Doing timing belt overhaul what needs locktite?

[ericem]

What the title says. I am thinking I will put locktite on the crank pulley most definitely, but what about everything else inside there. I have the FSM for hte belt change, and water/oil pump change so has all torque specs, just wondering if EVERYTHING needs to have locktite? I am not touching my oil pump, but I will be doing my waterpump. Is 7 ft-lb's actually the torque spec for the water pump bolts? Idk why but i keep thinking that is low. Before starting the job, going to get my torque wrench checked out as well.

[green91]

I dont generally loctite anything with a timing belt job.

[ericem]

ok perfect. Just want to verify that torque spec. Suppsedely 7 ft-lbs for hte water pump bolts and 4.7 ft lbs on the oil pump? Going to be going in there making sure everything is atleast at that torque spec.

[Saskatoon Subaru]

those bolt on the water pump are quite small, they can't take very much torque

[n2x4]

Waterpump bolts are 8ft lb. Any more than that and they will break. I tried to torque one down to 10 ft.lbs once since that was the lowest my wrench would go and I snapped the bolt before I even got close...

[RJ93SS]

dont forget your dealing with aluminum

[ericem]

Definitely wont. Really need to flush out my coolant system. Was draining out the rad through the drain at the bottom, was very white at the bottom for a bit, then it started coming out nice green like it should. Might explain my car overheating alot?? I can't imagine when I pull out the the thermostat and when I start flushing out the engine and rad with distiled water. From what I can tell definitely need new cam seals. In debate on crank seals. I am thinking ill just do them anyway. This is my first timing belt job and water pump so going to be fun =D

[jp233]

I wouldnt use anything more than blue loctite on any of those bolts. I would NOT USE RED!

The crank pulley bolt, if you can torque it to about 140-150 ft lbs then I wouldn't even really bother with loctite. But then again at least that is steel on steel. Hell no on all the ones that are a steel bolt into AL.

run some coolant cleaner/flush solvent through when you do flush out the whole system.

[SLODRIVE]

Although blue Loctite isn't needed on the small bolts, it won't hurt a thing if you're using the right amount. In fact, Loctite is a pretty decent anti-seize and can help keep the bolts from galling in the aluminum. I personally don't bother, partially because I live in Colorado where corrosion isn't really a concern.

The crank bolt is a different story...I always clean it and the crank threads well and use red Loctite. Yes, RED...I have seen more than a few EJ crank bolts (and other cars) work loose that were supposedly tightened to, or beyond factory specs. I also block the flywheel and tighten the crank bolt as much as I possibly can with a breaker bar. I've never had a crank bolt loosen up this way (so far, lol), and I can still get the bolt out with a 1/2" impact wrench.

I know others may have different methods and/or results...just sharing what works for me.

[impreza_GC8]

Its ok to use it on the tensioner bolts and other hardware that is responsible for the integrity of the serpentine system, but its also ok to forget/not use it.