Coolant leak

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:57 pm

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=39123

Last update was in that thread. So I am now wondering to keep the car going till I get my water pump, and all parts to do a timing belt overhaul, can I just add Subaru Coolant Conditioner? Or it won't do anything? Any ideas?? Leak is odd, the timing covers are dry, but on the other side as you can see where the oil pan is, it is dripping from there.

SLODRIVE · Post by **SLODRIVE** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:05 am

No coolant additive will help a bad water pump, if that's what's leaking. If it comes out the weep hole (which is below the timing covers on the pass.side of the pump), that means that coolant has already made it past the pump's shaft seals, and is working on destroying the bearings.

In theory, you could just keep the coolant full and check it constantly, but there's no way to check the pump for shaft wobble without removing the timing belts. Personally, I don't fool around with this kind of thing on any motor and take care of it right away, or park it until I can.

Bdub · Post by **Bdub** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 4:50 am

That is dripping pretty bad, I honestly wouldn't drive it very far. My 95 was doing the same thing, but only at idle. I'd say it is definitely the water pump.

I just replaced my water pump, and timing belt, and all my front seals,. It cost me $200 in all genuine parts, and I did it all myself.
I'd definitely suggest doing it all at once, it took me about a week working on it around 1-2 hours a day, and I was working at a snail's pace.
But, either way, it's around a $650 job at a shop, and they don't even use genuine parts.

If you want, I will provide you with everything I bought to do it (part numbers and all)...I had to do 3 different orders because I kept forgetting to order stuff.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 4:55 am

That would be great. Only $200 though eh? That's pretty good. To be honest the leak is not very steady. It is sometimes leaking badly, and sometimes not leaking at all. Going to recheck my hoses.

Bdub · Post by **Bdub** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 5:35 am

It is tough to see where the exact source is. The weep hole is up on the inside near the wheel on the pump, and it is probably running right down the front of the water pump, and down the front near the oil pan. The timing covers have seals on the back, and they mount on top of the water pump, so it wouldn't be likely to get coolant inside of there.

Oil Pump seal-806733010
Cam Seals (2)- 806732050
Timing Belt- 13028aa102
Cam Oring- 806946030
water pump gasket- 21114aa030
waterpump- 21111aa061
Thermostat gasket- 21236aa010
timing belt cover bolts (7)- 800706950
timing cover bolts (6)- 800706930

I used numbers for a 94 ss. I replaced all the cover bolts because the other ones were basically disintegrating.
I also ended up needing a piece of the timing cover because the bolts were fused on one part, so I just ripped it off, snapping the plastic.

The cam oring is behind the camgear support, this was leaking on my car, and it's worth replacing this part while you are in there, it's another 3 bolts.

Also, I didn't replace the tensioner or any idler pulleys, the car only had 94k miles on it, so everything was in great shape. I also didn't replace the oil pump, it was still sound.
You may want to think about getting new radiator hoses and clamps. I took advantage of having everything out and replaced them. It made it much easier during removal, because I just snipped everything off.

If you don't have torque specs, you could search here, or get a service manual if you don't have one. It comes in handy during reassembly.

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:02 pm

I'd also suggest replacing the thermostat, unless you just did that.

brand · Post by **brand** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:41 pm

Thanks for the parts list... I'm getting ready to do my timing belt and a bunch of other opportunistic maintenance while I'm in there and this is very helpful.

Bdub · Post by **Bdub** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:59 pm

Legacy777 wrote:I'd also suggest replacing the thermostat, unless you just did that.

Yes, i forgot to add this as well. Mine was just replaced, so didn't have to worry about it. Use OEM!

Thermostat- 21200aa071

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:42 pm

Leak seems to come and go. Today was warmer like 40F and I only see like 1 drop. Going to put the car in the air on saturday and look closely at the hoses before jumping on the waterpump. If it is the water pump I might just have to swing only replacing the pump. Not sure I want to spend $200+ for everything. Locally I can get the OEM pump for $90 and it will come in before the weekend. I really want to address it this weekend since it will be warm, and I will be installing my gasket kit for my power steering.

Here is a good question. With the gaskets, do I apply lithium grease? and should I put lithium grease all over o-rings too?

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:40 pm

Removed one side of the timing cover. Broke two bolt things in the plastic. Anyway, this is what it looks like under there. Any usual signs if the belt is old or original? I figure the belt if replace is good for 100,000miles. Which is like 160,000km. I figure I can get by with just doing the pump and ill check the torque spec on everything else in there while I am at it.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:15 am

OK. Finalized the order. Got valve cover gasket kit, and the waterpump with gasket. $145cdn shipped. I will do a overhaul soon if some things don't look good when I remove the other covers. If it looks good, ill push it till around 250,000+ km.

Bdub · Post by **Bdub** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:20 am

I broke that plastic piece as well, they are pretty brittle.

It looks like a lot of dust inside of the covers, I'd say it hasn't been changed in some time, unless a cover was open to the elements.

I just used motor oil to put the seals in and the o-ring to help slide them in. They fit in there pretty snug, so I used some choice words on the PS and the oil pump seal. The DS cam seal is easy, you can take it out and press it in...I used a C clamp on a bench with a large socket.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:34 am

Is the dust a big deal? when I remove the belt should I clean it with water? With the parts it rides on (idlers, cam pulley w/e), should I clean them with non chlorignated brake cleaner? Then I will rinse everything out.

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:59 pm

Use motor oil on the seals and o-rings.

Regarding the timing belt, they are rate for 60,000 miles unless you get the california one which is spec'd for 100,000 miles. Can they go longer....probably....but that's a call you'll have to make.

If you had coolant or other contaminents on the belt they will decrease the life of the belt. Unless you just replaced the belt, I don't know why you wouldn't replace the belt. You've got to take it off to get at the pump.

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:22 pm

Legacy777 wrote:Unless you just replaced the belt, I don't know why you wouldn't replace the belt. You've got to take it off to get at the pump.

+1. Why wouldn't you do it? FWIW, my first legacy made it to 170K on the orig timing belt til a redline run ripped a tooth of the belt.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:50 am

Ok. You guys are 100% right. My dad said the same. Ordered this

ebay link

and, thermostat, gasket, water pump, upper and lower rad hose, and the two hoses that run along from the water pump as one of them are leaking so I figure I should replace both.

I was only able to get the new blue coolant. Subaru does not sell the green stuff anymore. Was $10 a liter. So I am now wonder what is the best way to flush out the motor ? Should I just run water, or use the freshly mixed coolant? Do I simply add it to the upper hose going to the motor and it will pour out the bottom?

Want to get this car running perfectly. So far spent lets see like $300 between belt, pump, gaskets, coolant, etc. Probably going to spend $350 total between all the gaskets and seals, and hoses.

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:18 pm

Blue coolant huh....haven't seen that stuff yet.

As for flushing, you can just use water. With the thermostat removed water will flow from the top of the engine to the bottom and flush all the old coolant out. Flush the radiator that way too. You'll make a mess with the garden hose, so do it in the driveway and not in the garage.

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:41 pm

Uhhh... we still sell green coolant. SOA868V9210. We've got 30 gallons in stock.

The blue stuff is Super Coolant. The 08+ STi requires it.

Bdub · Post by **Bdub** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:09 pm

I know my rant about OEM stuff...but I just used the Advance Auto 50/50 $8 stuff.
Good thing I did, because thats how I found out I forgot to replace the thermostat gasket...woulda sucked to see that liquid gold pouring out on the floor.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:39 am

Ok update. Replaced everything. Idlers, belt, pump, rad hoses, valve covers, got my hoses in for the valve covers, thermostat etc etc etc . Cleaned everything particularly the coolant lines. Found out what was going on overheating wise. Alot of parts in the cooling system were clogged. When I pulled the thermostat I said WTF. You will see why when I post the pics. Car is running amazing I found 2 idlers were rough and had play. Was pretty fun first timing belt change.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:52 am

beatersubi · Post by **beatersubi** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:41 am

What is that and where is it coming from?

SiCkSTi04 · Post by **SiCkSTi04** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:36 pm

WTF! is that dirt?

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 4:35 pm

I am thinking the previous owner had stop leak in the car. I flushed out all the lines like mad. Car is driving great. I still smell a bit of a oil leak. I think it was just residual oil on the bottom of the motor burning off. Next going to do all my oils. Tranny, diffs, engine. All synthetic. For the motor 10w-30 I am sure would be fine right? I am right now running non synthetic 5w-30.

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 6:08 pm

use 10w30.

The owner's manual states not to use 5w30 for prolonged high speed driving. The tolerances aren't as tight as some new engines, so I'd stick with 10w30.

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Coolant leak

Coolant leak