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I don't know the original application.

I'm sure they would work. They are a little large....and if I'm going to shell out that kind of money, I'd prefer the craftsmanship be better and the fitment be better.

Josh,

Are you using a stock turbo with your system? I'm debating between and AWIC or an A2A IC.

How pleased are you with your set up? What sort of boost are you running? Was the install difficult?

Thanks,
Conrad

I'm using a deadbolt TD05-16G.

I've been very pleased with the AWIC setup, it's amazing how much cooler the IC is compared to a standard A/A top mount.

I'm running more or less stock boost for the time being until I get my Link installed.

Install was not easy. There was a decent amount of work to just get the IC to fit, plus installing the radiator & pump. So yeah...it's not a very easy install. Here's pics of the TD05 & AWIC install so you have an idea of what's involved.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ages/td05/

hello josh on this picture

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_6959.JPG

you got like a tiny rectangular box with two hose right by side of the air filter what it is exactly cuz the rest of the layout of the care is exactly the same as mine


between the charcoal canister and the air filter what is this box are for

thx in advance

yaz

It's an oil catch can.

It's supposed to allow oil mist to condense so that it doesn't go through your intake tract and muck up the intercooler. However I haven't been overly impressed with it.

I may need to add some steel wool or baffling material for the oil mist to condense on.

I have the same catch can on the OBS-T - got it free from one of my friends.

Is your Can Empty inside (no filter...)?

Mines is empty inside I fiqured the only way it could function would be if the air changes direction quickly enough to have the oils momentum carry it to the walls in the can.

I have a clear hose going to my turbo inlet & it is still clear + my oil stays clean for a long time (I have the long Canton filter on that car which I'm sure helps - 100% filtered oil no bypass.) & does not smell like gas quickly either - I guess its working....

i was interested in the blue oil can
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perform ... atch_Tanks.

and there is some intercooler anyone can tell e which one from your experience should fit easely

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/S ... tercoolers

is this worth buying a new radiator too.?

the search button is your friend.

BXSS wrote:I have the same catch can on the OBS-T - got it free from one of my friends.

Is your Can Empty inside (no filter...)?

Mines is empty inside I fiqured the only way it could function would be if the air changes direction quickly enough to have the oils momentum carry it to the walls in the can.

I have a clear hose going to my turbo inlet & it is still clear + my oil stays clean for a long time (I have the long Canton filter on that car which I'm sure helps - 100% filtered oil no bypass.) & does not smell like gas quickly either - I guess its working....

Yes mine is empty inside.

The principal of how they're supposed to work is not really the flow changing direction, but changing volume. However I'm not confident that it works.

For a while the clear portion of the tube started turning brown, but feeling inside, it wasn't oily. So I assumed the exhaust gases were turning it brown. I have since checked it, and I remember it being a little slimey.

When I do my standalone work, and pull the intake manifold to put in a temp sensor, I'm planning to check the catch can and the PCV system.

Why do you have to remove the intake manifold to install a temp sensor? I removed the throttle body, which allows you to put a "catch" in there to collect chips when you drill and then tap the hole. You can then vacuum out the area in there also.

kleinkid wrote:Why do you have to remove the intake manifold to install a temp sensor? I removed the throttle body, which allows you to put a "catch" in there to collect chips when you drill and then tap the hole. You can then vacuum out the area in there also.

I don't want to rely solely on a "catch" to make sure all the metal shavings are out. Plus drilling where I want to would be damn near impossible.

It's just easier removing the intake manifold. I've got a few other things I plan to do with it off. So no big deal.

My intake temp sensor is right on the TMIC in front of the t-body on my OBS-T.

Finally got the new exchanger. It's pretty, and I think it will work great.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... exchanger/

Wow. That looks to be perfect for the application! Do you know its fluid capacity?

No I don't know the fluid capacity yet. I just got them friday, and spent most of my weekend working on the impreza. I'll try and get the capacity this week.

It's a custom exchanger that was done by Bell Intercoolers here in Texas. The core was setup based off of this sketch I did.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... iagram.pdf

Nice sketch :p

Can you explain why you chose that shape/size? (pm sent)

I chose that shape based on the area I had to work with in the front of the car. I will be notching the bumper beam, but did not want to completely remove the bumper beam. So that limited my depth. The height was limited based upon where the grill snaps into the vertical radiator core support. The length was limited based upon the fittings sticking out of the AC condensor. There's probably some wiggle room in there, and I'm sure I'll probably be doing some trimming, but that was my thought process/layout of the shape/size.

This is a little off topic, but I would like to know when I get mine ready to hook up. Does the pump run all the time? To me the pump would only need to run when you are on boost and then for some time after being on boost to cool things back down. Just a ittle curious how everyone else does it.

Nice radiator by the way.

Jeff

Jefferson: I had a similar question to you. I was planning to find a coolant temp switch that I could set for say 85 degress F and connect it to a relay that drove the pump.

I think the factory system drove the pump at low speed all the time and switched to high speed when manifold pressure increased?

So far I haven't found a temp switch with such a low value.

My pump runs all the time.

The thing with water is that it doesn't change temperature very quickly. So if the pump isn't running, you could get hot spots, and then when you want it to run, you have to try and cool it down....it just doesn't work.

You at least need some sort of flow going through the system. It is a system/process, and in order for it to work, you need flow at least of some kind all the time.

You could try and do a resistor setup like the stock system. The ECU actually activated it.

Since I'm going stand alone, I could hook one of my aux outputs to switch the pump to high or low flow.

I wanted to put the pump at a low speed and switch to high based on temperature but so far I cannot find a "low" temperature switch.

Manifold pressure might be an option.

Does Spearco have a website? I found this on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1399134 and I am wondering if its just a regular air-air core.

I did a quick search, and it didn't appear that spearco had a website.

Capacity of the exchanger is 3-5/8 cup. Almost a quart.

Ooh, I just noticed in one of your pictures that dandy Samco hose from the turbo to the IC. It has a molded BOV elbow on it. What's the number for that? I've been looking for that little bugger!

This thread has the info
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... samco+hose

Some more info/pics of the hose here
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... samco+hose