Page 1 of 2
stripped oil line banjo bolt hole thingy ;-) PICS UP
Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 1:21 am
by what huh
Well i was on the way to put the banjo bolt back on (block to oil feed line) and notice that there are metal shavings on my bolt.
Next i look in the hole and the first 4-5 threads are gone.
Then i look at the bolt and its all intact.
I also notice that there are still 6-8 threads that the bolt didn't touch(reason for question 1)
Now questions:
1) How long is this Banjo Bolt supose to be?
2) can i get a longer one to use these 6-8 threads?
close up
i think i can get a longer bolt what do you think?
Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 4:31 am
by SubaruNation
like your oil pan?
maybe you have to get a new one, i hope not
and i think it's supposed to b as long as it was when you pulled it out
i found a whole bunch of info pertaining to the bajo bolt that has to do with the turbocharger, but not our model year
Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:31 pm
by what huh
no this is the where the block meets the turbo oil line. the threads on the block are stripped.
Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:22 pm
by what huh
please
Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:53 pm
by SubaruNation
try putting a link in your signature, that works wonders for me

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:14 pm
by what huh
cool beans will do
Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 12:52 am
by SubaruNation
better make that "help" be bold and red
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:08 am
by what huh
still need help with this question
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:10 am
by All_talk
If there is room in the head you might be able to tap the hole deeper and make a longer custom bolt. Or if there is enough meat in the casting you might be able to tap it bigger and install a sleeve. Whatever you do its gonna be tricky to keep the shavings out of the oil. Some pictures would help, and I'll try and remember to look at my stock heads to see what the options might be.
Gary
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:51 am
by asc_up
Yeah, while you're tapping it I'd try to find a way to place a magnet as close to it as possible.
That way it'll attract most of the metal shavings to it.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:18 am
by PhyrraM
asc_up wrote:Yeah, while you're tapping it I'd try to find a way to place a magnet as close to it as possible.
That way it'll attract most of the metal shavings to it.
Unfortunatly that trick doesn't work on aluminum. Greasing the drill and tap will help some. If you do the best you can to keep the shavings contained, you can crank the engine with the hole open to flush out the remaining chips. Makes a mess though.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:23 am
by asc_up
Ah interesting. I didn't know that! Thanks for the info lol.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:22 pm
by All_talk
Is this the tapped hole you are talking about?
If so, that part of the head comes off (note the 4 bolts). You could find a replacement or at the very least remove it to make the repair without getting chips in the oil system. I haven't taken a close look at the part, but from the looks of it in the picture I dont think tapping it deeper or bigger is going to be an opiton. But I bet somebody on the board could make you a good deal on one off an old/bad head.
Gary
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:18 pm
by what huh
no thats not the hole i will try to get some pictures up tonight.
And thanks for all the help guys
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 3:29 am
by what huh
PICS UP
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 3:47 am
by PhyrraM
That IS the same peice that All Talk was trying to show you. It's a bolt on to the back of the head.
BlackBart FTW!
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:37 am
by Aerotech
Yeah, just remove that piece from the head, take it to a machine shop to have a Heli-coil put into it...mine was the same way...I just put the bolt back in and torqued it reeeeal gently.
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:33 am
by what huh
but does anybody think getting a longer bolt would work?
to use up those extra threads.
the reason why im pushing that is because i have a way to get them in like five mins
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:16 pm
by All_talk
The longer bolt might work fine, but make sure it’s not too long, if it bottoms out in threads it won’t seal and when you try and snug it up to make it stop leaking it will pull the rest of the threads out. Also, make sure the sealing faces on the fitting and bolt are good and use new sealing washers so that it will seal with minimal pressure. If you have to really wrench it down you will likely pull what’s left of the threads. I say try it (I would), if it doesn’t work then you will have to go the long way around.
Good luck.
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:57 pm
by what huh
thats what i'll do then, because is it strips it more i will have to take it off anyways.
Thanks guys
Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:45 am
by 93forestpearl
They put that many threads there for a reason. Only using 6-8 aluminum threads may not be enough to hold the 80+psi of oil pressure that is seen right there (I have my oil pressure gauge there, and that through five feet of -3 line).
Just take the thing off and get it heli-coiled or buy a different one from someone on here. Seriously, its only two o-rings that seal it to the actual head. Cripes, I have one if not two extras laying around, and I could find you 4231345 more by the end of the night. Everybody have Tleg heads laying around. If you want one, PM me.
Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:05 am
by what huh
93forestpearl wrote:They put that many threads there for a reason. Only using 6-8 aluminum threads may not be enough to hold the 80+psi of oil pressure that is seen right there.
well the bolt was only using the 4-5 threads since those were the ones that were stripped
Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:18 am
by 93forestpearl
Well, give it a shot and see what happens. I'll pull that plate and get it ready in case.
Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:40 am
by what huh
i was just reading my haynes manual andit said that i should torque this banjo bolt to 140lbs, is that right. sounds way to high to me
Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:27 am
by PhyrraM
Probably inch-pounds.