i will be racing some road courses in southern california this summer and i was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on what i need to get done before i race. i have come up with a short list so far:
race brake pads(i would really prefer to stick with my stock brakes right now but if it is absolutely necessary, i will switch to some wrx brakes andget the bobcats for those.)
stainless steel brake lines and new fluid(motul good?)
koyo radiator(i only see it made for turbos, will it fit a N/A okay?)
general exclaim uhp tires
oil change(with castrol syntec and mobil 1 filter?)
remove the splash cover/guard from the brake rotors
anything else?
i already changed the atf and the differential fluid.
i was thinking of leaving normal pads on for everyday use and then put on the race pads when i get to the track. any input would be appreciated
how to race prep a car?
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how to race prep a car?
94 AT FWD N/A wagon-gutted daily driver.
it is gutted, sorry about the delay on pictures for those who are waiting. i procrastinate. and yes, i will bed in the race pads. i guess it'll be kind of a hassle to bed them in each time huh? and no, my life insurance is not paid up. i am 19 years old. i have no family to worry about supporting.
94 AT FWD N/A wagon-gutted daily driver.
you can't use a turbo radiator. as long as the stock one isn't leaking and the coolant is fresh and bled you don't have to worry.
There aren't many race pads out there for our brakes that I know of. It's probably a good idea to go up in size a bit to RS brakes. Even then things are going to be really really hot in that area. Home-made cooling ducts for the front would be a good idea. SS lines are kind of unnecessary.
The best way to go about using race pads is to have a separate set of [front] rotors to go along with them. Then you can swap both and not worry about bed-in. The track rotors will probably need replacing after a few sessions anyway. Get whatever's cheap at the parts store.
Your front wheel bearings will not last long at all.
stock suspension is going to be terrible, especially if the struts aren't fresh. you're going to see a lot of body roll and understeer. Slot your front struts and shoot for -3 degrees of camber. Also try to find some bigger swaybars on the cheap. The FAQ explains what fits.
A fwd auto isn't really the ideal track car, especially if you plan to daily drive it. Maybe consider a cheap track-only car like an older civic or miata?
There aren't many race pads out there for our brakes that I know of. It's probably a good idea to go up in size a bit to RS brakes. Even then things are going to be really really hot in that area. Home-made cooling ducts for the front would be a good idea. SS lines are kind of unnecessary.
The best way to go about using race pads is to have a separate set of [front] rotors to go along with them. Then you can swap both and not worry about bed-in. The track rotors will probably need replacing after a few sessions anyway. Get whatever's cheap at the parts store.
Your front wheel bearings will not last long at all.
stock suspension is going to be terrible, especially if the struts aren't fresh. you're going to see a lot of body roll and understeer. Slot your front struts and shoot for -3 degrees of camber. Also try to find some bigger swaybars on the cheap. The FAQ explains what fits.
A fwd auto isn't really the ideal track car, especially if you plan to daily drive it. Maybe consider a cheap track-only car like an older civic or miata?
thanks!
how about running just water and redline water wetter instead of the 50/50 antifreeze water mix? since it never gets that cold here in socal, i should be okay right? especially since i'll only be racing in the summer.
as for brakes, about how much am i looking at? 100? 200? if rs brakes are about the same price as wrx brakes, wouldnt i just want the wrx brakes? the selection for those would be much better im guessing. and ss lines seem like more of a safety precaution for me, since i have the stock ones that are 170k miles old.
front bearings are not repackable i heard? so i would need to replace the whole hub. but if i did that, then i should be good for a long while?
stock suspension is not what i would be running. i will be running the whiteline front springs with turbo rear springs. so 176 and 190 i think. and gr-2's. and are you saying to shoot for -3 front and back? or just front and leave the back at like -1?
sorry about all the questions.
and yeah, a fwd auto is not anywhere near an ideal track car, but hopefully it will pull off decent enough times to at least stay with the other cars in its class.
how about running just water and redline water wetter instead of the 50/50 antifreeze water mix? since it never gets that cold here in socal, i should be okay right? especially since i'll only be racing in the summer.
as for brakes, about how much am i looking at? 100? 200? if rs brakes are about the same price as wrx brakes, wouldnt i just want the wrx brakes? the selection for those would be much better im guessing. and ss lines seem like more of a safety precaution for me, since i have the stock ones that are 170k miles old.
front bearings are not repackable i heard? so i would need to replace the whole hub. but if i did that, then i should be good for a long while?
stock suspension is not what i would be running. i will be running the whiteline front springs with turbo rear springs. so 176 and 190 i think. and gr-2's. and are you saying to shoot for -3 front and back? or just front and leave the back at like -1?
sorry about all the questions.
and yeah, a fwd auto is not anywhere near an ideal track car, but hopefully it will pull off decent enough times to at least stay with the other cars in its class.
94 AT FWD N/A wagon-gutted daily driver.
okay, i guess the real reason for not racing some other, more capable car, is simply because i have put so much time and money into this car and it runs perfectly. i really dont like the idea of getting another used car full of little problems that i would have to spend more huge amounts of money into. i just dont have that kind of money. and it would be sad to see my first car go.
94 AT FWD N/A wagon-gutted daily driver.
no stick with a 50/50 mix of subaru coolant and distilled water. The coolant increases the boiling point and has anti-oxidants and whatnot in it I guess.
the pad choices for rs and wrx brakes are the same, since they use the same pad shape. But yes, you want the biggest brakes that will fit under your wheels if you're going to the track. I bought my wrx calipers and brackets for $100 so you should be able to get them for that or less. Come to the Aerosim BBQ on may 4th; there are a few sets laying around there I'm sure you could buy for cheap.
Shoot for -3 degrees of camber up front. With our suspension geometry, you have to make up for body roll with negative camber, and it's most important to have a lot up front. Generally you want 0.5 to 1 degree less in the rear. Just loosen everything up and pound on it to get the most out of it.
I'm not saying use a more capable car, I'm saying use a cheaper car to track that isn't your daily driver. Running hard at the track all day puts a lot of wear on the brakes, tires, suspension, wheel bearings, and transmission, to name a few. A little 2-door civic has better suspension geometry, and mostly is lighter and will be cheaper to track. A set of rotors and pads and the wheel bearings and tires will only last a few track days. On top of that, if you spin a bearing on your beater track only car, you still have a DD.
the pad choices for rs and wrx brakes are the same, since they use the same pad shape. But yes, you want the biggest brakes that will fit under your wheels if you're going to the track. I bought my wrx calipers and brackets for $100 so you should be able to get them for that or less. Come to the Aerosim BBQ on may 4th; there are a few sets laying around there I'm sure you could buy for cheap.
Shoot for -3 degrees of camber up front. With our suspension geometry, you have to make up for body roll with negative camber, and it's most important to have a lot up front. Generally you want 0.5 to 1 degree less in the rear. Just loosen everything up and pound on it to get the most out of it.
I'm not saying use a more capable car, I'm saying use a cheaper car to track that isn't your daily driver. Running hard at the track all day puts a lot of wear on the brakes, tires, suspension, wheel bearings, and transmission, to name a few. A little 2-door civic has better suspension geometry, and mostly is lighter and will be cheaper to track. A set of rotors and pads and the wheel bearings and tires will only last a few track days. On top of that, if you spin a bearing on your beater track only car, you still have a DD.
thanks! i've never heard of the aeroism bbq. where is that? and yeah, about the cheap track only car. i guess that makes sense. it would be kool to say that i race my car on the track, but yeah, if i mess anything up, it'll be a pain to have to fix it before i can drive again.
94 AT FWD N/A wagon-gutted daily driver.
aerosim bbq: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1495247
Steve's a really cool guy and his stash of parts has saved my ass a few times.
Also I live in San Pedro. I'll just PM you to keep all this out of the thread.
Steve's a really cool guy and his stash of parts has saved my ass a few times.
Also I live in San Pedro. I'll just PM you to keep all this out of the thread.