Multiple electrical problems.

Headlights to tailights and everything in between.

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Burnera
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Multiple electrical problems.

Post by Burnera »

I've asked a few questions and had them all answered well, Thanks!

So...


2) Speedometer is always about 5 seconds behind in time. Looks like all i need to do is replace the speedo cable.

3) All the windows and sunroof take FOREVER to operate. The sunroof is the worst. The windows act like the battery is on its way out, except the battery was just replaced. The windows take around 5 seconds to open or close.

4) The transmission takes it's damn sweet time switching from reverse to drive, or vice versa. Also, I was told to the center diff solenoid should probably be replaced.


6) the handbrake 'on' light in the gauge cluster refuses to turn off. Working the handbrake up and down does nothing.


7) If the transmission is slow to engage after being parked, the torque converter is draining down and a new cooler line with a check valve must be installed. (1990-91)

8)A clicking noise caused by the heater mode door actuator can be fixed by installing a new resistor in the wiring harness.
where is this resistor?


11) battery just dies in cold weather, after a day or two of 0*F weather, the car is lifeless. Using bottom barrel walmart batteries.
Dunno what the root cause is.


Fixed:
1) fuel gauge broken. Apparently i should start by replacing both fuel senders.
-I fixed this by replacing only the secondary sender.

5) When the Defrost is turned on, the headlights dim to about half brightness, the car shudders sometimes, and there is a weird clicking noise as if a baseball card is stuck in a fan. That clicking noise is louder when you are outside the car. I'm not sure any air actually comes out of the defrost vents, because it was extremely cold out when i discovered this problem.
-disconnected AC compressor

9) exhaust leaks, sounds like around the muffler
-muffler has fist sized hole in it. i don't care.

10) Radiator hose leak in the top one.
-replaced hose.
Last edited by Burnera on Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:46 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

#3, I've heard slow windows is a grounding issue, but others can probably chime in.

#5 is probably your AC compressor knocking. It comes on when the defrost buttons are depressed. If you don't use your AC or if it doesn't work, you can unplug the wire going to the compressor and it won't run. Otherwise, the compressor will need to be replaced and the system flushed.
Josh

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Burnera
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Post by Burnera »

Cool, i'll try unplugging the compressor then.
Uh, can you remind me where on the block it is?
It's on the passenger side isn't it?
Saskatoon Subaru
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Post by Saskatoon Subaru »

a/c compressor is top left side. you could also remove the a/c belt for the winter so you don't wear out the bearings unnecessarily.
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1991 Legacy Turbo 180,000km
wfoote
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Post by wfoote »

I don't know how wet your winters are, but the A/C will cycle with the defroster to dry the air in the passenger compartment.
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Burnera
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Post by Burnera »

The guy i bought the car from said the a/c is dead anyway.
Burnera
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Post by Burnera »

bump for review of remaining issues.
gijonas
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Post by gijonas »

To really need to start cleaning the existing grounds and start running some redundant ones.
94SS.Wiseco forged pistons,TD04,TMIC,WALBRO 225,440's,3" all the way,revtronix stage 2,enough other crap to fill the internet.

THE TRIBUTE BUILD>>>LINKY LINK>>> http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=295455#295455
RJ93SS
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Post by RJ93SS »

speedometer probably just need lube in the plastic gears it has, if not, probably the cable.

make sure to lube your window gears and tracks. as well as lube your sunroof tracks.

absolutely do the grounding mod, search it.

replace battery to starter wire, and battery ground.

go over as much wiring as you can and checked for breaks or pinched wires.

the handbrake light... check fluid levels. but your problem is probably a brake pad shim is loose on your rear. this caused mine to stay on.

check tranny and diff fliuds.
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