UHEV Legacy Version 2.0

[93forestpearl]

Thanks. That's what I was wondering or if it was coil output power also. What about iridium plugs? We used those on the serious go-fast boats to good effect. The center electrode was like a pin and we usually replaced the every year as a cash cow, but I doubt they actually needed to be replaced. I usually got the engines back up on the old plugs, and it would run fine. Big $$, though. I think we charged people $22/ea., but that could be marine markup.

About $40-50 would buy as set of iridium plugs, which would help, for sure. Derek doesn't go through plugs like that with the same ignition setup and a larger turbo.


I just knew that the car was going to be down for a long time, so I decided to make the jump. The Link makes the wiring a non-issue, so for me it was a no-brainer. If someone is still using a OEM ECU, there isn't a point to going to COP since there are only two ignition channels and you'd have to run them in a wasted spark arrangement anyways.



Granted the car ran fine when I stayed on top of the plugs, I just had to swap them out often. The 22T heads makes it easy though. I might get sick of swapping plugs that often on a dual cam motor, lol.

[93forestpearl]

Brake line fun!


It's actually not that bad with the proper tools. I had to plumb the proportioning valve before moving ahead with piping. As the valve sat in the stock position, the brake lines inhibited mounting a good sized turbo in a rotated position. Moving the proportioning valve to the front of the strut tower gives me around three inches of extra room.


I came up a little short on the last line since I was trying to use pieces from the engine bay lines from the old car. I need about two feet of line to finish it. I'll get it tomorrow.


Now I just need to figure out how to hold a 40 lb turbo in place while I plumb it. I think the engine hoist, a home made bracket, and a ratchet strap or two may be involved.



Practicing with the new inverted flaring kit...

[Legacy777]

Looks good Dan!

[Deride]

Disappointed in those pictures, no beer cans spotted. Looks great, can't wait to see the car with some paint on it!

[Grayguy]

What size are your fuel lines? -6 or -8? I need to figure out what injectors I'm running before I can figure out what I'm doing with fuel rails too.

[93forestpearl]

They are -06. There really is no need to go any larger than that. The rails are plenty large for any sidefeeds to you can find to put in them. The factory hardlines are what suck royal ass.

If you do something like this, go with Push-Lock hose. You can use steel fittings and line from Jay and it will cost less than half of using the stupid braided stuff.

Otherwise, the fuel rail adapters from Outfront Motorsports are key, as well as the Y-block, which was under $30 from anplumbing.com. You can tap the FPR end of the passenger side rail with a 1/4 NPT tap to run whatever fitting you want.

[Grayguy]

I have a set of WRX 440's in the garage, I might just use those if none of the Local Nissan guys have a set of 550's laying around. I have that set of 1/4 NPT taped rails you gave me when I was down there, pretty much any Side feeds should fit in that right?

Yeah, I still need to order the regulator and go talk to Jay, but I'll be going push lok for sure.

[93forestpearl]

SR20 injectors or the STi sidefeeds will fit those rails.

[NICO]

holy crap what a amazing job you did there on the brake lines!!!

[93forestpearl]

The turbo is clocked and together. I do not have many pictures, but clocking this turbo is quite involved. Since I'm limited by the vane system, there are only nine possible positions I can clock the turbine housing. After a lot of rigmarole, I got it together.


The vanes and unison ring were cleaned up with carb cleaner and 1500 grit paper. The turbine housing was treated the same at the vane posts and where the vanes slide.



After that was done, I had to drill and cut a new spot for the alignment pin. After double and triple checking, I drilled a hole and then cut, reamed, and filed the rest of it out like the OEM slot.


The rest is isn't too big of a deal, but lining up the pin and the arm that actuates the vanes took a few tries. Anyways, she's ready for some piping. It will be interesting when I try to hang a 45 lb turbo where I need it to plumb. I think the engine hoist and a couple ratchet straps will be in order.

[93forestpearl]

Odds and ends before I rework the pipe set.



The lame factory power steering lines are in the way of having fun, so they needed to dealt with. I still need a fitting or two, and to possibly remake the low-side line, but that's about how it'll play out. Tons more room for neat stuff. It wasn't expensive to make new lines either. I've got less than $80 into the setup. Your local Eaton/Aeroquip industrial supplier is your friend.

[kimokalihi]

Oh man, how do I get PS lines like that? Without making them since I don't know how. Just the power steering lines cost $80 to make?

[93forestpearl]

I had to weld ends onto the OEM tubing, but the rest is gravy. That line is rated to something like 8000 psi. OEM powersteering systems are typically between 1500 and 1000 psi on the high side line. I was trying to use the Eaton Versil-flare setup, but it only worked on the lower high side tube. The rest were .390" and needed to be under .380", so that's why I had to weld ends on.



Yes, industrial fluid conveyance products are much cheaper than silly race stuff. Like 1/3 to 1/4 the price.

[kimokalihi]

Well, I'm not experienced at welding and don't have a welder and have even less experience building fuel lines and such.

I'll probably just stick with the crappy stock lines that are a pain in the ass to bend properly.

[93forestpearl]

Making the lines is actually the easiest part, especially with Eaton/Aeroquip hose ends. Figuring out exactly what fittings and adapters you need without wasting a lot of money on fittings you don't need is the tough part. I had two weeks and a few trips to Power Systems before I did anything. And I still need to go back.

[07Evolved]

I agree with Kimo...I am really liking those PS lines and the fuel rail lines as well. I will really have to look into something like that for my build.

[93forestpearl]

The makings of a fuel surge tank.


After a conversation or two, and some other digging, I decided it would be a good idea to have a fuel surge tank. I happen to have some material laying around, so it shouldn't be too bad expense wise. I have some 3/16 aluminum laying around, so I'll make a tank out of that. I know its a bit overkill, but free material is free material. Also, I have some aluminum tubing here that taps out to a 3/8 NPT beautifully so that'll make my connections. I'll use hydraulic hose and steel fittings like I did with the power steering to keep the cost down.

Basically, I need a Bosch 044, some line and fittings, and to do a little welding. With the trouble Subaru's can have with fuel delivery below 1/2 tank, I think its a good idea.


Here are some materials laid out. With those pieces, the surge tank should be about 3 liters, which is plenty large.

[93forestpearl]

Pieces are cut and ready to weld, except for a little sanding yet. Once welded together, I'll pressure test the tank to find any leaks.

There are four ports on the tank. One at the bottom rear of the tank will be to the secondary pump that feeds the engine. The top port is the return to the tank. One near the top is the return from the engine, and the last port up from the bottom port is the feed from the main fuel tank. This keeps warmer fuel from the engine return near the return to the main tank. The feed from the main tank is above the engine feed to allow any air to get up to the top before the fuel makes it to the feed.

[Legacy777]

Dan,

Where are you planning on putting this surge tank?

Wouldn't it be more than a surge tank if you have a second pump in there

[93forestpearl]

Josh,


The tank will go in the trunk near the rear seat somewhere, lol. Since the trunk is currently storage I can't determine its exact placement just yet. I would like to fit my small sub box in there too, somehow....



A fuel surge tank typically has a feeder pump, and then a high pressure pump for the engine. The idea is to eliminate low pressure situations at the engine from the in-tank pump drawing air. It's not that I really need it. Its just a little added insurance for my setup, and will be good to have if I ever jump to corn with big injectors (1600cc). I'll keep it simple to start with, using the factory feed and return lines. Later, I'll go to -08 line from the pressure pump to the engine and use the factory feed for the return.

Since I already had the material, I said "why not?" We know how that can end up though, lol. At least I found a Bosch 044 for $108 shipped. I should say it better be a 044 when I get it next week.



Here are some pics from various surge tank setups I found in the NASIOC "Fuel Systems" thread, found here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... 976&page=6


Some people complain about noise from the 044 pump. However, if you look at some of these setups, they paid no mind to vibration isolation, whatsoever. Obviously a pump clamped directly to sheetmetal will be noisy. I plan to address that situation.

[Legacy777]

Definitely sounds like a cool project/idea to add. Keep us posted on how it's coming along.

[SubaruNation]

so why do subaru's have a hard time with fuel pressure?
do our cars have regulators so we can make sure they flow at a constant rate?

im asking additionally because my tuner wants my pressure set at 42psi for fuel i think..

[93forestpearl]

so why do subaru's have a hard time with fuel pressure?
do our cars have regulators so we can make sure they flow at a constant rate?

im asking additionally because my tuner wants my pressure set at 42psi for fuel i think..

You'll be fine for tuning. If you are using the stock FPR, you're set.




Subaru's don't have hard time with fuel pressure under normal circumstances. I am more concerned with high acceleration or cornering loads. Some people with high-power cars or track cars experience problems below 1/2 tank. This is because of the fuel tank design and where the pickup is.


Since I would be pushing a walbro to the max as is, the tank is a little added insurance for my setup.

[SubaruNation]

I've got the walbro and 800cc injectors and ill be tuned to like 15/16 psi for safety.

i should be alright you think?

im more excited about going more than 150 miles on a tank....

[93forestpearl]

What turbo are you running? Total fuel flow is what counts. I'll be creeping up on 4L per minute. Not many people do that on these old cars.