Busted crank pulley

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:32 pm

I can't imagine this happens often as I could not find a post relating to it, but I broke a crank pulley. I installed new A/C belts and PS/Alt belts and two days later the crank pulley is broken. It is still somehow attached to the crank, but it spins pretty freely and very wobbly. Kind of like a wheel with a really bad bearing. But there is no bearing!.

Any thoughts? Did i tighten the belts too much? The car is drivable and there does not seem to be any internal engine damage.

I have not undone the crank bolt yet. Obviously I need a new pulley, but does anyone think that I did damaged to the crank. What about the key that fits into the crank and keeps the pulley from spinning. The Woodruff key?

Also, what is the crank bolt size? I think its a 22 mm, but some website said 23.

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:40 pm

Are you sure the crank bolt is still tight?

That's really weird to hear that you broke the pulley. Definitely try and get some pictures....

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:56 pm

Well I guess I'm not sure if I broke the pulley yet. Its just loose, but still on there. I did find some articles of broken crankshaft keys and rounded off crankshafts, I'm worried this has happened to my car. Do you know the part number for the key and the pulley bolt size?

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:07 pm

Perhaps the bolt came loose and it slid off...I'm worried its worse then that though.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:21 am

You now need a new harmonic pulley, and key. Be sure to retorque it to 140ft-lb's. Replace the bolt if the threads looked damaged if not just clean it up and put locktite on it. That should hold it good.

Saskatoon Subaru · Post by **Saskatoon Subaru** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:36 am

if you busted the keyway, could have a lot of work ahead of you...ps this has happened very often.

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:36 pm

Welcome to the club!

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=29036

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:17 pm

Thanks for the reply's.

Does anyone know the part number for the key?

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:37 pm

Part Number 804505060

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:00 pm

Great,

Can anyone confirm that the crank bolt head takes a 22mm socket?

Hocrest · Post by **Hocrest** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:39 pm

Yeah, 22mm.

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:32 pm

I got everything apart. The crank pully was completely worm through. Like the key it eaten all the way around the inside.

The slot in the crankshaft timing gear is eaten up a bit, so I am going to replace the gear.

The key-way in the crank is a little chewed up on the left side. I guess I'm going to fill it with something like jb weld and hope it holds. Does anyone have any recomendations for this?

The crank itself does not seem to be too worn down where the pulley was. I'm just going to slap the pulley on, tighten the hell out of the crank bolt and wait for it to fail again.

Also, I noticed that the timing was off for the driver's side cam but about 15 degrees. I had always had problems passing emissions, poor gas mileage and a not so smooth idle. Hopefully setting the timing correctly will fix things.

Any other advice?

Thanks

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:53 pm

Are you sure you had the timing marks correct? I would think if your timing/teeth were off that much, the car wouldn't run.

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:55 pm

Is there supposed to be a washer between the pulley and the crank bolt?

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:57 pm

The timing marks are very clearly makred on the cam gears. I dunno though. Could they be miss marked?

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:06 pm

No washer

You used the mark on the outside of the cam sprocket, like this?
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_2730.JPG

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:10 pm

Yeah, those are the marks.

I think I am going to try to fill in the keyway with quicksteel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/ ... ksteel.jpg

any thoughts?

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:58 pm

I'm thinking now that I want to drill a new key. I'm thinking about drilling into the crank, crank pulley and gear from the front of the engine to create a new keyway and then use the drill bit as the key. Has anyone tried this?

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu May 01, 2008 5:44 pm

I wouldn't recommend it.

skid542 · Post by **skid542** » Thu May 01, 2008 7:29 pm

I would not recommend trying to install a new keyway.

I had the same problem except a little bit worse, http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=15656. My keyway was completely sheared out and toasted. I ended up JB welding the whole crank pully on. While this did make it impossible to remove the crankpulley, if you cut your timing belt cover down the middle it doesn't matter. I'd recommend changing the main crank seal first as you'd never be able to afterwards.

FWIW, my JB weld job held up to 10-20k of regular NA redline abuse just fine.

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Sat May 10, 2008 2:28 am

I used quick steel to fill in the key well, put a new key in and lightly tapped a new cam gear on. Its on there pretty well and the quick steel hardened up nicely.

I'll be putting the car back together tomorrow and was wondering if anyone knows the torque specs for the timing belt idlers?

Thanks

Glenn

tyrone · Post by **tyrone** » Tue May 20, 2008 7:05 pm

another way that works would be to weld if on....yea it would suck if u had to remove it but thats what happend to mine and welding it worked fine

legacycentral bbs

A forum for 89-94 BC-BF(BJ) Legacy Owners and Fans

Busted crank pulley

Busted crank pulley