA). Also, if your STi carbon fiber bar is missing, don't come to my house looking for it...

Thanks, anyone can do it. Once you get it clean, it stays clean easier. After initially using engine cleaner/degreaser, just wax every painted surface you can reach. That is where the work is, really extending yourself to get into the crannies. Whenever something is removed, take the opportunity to degreasse/clean the area and wax it. Next time it gets muddy or dusty, it rinses off easier. Also, I have changed most of the seals now, so don't have anymore leaks. When your components are clean, you don't have to worry about dirt and debris falling into the system when you open it up. My '00 OBW engine room is clean also, I have kept it up since new. Maintaining cleanliness and FME (Foreign Material Exclusion), really helps maintain your machinery. After 34 years of Naval Nuclear machinery repair, I know this to be true.

yeah maybe lets just calm down and agree that optima batteries are better than wal-mart batteries people.

i know nobody want to argue about that

kleinkid wrote:Thanks, anyone can do it. Once you get it clean, it stays clean easier. After initially using engine cleaner/degreaser, just wax every painted surface you can reach. That is where the work is, really extending yourself to get into the crannies. Whenever something is removed, take the opportunity to degreasse/clean the area and wax it. Next time it gets muddy or dusty, it rinses off easier. Also, I have changed most of the seals now, so don't have anymore leaks. When your components are clean, you don't have to worry about dirt and debris falling into the system when you open it up. My '00 OBW engine room is clean also, I have kept it up since new. Maintaining cleanliness and FME (Foreign Material Exclusion), really helps maintain your machinery. After 34 years of Naval Nuclear machinery repair, I know this to be true.

some places will steam clean for you too,
never had it done but it works great i hear.

asc_up wrote:
Haha ok. Well I was kind of shocked when they told us that too because my friend has had a yellow top for about 2 years now. I was just relaying, what appears to be false, information. Sorry.

No worries....