Ok so hmmm it seems to be consistent and it always throws these three codes. They are (24) Air control valve, (32) O2 sensor, (35) canister purge solenoid valve. Any suggestions on what could be causing this?
I did replace my o2 sensor with a used one awhile back and it went away for awhile... but now its back. The air control valve has been doing this off and on now since i got the car. The purge solenoid valve is the most recent problem that has shown up. any help would be great thank you!
These codes sometimes come on sometimes don't. I tryed resetting my ECU but they still are there when i pull codes after rehooking up my battery.
Throwing 3 codes...
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Throwing 3 codes...
-Aaron
93 Imp wag, 94 Imp wag WRX swap, 99 Imp Sedan WRX swap, 01 Imp Outback Sport, 05 Outback XT, 00 Outback, 98 Outback, 93 Leg touring, 93 Leg wag, 94 Leg wag lifted ej22t swap, 79 Brat 4x4 EA81 4spd d/r swap, 97 Crown Vic lifted
93 Imp wag, 94 Imp wag WRX swap, 99 Imp Sedan WRX swap, 01 Imp Outback Sport, 05 Outback XT, 00 Outback, 98 Outback, 93 Leg touring, 93 Leg wag, 94 Leg wag lifted ej22t swap, 79 Brat 4x4 EA81 4spd d/r swap, 97 Crown Vic lifted
Anyone? Could i possibly be the o2 sensor making the other two throw???
-Aaron
93 Imp wag, 94 Imp wag WRX swap, 99 Imp Sedan WRX swap, 01 Imp Outback Sport, 05 Outback XT, 00 Outback, 98 Outback, 93 Leg touring, 93 Leg wag, 94 Leg wag lifted ej22t swap, 79 Brat 4x4 EA81 4spd d/r swap, 97 Crown Vic lifted
93 Imp wag, 94 Imp wag WRX swap, 99 Imp Sedan WRX swap, 01 Imp Outback Sport, 05 Outback XT, 00 Outback, 98 Outback, 93 Leg touring, 93 Leg wag, 94 Leg wag lifted ej22t swap, 79 Brat 4x4 EA81 4spd d/r swap, 97 Crown Vic lifted
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How does the car drive? I was getting the exact same three codes and it turned out that my ECU ground wire bolt was loose. The bolt is located on the intake manifold right behind the #4 injector. That is the injector on the drivers side closest to the firewall.
It started out with intermittent code 32 and 35. Then I started getting 24. Eventually I started getting drive-ability problems and hard starting.
It started out with intermittent code 32 and 35. Then I started getting 24. Eventually I started getting drive-ability problems and hard starting.
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Also, you are not resetting the ECU correctly. The reset process is actually sort of complicated. It is outlined here:
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/eng ... l#resetecu
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/eng ... l#resetecu
Hmm i usually just unplugged the negative side the battery and it seemed to work. But all try this other way thanks.
-Aaron
93 Imp wag, 94 Imp wag WRX swap, 99 Imp Sedan WRX swap, 01 Imp Outback Sport, 05 Outback XT, 00 Outback, 98 Outback, 93 Leg touring, 93 Leg wag, 94 Leg wag lifted ej22t swap, 79 Brat 4x4 EA81 4spd d/r swap, 97 Crown Vic lifted
93 Imp wag, 94 Imp wag WRX swap, 99 Imp Sedan WRX swap, 01 Imp Outback Sport, 05 Outback XT, 00 Outback, 98 Outback, 93 Leg touring, 93 Leg wag, 94 Leg wag lifted ej22t swap, 79 Brat 4x4 EA81 4spd d/r swap, 97 Crown Vic lifted
when i connect the two sets of wires and turn the ignition on i get this humming noise coming from the engine around thr maf. then it goes away after 5 seconds. is this normal?glennda5id wrote:Also, you are not resetting the ECU correctly. The reset process is actually sort of complicated. It is outlined here:
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/eng ... l#resetecu
93SS 04 wrx brakes/slotted w/ hawks--TD05 -- 06 I/C -- 20mm n/a fsb -- Stage 2 -- 550's -- Perrin DIV DP -- 2-3/4 Tit Exhaust -- K&N -- C/C -- A/C Delete -- Grounded -- GT Leather Interior -- WRX/STI Strut Setup -- 17" 225's -- 2 Kids Seats ;)
The 02 and the IAC are two independent items. The IAC gets dirty sometimes and could probably just stand a good cleaning and you'd be good to go. The purge canister, well that's a common one with these cars. Personally, I wouldn't sweat it as it really only affects emmisions. But a new canister would probably clear it out. The 02, probably just needs replaced.
I'm going to assume you've already checked all the connections and made sure the plugs are nice and tight and also clean?
As far as reseting the codes, the link Glennda posted does work if you want to reset the codes and keep all your stereo settings. Personally, I used to just disconnect the battery and stand on the brake pedal for a little bit. There is a capacitor in the system that will keep codes unless you give it time, i.e. overnight, to clear or you pull it down via the brake lights. Whichever floats your boat.
I'm going to assume you've already checked all the connections and made sure the plugs are nice and tight and also clean?
As far as reseting the codes, the link Glennda posted does work if you want to reset the codes and keep all your stereo settings. Personally, I used to just disconnect the battery and stand on the brake pedal for a little bit. There is a capacitor in the system that will keep codes unless you give it time, i.e. overnight, to clear or you pull it down via the brake lights. Whichever floats your boat.
Lee
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
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I was getting a similar mix of codes after my turbo swap. The car never ran badly, but I wanted the light gone. I put in a used canister purge valve and all the codes cleared out. The light comes on from time to time lately, but it goes back off after I get into boost a bit. Engine runs rough while the light is on, but it won't stay on long enough for me to pull codes.
1989 Cherokee-lifted, locked and beat up
1991 Legacy L 5MT AWD with EJ20G swap SOLD... and rolled :(
1993 Turbo Wagon resurrected with '95 WRX guts
1991 Legacy L 5MT AWD with EJ20G swap SOLD... and rolled :(
1993 Turbo Wagon resurrected with '95 WRX guts